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First Post - OR - Ampeg 810E Restoration (you pick)

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by _daniel_, Mar 29, 2009.


  1. _daniel_

    _daniel_

    Mar 29, 2009
    Columbus Indiana
    Hey All!

    I was trying to find some information about a project I am starting using an 810E I just bought off of a kid in Louisville.

    Feel free to direct me to the appropriate section of the forums to read about cab repair as I don't know my way around yet.

    I joined this forum because I was redirected to it several times from Google and I thought the answers from the community here seemed very supportive and informed. I even got answers to some of my initial questions (like, Is this sane?).

    I've already bought some parts from Fliptop and plan on using that resource as much as I can (it helps that they have really great pricing/shipping on their items IMHO).

    I've been playing bass for 8 years, but this is the first time I've re-finished a cab... It's amazing how much you don't know until you try something.

    Time to go remove some nasty tolex with a heat gun!

    Thanks for the read and any kind words,

    ~daniel

    PS - mods/admin if I've posted this in an entirely inappropriate place feel free to move it :D
     
  2. JimmyM

    JimmyM Supporting Member

    Apr 11, 2005
    Apopka, FL
    Endorsing: Ampeg Amps, EMG Pickups
  3. r379

    r379

    Jul 28, 2004
    Dallas, Texas
    Welcome to TB. You'll find lots of good info here and plenty of helpful folks.
     
  4. _daniel_

    _daniel_

    Mar 29, 2009
    Columbus Indiana
    Hey all,

    Got all the tolex removed. Took a couple hours and lots of pulling, but now I have a naked cab. For reasons of convenience I reinstalled the casters and the "towel rack."

    For the next stage I am going to be removing the glue from the cab. I think I am going to fab up a cardboard speaker cover and tape it into place to keep everything safe on that end. It is going to be a very stinky and chemically gross process so I am going to move the beast up stairs and out to the carport.

    I think I may get the kick plate RinoLiner'd for grins. It is going to need media/sand blasted anyway as there was some rust beginning to form on a part where it was hit on something very hard in the past.

    My parts list right now looks something like this:
    Corners
    Tolex
    Glue
    Adhesive remover
    Casters (or just new wheels/bearings)
    Caster hardware
    Grill Cloth

    I think I want to do White Tolex and Oxblood Grill cloth with black piping -- sort of like the Aguilar stack I like but at less than 1/2 the cost. ;)

    I'll post pictures on Myspace and include a link in a bit when I get them uploaded.
     
  5. Dude, I've been looking all over Louisville for a used 810. Even craigslist has been no help.

    Good luck with the project.
     
  6. _daniel_

    _daniel_

    Mar 29, 2009
    Columbus Indiana
    Hey bro, I got this one from CL. I live in Columbus Indiana and I know there is a guy trying to sell one up in Indianapolis for $700. I made an offer to him but he didn't respond, so I drove down to Louisville and picked this one up.

    ***********************************************

    Some pictures are now available HERE!!

    Click on the profile picture and you will be directed to the pictures of the cab.

    Time to see who is selling white tolex (and see if anyone wants to give me a shoe polish endorsement).
     
  7. _daniel_

    _daniel_

    Mar 29, 2009
    Columbus Indiana
    Today was a very productive day.

    The long and short of things are I'm 1/2 way done stripping the old glue off of the cab.

    I took some pictures as I went which I'll post on Myspace for now.

    I got the beast upstairs and outside, covered the speakers with cardboard to prevent any accidental splashing of chemicals on them.

    I spent an hour "learning" on one of the sides, but after an initial couple tries I got down what/how to do the process. I got the top, handle, and back done pretty well. Tomorrow I am going to hit the bottom and other side. I am going to finish with the first side I started to get it right.
     
