fEarful 15/6/1 build diary... all comments, feedback, comradery welcome.

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by mistermikev, Jul 13, 2020.

  1. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    So... bought a fEarful 15/15/6/6 cab on craigslist and really like it. I have a stereo setup for my bass - so wanted to scavenge the speakers and build two 15/6/1 cabs to house them. Hope you find something amusing or useful here!

    here's a shot of the cab I bought...

    here are the speakers:

    was going to go the flat pack rout... but my local spot had lovely 5' x 5' sheets of 3/4 12 ply baltic birch with some mild figure... so couldn't pass that up.

    here's a shot of one of the panels. as with all things I do... I do it the hard way... slow going using a router to put a 3/4" dado the length of the sheet... then follow with a jig saw, then clean up both edges with a router. does leave a nice clean straight cut.

    few more closeups of the panels... DSCN4396.JPG

    placed an order for all the parts for some crossovers... I've got some lovely black fiberglass 6x8" 2 ounce copper clad so... gonna etch my own pcbs. Will have to make up a layout over the next few weeks.

    since I'm using 3/4... and since I plan to do all dado/rabbet joints... I made up a little plan for my panels and how to get them out of a 5x5 sheet:

    I plan to do a 1 1/4" flamed maple frame at the front... so I've reminded myself here in parenthesis to cut the sides/top/bot 1" short. Taking into consideration the actual 11/16 thickness of the baltic birch... planning to use 3/4" x 1.5" hardwood stock for the supports... and keeping the sm volume inside the box... I'll come out with a box that is 1/2" wider and taller than the original. will gain an extra 1/16" on all sides inside for volume, but will lose 3/16" at the shelf for thickness... and of course the supports. since I'm not seeing at least one odd dimensions on the original plan I guestimate it should be a "close 'nuff" afa volume.

    few more shots of the sheets...

    these sheets are clear coated and originally was thinking it'd be great to save me time... but now I can't help but think how cool it would be to sand them down and do some contrast dye/sandback to really bring out the figure... esp since the clear coat is not durable at all. that's ok... save me from myself and a shyte load of work! DSCN4404.JPG
    flatwound251, aldaa, wcriley and 2 others like this.
  2. Definitely interested to see where this goes.
    mistermikev likes this.
  3. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    well thanks for the response. Was looking at the crossovers this morning... thinking about what kind of connectors I want to use and what type of pcb standoffs might be worthwhile. Anywho... long way to go so plenty of time to think it thru.
    Josh Pelican likes this.
  4. Balog


    Mar 19, 2009
    Everett, WA
    What mid drivers does the 66 have, and are you going to use them? I believe that different mid drivers change the parameters for the mids.

    Also, that's some nice looking wood. What are you thinking for a grill? Cloth or a metal screen?
    mistermikev likes this.
  5. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    thank you for the reply.
    mids are 18sound 6ND410 -yes was planning on using them. the 15/6/1 tube layout lists either and the schem for cbg crossover lists the nd specifically... do the NM use diff values there? just hope speakerhardware.com sends me those values! (I'm sure they will but am thinking I might want to shoot an email)

    thank you re the wood. I'm doing "bug eye's" for grills so I can show off more of the wood. as mentioned I'm doing 3/8" dado joints everywhere and plan to do a 3/8" chamfer at the edges so that will be the only place the plys are visible... I intend to clear my front frame, tape everything off, and do the chamfer... then use black dye on just the chamfer for a nice detail.
    Passinwind likes this.
  6. Balog


    Mar 19, 2009
    Everett, WA
    Nice! That'll look really good.

    As far as the mids, there are several different acceptable drivers and crossovers and honestly I don't remember how they all play together. Leland is great though, so if you tell him what xover you want and what drivers you have he'll steer you right.
    mistermikev likes this.
  7. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    thanks, I hope so! I have some maple/walnut rack cases w sm motif so it'll be nice if it matches somewhat.

    idk if he(leland) normally sends the exact values from the fEarful site schem... but I shot an email off just to ask - thanks for the heads up.
  8. Helluva weight penalty for your furniture grade finish!
    mistermikev likes this.
  9. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    well... it s/b 1.37 times the weight. so if a typical 15/6 tube cab weighs 52lbs (according to greenboy) this should weigh somewhere around 71lbs. That will still be lighter than the gk 410 I have now.
    That said... If I wanted a rig to play out I would buy one - I sure wouldn't put the effort in to building it just to have it get all mashed up at shows.
  10. Killing Floor

    Killing Floor Supporting Member

    Feb 7, 2020
    Austin, TX
    Couple observations:
    That looks really loud.
    It will be really loud in stereo when you're done.

