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Fingerboard radius block!

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Hookha, Apr 18, 2006.


  1. Hookha

    Hookha

    Nov 6, 2005
  2. Linas

    Linas

    Jan 6, 2005
    Chicago
    the shorter, is meant for spot radiusing, the longer would be more for doing the entire board. Radius is personal preference, some like theirs flat others like theirs no so flat.
     
  3. MikeBass

    MikeBass Supporting Member

    Nov 4, 2003
    Royal, Oak, MI.

    The 4" is mainly used for "spot" leveling. While the longer (8") is used for truing the whole fingerboard.
     
  4. Hookha

    Hookha

    Nov 6, 2005
    so I need both of them?
    and which one from every kind (the shorter and the longer..)
     
  5. 4" and 8" refer to the length of the block, and not the radius or width. you need a block with a RADIUS of 16 to 20 inch to do bass necks,. though some people prefer (and it works just as well) a perfectly flat fingerboard...
     
  6. Hookha

    Hookha

    Nov 6, 2005
    hoo
    so I need the 4" or the 8"???
     
  7. go for the 8" long one as it will give you a more uniform sanding jo, if you do need a smaller block for uneven spots just cut a bit of the end
     
  8. gfried84

    gfried84 Commercial User

    May 7, 2005
    Owner Fried Guitars Inc.
    go for the 12" and 16" for a compound radius. that way you'll have some options also.
     
  9. bassmentguy

    bassmentguy

    May 15, 2005
    The radius you want all depends on what the bass is to be used for. If your going for faster fusion with low action your going to want to go with a larger, flatter radius (about 16" to 20"). If your planning and doing slapping at all your going to want to go with a smaller more arched radius and higher action ( 10" -12"). the Ernie Ball stingray is an extremely comfortable bass and has an 11" radius. on double basses there is an extreme arch giving each string its own plane with quite a bit of clearance from the planes of the adjacent strings so that when the bow is dragged across a string it doesn't accidentally make contact with the other strings. the principle also works the same for slapping. Having that arch there allows slap players to enjoy tighter string spacing without unintentionally sounding extra strings. Just consider exactly what it is that you are wanting out of the instrument and build it accordingly, and remember that different things compliment different styles.
     

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