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Fingerboards with no radius

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by Peter Parker, Mar 26, 2004.

  1. Peter Parker

    Peter Parker Banned

    Jun 10, 2001
    Uh... yeah 16" not degree, sorry for the brainless typing.

    Thanks to everyone for the participation. I think I will go flat who knows, I may never go back ;)


    Jun 1, 2003
    Orlando, FL
    how would scalloping the wood out help anything? the frets would still be the same radius, no?
  3. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    Yup, scalloping and radiusing (concave or convex) are different, unrelated characteristics of the fretboard. You can do either without the other, or neither, or both. Each affects a different set of dimensions.

    On the other hand, the effect of a scalloped fretboard is the exact opposite of what Nordstrand, Dingwall, and maybe others are achieving by using "banjo" or "mandolin" frets. In the first case you're maximizing the distance from the crown of the fret to the "base level" of wood of the fretboard; in the other you're minimizing it.
  4. Suburban


    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    R500mm=flat? Come on, JP! :D

    around R800 (31.5") it will start to feel flat, but not before you strike R1000 (40") you will loose the radius feeling.

    Yeah, those smaller frets is like building a fretless, but with frets! :D Sort of coward, don't you think? :D :bag:
  5. JP Basses

    JP Basses

    Mar 22, 2002
    Paris FRANCE

    Only flat is flat for me but in the bass world, I think we can admit a 18" or 20" is pretty flat :D

  6. Suburban


    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    Ah, laws of relativity always show to be relative to some unexpected relation.
    Where is Albert when you need him, anyway?:help:

    Seriously: OK, you're right, JP. I'll go back to my basket. :crying:

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