Dismiss Notice

Psst... Ready to join TalkBass and start posting, make new friends, sell your gear, and more?  Register your free account in 30 seconds.

Filling old pup cavities

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by MAGUS®, Feb 25, 2005.


  1. MAGUS®

    MAGUS®

    Dec 23, 2004
    UK
    What is the best material to fill a pup cavity ? I have a MIJ F/Jazz bass with standard pups, and will be fitting an MM Nord 4.3 at some point, just that 1 pup, and it looks like it will have to be placed somewhere between the 2 old pups.
    This means filling the cavities when they're removed

    Pic of bass and pups

    [​IMG]
     
  2. MAGUS®

    MAGUS®

    Dec 23, 2004
    UK
    ...er, i get the feeling this may have been a dumb question :help:
     
  3. Selta

    Selta

    Feb 6, 2002
    Pacific Northwet
    Total fanboi of: Fractal Audio, AudiKinesis Cabs, Dingwall basses
    I did something like that once, except it was soapbars. What I did was just kept the covers, and put them in the holes :smug:. Worked quiet well, and you can paint them to match, and you can hardly tell the difference. You'll just have to worry about your pickguard - may want to buy a new one and have it cover the 1st one, then a cover in the 2nd one? Just a suggestion :).

    Ray
     
  4. PasdaBeer

    PasdaBeer

    Nov 2, 2002
    Santa Rosa California
    SandStorm Designs
    since its painted its easyer..

    personly, i would just replace the pickguard for the front pup cover up.

    the rear...i route the shape out to a nice easy to match up shape, then make a plug for it basicly, then just repaint it.
     
  5. MAGUS®

    MAGUS®

    Dec 23, 2004
    UK
    Good advice guys - thanks.
     
  6. It seems to me that the amount of filler (whatever it may be) would have a negative effect on the resonance of the wood. I can't imagine that vibrations will carry well through putty, although epoxy might be ok.
     
  7. MAGUS®

    MAGUS®

    Dec 23, 2004
    UK
    Good point.

    The reason for all this was the fact that i only wanted 1 pup, but to save the body from being filled with gloop or whatever, i have had a better idea.

    Put the MM where the bridge S/C is, and route a little bit more out to take the size of an MM, then fit an Active in the Neck pup cavity.
    Then we have the best of both worlds. A bass with 1 passive pup and 1 active pup.

    Bingo
     
  8. PasdaBeer

    PasdaBeer

    Nov 2, 2002
    Santa Rosa California
    SandStorm Designs
    use as little to no filler.

    make plugs from wood, use saw dust and woodglue for any putty jobs you need, and just be carefull!

    also, passive and active pups run at diffrent ratings, you would have to use some sort of buffer to make it work right, or some sort of selector ( front on, rear on, no mixed ) and be ready for one to be very loud.

    zac-
     
  9. teej

    teej

    Aug 19, 2004
    Sheffield, AL 35660
    Cut out blocks off wood and glue them in. That's the only thing I can think of.
     
  10. Skorzen

    Skorzen

    Mar 15, 2002
    Springfield MA
    another more expensive option would be to get a body from warmoth with just the mm cavity. Then you would have the option of going back to origional if you wanted to.
     
  11. elwood

    elwood there is no spoo

    Jul 25, 2001
    Mid-Hudson Valley, NY
    If you use wood plugs and paint over, there will be a slight line regardless of how well you do the job, because of wood expansion.

    I had this done professionally when I went from p/j configuration to dual soapbars and had to plug part of the p hole. The luthier explained this would be the case before we went forward. I refinished the piece with nitro lacquer. There is a slight line at the edges of the plug.
     
  12. MAGUS®

    MAGUS®

    Dec 23, 2004
    UK
    Thas something that slipped my mind - and going by the general consensus, i think i may well leave this alone.

    Perhaps i should just upgrade both pups and fit the onboard pre with a passive / active switch.
     
  13. elwood

    elwood there is no spoo

    Jul 25, 2001
    Mid-Hudson Valley, NY
    I had an exercise trying to turn a sow's ear into a silk purse. I wanted a fretless, and really liked the way my BB5000A played, so I started the Neverending Project. All in all, I ended up replacing all the electronics, routing the NT body for new pickups and plugging a hole as mentioned, replaced the preamp, knobs, pulled the frets, refinished the entire instrument and did a superglue finish on the fingerboard.

    At the end of the day, I spent as much as it would have cost to simply buy a fretless instrument that would have been professionally crafted. Of course, I would have missed out on all the fun I had doing all this, and the new bass wouldn't have had my "special touch", which I don't think would have been a bad thing. My conclusion is, an instrument "is what it is", and if you don't like it, go find what you really want and buy it. I don't mean that about Fedners that have a lot of upgrade options that drop in. But when you have to get the router out, methinks you'd best rethink the project. And if you really want the experience of doing an instrument yourself, check out Warmoth.
     
  14. MAGUS®

    MAGUS®

    Dec 23, 2004
    UK
    Wise words pal.

    I was only considering all this grief because the bass was cheap. I know in the depths of my mind that this will be a hillclimb, and i may now just stick to an upgrade. I have found an OBP-3 for $80 ( £40 uk ) and so i should be looking at the PUP FAQs here and see what Jazz pup ugrades i could do.

    I'm a punchy but clean kinda guy :smug:

    No dirty growling for me
     
  15. xbradx

    xbradx

    Oct 25, 2004
    Indianapolis, IN
    +1
    since the bridge p/u on your bass looks to be in the "70's" position, it's only what, 1/4-1/2 closer to the bridge than what a musicman p/u would be. so you could just route out a small chunk on the neck side of the bridge p/u route, fit in your MM, and you may have to cut out a small piece of the pickguard to fit around the new pickup, but with your current bridge p/u position it shouldn't be much at all. and if you still want the neck p/u(for that Lakland feel), get a p/u that'll be close to your musicman repalcement and wire in a s/p/single switch for the musicman. or as already mentioned, just leave the neck p/u in(not wired).
     
  16. teej

    teej

    Aug 19, 2004
    Sheffield, AL 35660
    Cheap bass with MM pup? OLP (budget MusicMan) makes a 4 and 5-string bass with a single MM pup, and it's very affordable.