File the saddle, or shim? (no truss rod, graphite neck)

shim, no need for butchery. you can always remove a shim, the filing.....not so much

 

+1 on shim, easy to do and to remove.

 

Set your witness points. It appears you've got a lazy loop as the string passes over the steel bridge insert / saddle. I have the same saddle assembly on my Schack 5...maybe it's a German thing. I vote for the shim based sole on reversibility. If I understand correctly, if you do decide to re-cut the saddle slots, aim for a "V" shape...I don't recall the rationale.

Riis

 

i have no idea what you mean by this.

if you mean the ends opposite the ball ends, they should be cut to length and stuffed down into the holes in the middle of the tuner posts.

 

I kinda suspect it's either headless (...I see bridge-mounted micrometer tuners) or has the faux headstock clamping thingy. IIRC, you stick the string end thru a clamping channel, tighten down with what appears to be a tuner but isn't, then trim the string.

Riis

 

d'oh!

yep, i see that now.

 

I harbor a sincere dislike for any headless system that relies almost solely on a clamp for string retention. For the most part, it's a great workable idea but engineered poorly with regards to string structure....there are exceptions. The clamp has the potential, as you've already witnessed, to deform the outer wrap which, in turn, causes it to separate from the core wire resulting in failure of the entire string assembly. As I understand it, a hex core string may be slightly more forgiving as the angular structure provides greater "bite" or purchase for the surrounding wraps. Here are my favorites:

*Zon Vinny (can't recall the hardware manufacturer at the moment): string retainer involves the strings bent at right angles, retaining hex screws, and a primary set of clamping bars. Very secure with virtually no string compromise.

*Kubicki Ex Factor: Angled string retainer slots (w/ brass inserts) drilled directly into the headstock face. Hey, fair is fair...Kubicki used conventional strings installed backwards. Not a practical approach as you're working with a composite neck and restricted by the fixed length of available double ball-end sets.

*David King: Interesting approach as he learned early on that the fault prevailed. He sells brass cauls of varying gauges / diameters which can be inserted between the clamping screws and string body itself. This more evenly distributes the downward force on the string instead of focusing on a narrow vulnerable footprint.

Riis

 

i had a similar problem and opted for a shim AND filing the saddles. like you said,.. if you file a little too much, simply adjust the set screws. just make sure to keep the slot tight or the string will wiggle and buzz. gl.

NOTE: the last time i suggested to someone to file the bottom or slot of the saddle, i got gang-banged by TB's finest. the funny thing is after the mob died down i received several PM's asking how to do it! i used a Dremel and a very steady hand.

 

Or, you can file the bottom of the saddle, and leave the slot alone, then adjust as needed.

 

...or re-set the witness points and he may not have to do a d&*% thing.

Riis