    Good luck. It's gonna rock.
    mistermikev likes this.
  11. seamonkey


    Aug 6, 2004
    The ply looks great. It's going to be a showcase project when done, both sound and visual!
    mistermikev likes this.
  12. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    thanks for the reply! well, I'm really going to be under powering it with just 60 watts per side tube... so I'm guessing that will barely be breaking a sweat for it... but plenty loud in a 12x14 room! If it sounds anything like the 15/15/6/6 I'm gonna love it!

    thank you sir! I hope so! At the least it's going to be a fun build and def prettier than the typical speaker boxes anyway!
  13. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    so got some work done this week despite surgery for a cracked tooth on friday... I'll spare you those gory details but was avoiding the pain meds so I could work with power tools... you know... like a MAN!
    anywho, got my pile of sides cut up:

    got some roxel safe n sound while I was at the hardware store...

    and some polyfil, some handles... other misc crap...
    decided it'd be smart to do a template for my speaker cutouts since it would help prevent more scratches... so I spent $8 on a 3/4 x 24 x 24 and did a 1/2" rabbet in it, then followed with my jigsaw...
    then cleaned it up with a pattern bit...
    unfortunately the 2 7/8" radius called for by the mids is going to require some ingenuity since the pilot hole would be right at my base... may have to just drive a nail into the template and drill a hole in the circle jig.

    that's all I got few now!

    Attached Files:

  14. Redbrangus

    Redbrangus Supporting Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    Under The X In Texas
    You could use your home-made trammel-point to cut a larger circular hole in a piece of scrap material that the router BASE can travel inside of. So the template hole would be the diameter of the new desired hole plus one-half the diameter of the router base minus one-half the diameter of the cutting bit. Or something like that...still working on my first cup of coffee, but I think you can get the idea. It's a bit of work, plus the additional cost of the material (it doesn't have to be 3/4" -- 1/2" is plenty), but it's one way to get a perfectly cut circle with what you have. Nice going, so far.
    mistermikev likes this.
  15. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    well that's a solid idea... but I already cut it last night. I just drilled through the bottom of the piece into the circle template. The screw bottomed out at the router base, but was plenty to hold it while the router cut the channel.
    again, good idea tho... something to keep in mind for future use.
    thank you re nice going.
    Redbrangus likes this.
  16. Redbrangus

    Redbrangus Supporting Member

    Nov 19, 2018
    Under The X In Texas
    FYI: This company, Jasper Tools makes a line of circle-cutting jigs that are a bit pricey, but are a pretty handy thing for a DIY cab builder to have. You're pretty much always going to need to cut some nice circular holes if you build much of anything in the way of a speaker system. You can order directly from the manufacturer (they recommend emailing them for an overseas order), or other retailers in the US stock the more common ones. Amazon has some of them, I think. I say they're pricey, but they're still less than $50. There's absolutely nothing wrong with your home-brew trammel-point, of course. And that's really the right solution for large-diameter circles.
    mistermikev likes this.
  17. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    right on. I've actually looked at a number of them and considered it... but I rarely build speaker cabs and they only go out to some 20".
    I do reg use the diy circle jig for radius top guitars... but was thinking that the next time I do that, I'll just do a bunch of different arcs and save them for later.
    Redbrangus likes this.
  18. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    laid out all my rabits/dados/grooves...
    and commenced to cuttin'.
  19. Vintage-Blue

    Vintage-Blue Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 13, 2008
    Cincinnati, OH
    Owner, Vintage Blue (repro cabinets)
    First of all, I like your approach to routing the dadoes and rabbets. I have used a similar technique but with my palm router and template (top bearing) bits. The advantage is that I do not have to allow for an offset when placing my straight edge - I just line it up where I want the cut to be and start routing. There are a few downsides though. First, I'm limited to using 1/4" shank bits, which I'm not crazy about in this application. Second, shallow dadoes/rabbets can sometimes be a problem due to the length of the bit's cutting edges, the thickness of the straightedge, etc. Overall I think I like your approach better.

    I've got a couple questions about the base on your router. Do you have different bases for different diameter bits? I was thinking that would allow you to size them to always have the same offset. Second, do the angles on each end of your base have any significance or is that just what you had available for making your base?

    Good luck with your build, it should turn out nice.
    mistermikev likes this.
  20. mistermikev


    Nov 3, 2015
    right on... thank you for the reply.
    I could totally run the router on top of my straight edge and use a bearing... but you still have to make sure the straight edge is aligned exactly where you want it. Also, that means I have to be more careful of my clamp placement as the router will run into them... and I find it's just easier to be able to see the edges of the actual bit right on the piece. Also as you mentioned... you have to use a shallow bit, and this bit happens to be exactly 3/4"(perfect dado size)... but is 2" long so... making due with what I got. The edge of the bit is exactly 3.5" from the edge of the plexi so... pretty easy to align.
    the plexi... I've got a number of dif plexi bases I've made... this one is lexan. The angles are just because I rotated the plastic to get more width because I use this to to headstock angles and my jig for that has a wide opening. so rotated the plastic but then had these big corners that were getting in the way so cut em off.
    as it were... I just bought a chunk of 1/2 plexi and will be replacing this one... it bends too easily.
    I like a big plexi base because I do a lot of thinline guitars and the plexi keeps all the debri in the cavity and lets me see what i'm doing. also, with a circular base... sometimes you get a little inconsistency from the fact that the router might not be tightened in the exact parallel spot... so rotating a circular base will give you a different cut.
    sorry for rambling!
    Vintage-Blue likes this.

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