Feedback from amp and stripped screws!

I thought ampeg amps have very good warrenties, shouldn't it still be under warrenty if you only had it for a year?

 

The tubes themselves usually have only a 90 or so day warranty, cause they're likely to crap out sooner or later.

 

Are you saying that you have a two-space rack drawer that is stuck in the rack case because of a stripped screw? If so, you should be able to get the screw out if you push real hard on the back of the drawer (pushing it towards the front of the rack) *while* you are turning the stripped screw with a screwdriver. That will push against the head of the screw and force the good threads to engage the captive nut, and the screw will begin to come out normally. Just keep pushing until you are home free. This has worked for me many times. Good luck!

Nightbass

 

If ^^^ doesn't work, you could try...

Pulling the end of the screw out as far as you can, and cutting it with a bolt cutter.

 

*lame-o response GO!*

I recently saw a comercial on T.V. for a new craftsman tool, that's designed to get screws that are stripped at the head, out.
You could check out your local Sears store.

*lame-o response STOP!*

 

I second the dremel. I have gotten many stripped screws out this way. Always works. Hope theres enough room to fit it in there.

 

I'm certainly not a hardware expert. However, I'm fairly sure there's different grades of screws.

 

I ALWAYS use 10-32 Allen head bolts in a rack-mount. Much more durable and harder to strip. Plus, in the unfortunate instance where one does strip, there's a much better surface for gripping with the vise-grips

-robert

 

Hey Angus,
As rllefebv said, alllen (hex) head screws are the best for not stripping. I've been putting together and taking apart racks (pro audio) for 10 years and I've tried everything. Philips - terrible, Flat -worse, Robertson (square)-better but not great. The hex head ones strip far less, and like rllefebv said as well, if they do strip, there's a lot more to grab with your vise grips. If you can't get it out, try using a 1/8 or 3/16 hardened drill bit to drill through the center of the screw. It's a bit tricky, but it will work.

PS. It's probably not the preamp tubes, they should last for years (I've got a '76 SVT with the original preamp tubes), unless the amp got a good jolt (ie dropped) when they were hot.

 

I build lots of racks as an audio visual installer. The suggestion about drilling through the screw heads is a pain in the butt, but it's one I've had to resort to before. It works.

In the future, whatever kind of rack screws you choose, use FOUR of them in each peice of gear. Get some of the nylon rack washers if the screws don't come with them. ALWAYS use the washers. It'll make it easier to get stuff out of the rack, as well as protect the face of your gear from scratches. Don't overtighten the screws. The gear is not going to jump out of your rack. I see that a lot. People go crazy with screwguns. Even if the clutch on the drill is set very low, if it's turning full speed when it gets to the end, it will most likely be too tight. I prefer to put them in with a screwdriver.

 

I just skimmed through this thread, so it may have been posted already, but you can get some "left-handed" drill bits (you may be able to purchase a single bit as well, rather than a whole set), put them in a drill, switch it to "reverse" and drill the screw heads. The bit should catch on the head and turn it right out. When you put the new screws in, put a dab of Locktite on the threads, or use a drop of clear nail polish and then screw them in just until they are snug. My dad always says, "There's snug and then there's broken." Oh yeah, as was already said, use a washer. Good luck.