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Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Kelly Lee, Apr 3, 2009.
wow, that looks great. Also looks smaller than I thought it would, next to the epiphani
I would prefer to error on the side of being thorough. Ihave heard that if the stuff is not sealed and braced good, it can make the cab less effective.
I just weighed it and it is 39.0 pounds as shown.
If you use a dado blade in your tablesaw you can adjust for that. And also, you wont need a straight edge. I too am going to build it with dados, and front to back. Im also going to try and make the braces one piece each and add the uprights after.
On the website of Eminence I found these :
I thought perhaps it could be a good idea to make a closed cabinet for them in combination with a linkwitz-transform to boost the low frequencies. This would make a higher quality bassspeaker with a faster response at the bottum.
Like thisone http://www.linkwitzlab.com/thor-intro.htm
Any ideas? Good or bad?
Not a good idea IMO. You won't be able to hear if the transient response in the lows is faster or not - lows are never quick by their very nature. The reason to use a sealed box is so you can put the driver in a smaller enclosure without getting a midbass hump. A ported cab has such a large efficiency and power handling advantage in the lows vs a sealed cab that the latter only make sense for bass guitar when they're very large.
Looks nice MX. Why not just center the mid so if you add another similar cab the mids line up w/out having to manufacture the 2nd box with a reversed baffle? The 2nd cab would be stacked upside down.
Looking forward to you opinion on the sound.
Still looking sweet. Congrats!
BTW, what kind of finish are you planning for the cabinet? Carpet?
There is no such thing as 'faster' response at the bottom. Plus a Linkwitz-transform increases power demand by 12dB per octave, so what it takes 100 watts to accomplish at 100 Hz will take 1800 watts at 50 Hz. Linkwitz-transforms can be of some value for home theatre subwoofers, but not for electric bass.
This is cool. Everything seems to be coming together very well on several concurrent builds. Makes me wish I had the scratch do pull something like this off.
On a thoroughly off-topic note, my nearing-senior-citizen-age father has been bored at home in FL without the Mrs. around and has been watching old episodes of The Tick on DVD. He emailed this to me over the weekend where he turned the fE15 into Little Wooden Boy:
Refer to part I of this thread. This is not my design. This was designed by greenboy. I was just following his plans.
Edit: if you look in part I, I think he also mentioned a mirror image version specifically for stacking two of them so the mids would be aligned to each other.
I'm thinking a natural wood finish. Probably just a few coats of satin polyurethane.
Number 2 on its way:
Oh. Nice. Look forward to seing the finished result.
Did you find some way to get the drivers? You must be chomping at the bit!
BTW, how did YOU get the glue around the outside of the baffle?
Just curious, but I see no second 6" driver.
Are you planning on having two 3012LF (450w each) balancing at any appreciable power level with a single Alpha 6 (100w)?
At small signal levels, the 3012LF and Alpha 6 are an SPL match.
Doubling the 3012LF count, plus another +3dB for mutual coupling is going to put the woofers +6dB hotter than the Alpha 6.
The 6dB difference will make for a thuddy tone.
Even considering the diminishing power density in the Alpha's operating range, I question if it will survive when you crank the 3012s all the way up.
Dug dog > No, still no drivers but speaking to alexclaber about a 6nd410, and also talking to a friendly person in Canada who might be able to help me out with a pair of 3012lf.
Approached the build a bit different this time, as opposed to my first one where the front baffle was the last piece to go in (glued and screwed). For this enclosure i glued and screwed the sides to the back, then glued and screwed the port shelf and baffle to the sides, and the last pieces to go in was the top and bottom. Didn't take pictures this time, sorry.
I don't think the one way is better or necessarily more correct than the other, however it was easier to glue especially the front with the last method mentioned.
Bgavin > going to use the 6nd410. And yes, just one of them.
You know what would be cool MX is a triburst custom finish, then satin poly it.
Or a flame job!