1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
     
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

fEarful™ 12/6 & 15/6 enclosure designs - FREE! (Part VI: Electric Boogaloo)

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Barcode, Mar 17, 2010.


Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. rpsands

    rpsands

    Jul 6, 2007
    Phoenix, AZ
    If you're gonna run a headcase and a 15 sub you should probably just use the stock 15 crossover and put it in the headcase, but wire the W+/W- to a "Woofer out" jack on the headcase and then connect that off the headcase to the 15 sub.

    Or you could do the reverse and do a "HF out" from the sub :)

    I think the woofer only section for the 15 sub would be run when you were adding the 15 sub to a an existing cab.
     
  2. Barcode

    Barcode

    Feb 22, 2010
    You can always try the low pass section of the 15/6 crossover, that's what I'm about to do. The 12sub has the same part values as the 12/6 low pass, so i figure it ought to work out.
     
  3. Foz

    Foz

    Jul 26, 2008
    Jax FL USA
    On the truck... my Vlad335 15/6. And I just got my 800RB back from GK - still looks beat to hell but its got all new guts and damned if I didn't forget how much the amp kicks ass. Can't wait to hook up to the Vlad-Cab.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Halvorsen

    Halvorsen

    Mar 7, 2008
    Vermont
    Would you guys recommend going with a tweeter on the 15/15/6/6 for rock styles and heavier music? I don't do any slap. What is the high end roll off of the 6's?
     
  5. rpsands

    rpsands

    Jul 6, 2007
    Phoenix, AZ
    My rec: Always get a horn and always put it on an on/off switch unless you are absolutely certain you would never want to use it (100%) or that you will never sell the cabinet. The horn is very cheap to add and provides a lot of flexibility.

    The 6's seem to be about done by 5khz or so.
     
  6. Dizzy_G

    Dizzy_G

    Oct 15, 2008
    Hi all,

    I figured I would share this for anyone who may be interested, it is a metric cutlist i used for a 12/6 with dado joints on all parts along with cross lapped joints on the braces.
    All dados are based on 12mm ply not 12.7mm. (My birch measures an average of 11.89mm, if yours is 12.7mm this may not be 100% correct) all dado's are 3mm deep.
    The main panels are cut to the exact length, the side braces will need some trimming, I left them extend fully to the shelf but that is an easy fix. The braces may appear long but this is to accommodate cross lapped joints for extra rigidity, hopefully.
    Also the front stand off's are left long for easy adjustment, I'm not 100% sure if I will use these so each to their own.
    I will try and upload a few screen shots of the model I used also to better explain the dado's.

    Hope this helps someone. My cut parts have matched up well so please don't flame if there is a problem, as always measure twice, cut once. :D
    D_G
     

    Attached Files:

  7. 4Mal

    4Mal Supporting Member

    Jun 2, 2002
    Columbia River Gorge

    Funny - I seem to have a short baffle board today... No matter how many times I cut the damned thing - it's still short! and of course my wood supplier is closed Sundays ... If it were the back I'd think about a trip to Home Depot... cr@p ...
     
  8. davio

    davio

    Nov 2, 2006
    Boston, MA
    Question for experienced builders: how much of a roundover is usually necessary for those interlocking black plastic corner pieces?
     
  9. BurningSkies

    BurningSkies CRAZY BALDHEAD

    Feb 20, 2005
    Seweracuse, NY
    IIRC 1/4"
     
  10. davio

    davio

    Nov 2, 2006
    Boston, MA
    Crap. I have a plunge router base for my Dremel but if I have to go bigger than 1/8" it means I have to buy or borrow a real router.
     
  11. rpsands

    rpsands

    Jul 6, 2007
    Phoenix, AZ
    Wood rasp time!
     
  12. BurningSkies

    BurningSkies CRAZY BALDHEAD

    Feb 20, 2005
    Seweracuse, NY
    If you dig through either thread 3 or 4 (late summer last year) I posted the same question so that I could do mine correctly. For me a year is a long time, so it might be worth checking. I know that GB does them by hand and just in the corners...
     
  13. 4Mal

    4Mal Supporting Member

    Jun 2, 2002
    Columbia River Gorge
    get the router... I've been looking on CL today for a backup to my Bosch. $75 to a hun will get you a really good router.
     
  14. Swift713

    Swift713

    Dec 4, 2006
    Florence, Ma
    I use a Porter Cable laminate trimmer for hand held routing. It's easy to grab with one hand. You don't want to do huge cuts with it but a little roundover is fine.
     
  15. davio

    davio

    Nov 2, 2006
    Boston, MA
    Thanks for the help, guys! I'll search back through the threads as well as start watching CL.
     
  16. BurningSkies

    BurningSkies CRAZY BALDHEAD

    Feb 20, 2005
    Seweracuse, NY
    I'll go through my email at work tomorrow if I get a chance and see if I have it in there too.
     
  17. If I'm not mistaken, most corner protector listings will include the necessary round over specs......
     
  18. Swift713

    Swift713

    Dec 4, 2006
    Florence, Ma
    You can also whittle down the corners with a utility knife, or take them down with a block plane, rasp or sandpaper. You don't need to remove much to get those corners to sit nice.
     
  19. Bjazzman

    Bjazzman

    Dec 7, 2004
    Madison WI
    considering a fearb to be made. but a couple of questions:

    can i pair this with a 4 ohm dr bass 1580? and if i did this can i modify the dimensions so it will fit on the bottom?

    also, if i don't play loud but want to utilize the low end of the fearb, would i be just as well off with a 15/6 if i still want lower frequencies but don't play really loud. So basically can i feel the bass at lower volumes?

    thanks
     
  20. rpsands

    rpsands

    Jul 6, 2007
    Phoenix, AZ
    It depends on what tuning you're using (e.g. are you expecting a loud F#0 or just B0?).

    I wouldn't pair with the 1580; the 8" driver and the high crossover point will screw with your mids and the small box and insufficient port area will screw with your lows. I'd build a 15/6 or fEarb and then when you like it twice as much as the 1580, sell the 1580 and build another :)
     



Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.