Filling edge defect: epoxy/dust or CA/dust?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by JSC, Mar 19, 2018.

  1. JSC


    Mar 25, 2016

    Using scavenged wood (so "get some better wood" is not an option), what's your experience with filling gaps/defects in hardwood at the edge?

    I've filled defects in turned pieces with matching wood dust and CA glue (I run away before the fumes start!) and I've done inlay with epoxy mixed with contrasting wood dust and all sorts of other things for decoration.

    But, I've never had to fill anything that's going to be at the edge of the piece. Web opinions that I've looked up are all over the place, but I'd like to hear from some actual experience. What would be likely to wear better? Right now I'm thinking the epoxy.
  2. I try to use carved pieces/splinters of wood from the same type and glue them in with CA paying attention to grain orientation. It's a bit more work than mixing glue and sawdust, but I think it looks better. On very thin gaps between laminate layers I've used CA mixed with sawdust, but only in small gaps. I found it works best if I push glue into the gap, then push sawdust in and repeat until the gap is full. I've never had much luck with creating a paste, it just doesn't fill in as well as doing them separately.
    b3e likes this.
  3. JSC


    Mar 25, 2016
    Gluing in pieces to match- that's a thinker, I've never tried that. I'll play with a scrap and see if I can pull it off. Thx.

    I've never used paste for CA repair, only for contrasting inlay with epoxy. With CA for gouges I've done the opposite of your way- pack in abt 1/8" of dust, then drip CA on it, run away, come back when it's safe to breathe again and repeat until the gap is slightly over full.
    Jisch likes this.
  4. b3e


    Sep 5, 2017
    Warsaw, Poland
    I would recommend the same method as @Jisch, the trick is to really look at the grain orientation, not just colour and pattern, as the wood will reflect light under the finish at the same angle if done properly.
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