  8. johnk_10

    johnk_10 vintage bass nut Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 16, 2008
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    John K Custom Basses
    i just retolexed and regrilled my ampeg 810 today. i used one long piece that goes over the top, down the back and under the bottom. then applied the two side pieces. i believe that this is the way that Ampeg tolex's them. here's a pic of it finished:

    svt-vr-svt810-av.
     
    punchclock likes this.
  9. thombo

    thombo Supporting Member

    Aug 25, 2006
    Denver, CO
    _daniel_, welcome to talkbass!
    i was just searching this very thing, and didn't want to start a new thread, so thanks. i also picked up an ampeg svt 810 today (older, one 1/4") for $300!
    the person that i bought it from had it covered in neon green cloth. it looks pretty cool from far away, but it is pretty shoddy workmanship when you are w/in 5 feet of it, gaps, peeling, and what have you.

    _daniel_, are you trying to do an authentic restoration like johnk_10's (which looks great!) or are you doing your own thing? i am leaning toward the later... between doing an Emperer cab treatment (classy finish, stain), a unique/funny color toltex (ampeg dimond, red, white, or green), or using some pickup bedliner paint on the cab.
    i need to add a kick plate and am considering adding handles to the side or bottom... maybe.
    my cab sounds amazing, so this project is more for fun.

    keep us posted, as i'd enjoy comparing notes.

    also, if anyone can date svt cabs, i'm really curious. serial #158380, reads SVT (for model), big casters on the back, no kickplate (at least not anymore), one 1/4" jack on a slightly recessed plate on the back (reads ampeg, 4 ohms, svt, serial number), plastic ampeg logo, have not taken any speakers out yet.
     
  10. johnk_10

    johnk_10 vintage bass nut Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 16, 2008
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    John K Custom Basses
    Hi thombo,
    what a co-inky-dink. i paid $300 for mine too (off of craigslist). it was structurally and all of the speakers are perfect, but it had black grill cloth and alot of ripped up tolex, so i made it match my VR head.

    if your cab has its original speakers, there are date codes on them. that would give you an idea as to what year your cab was made.
     
  11. thombo

    thombo Supporting Member

    Aug 25, 2006
    Denver, CO
    thanks johnk! again, your cab looks great... how hard is it to re-toltex?
     
  12. johnk_10

    johnk_10 vintage bass nut Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 16, 2008
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    John K Custom Basses
    its not that difficult. just time consuming. (mine needed alot of prep to get the cabinet ready to re-tolex it). the trick to doing the sides is to overlap the tolex and make one cut thru both pieces so they flush up to each other when glued down. i use 3M 90 spray adhesive and once its set in place, its not going anywhere.
     
  13. _daniel_

    _daniel_

    Mar 29, 2009
    Columbus Indiana
    Hey! I am going to do custom restoration.
    Here's my plan at this moment:
    • White Tolex
    • Standard issue black grille cloth
    • Red piping
    • Black hardware/rails etc
    • Rinolined kickplate*
    • Custom Fabrication for the bottom 45 degree bend**

    *I went and talked with a local 4x4 modification shop and brought the kick plate with me. They said they could rino line it without any issues and discussed the options with me. --So I am going to rino line my kick plate.

    **The worst wood wear on my 810 is the 45 bend at the bottom. I am going to get a piece of metal bent and rinolined that I can affix to the bottom bend to protect the wood there.

    I am considering making a "work instruction" type word file to document the repair when I get done. We'll see how it goes I guess.

    Tonight I am going to continue to strip the remaining adhesive while I barbeque some hamburgers. :D
     
  14. Subscribed...I am about to refinish an SVT1540-HE and this will give me some morale.
     
  15. thombo

    thombo Supporting Member

    Aug 25, 2006
    Denver, CO
    how many yards of toltex did you order?
     
  16. johnk_10

    johnk_10 vintage bass nut Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 16, 2008
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    John K Custom Basses
    i orderd 5 yards to be safe but could have gotten away with 4 yards.
     
  17. thombo

    thombo Supporting Member

    Aug 25, 2006
    Denver, CO
    _daniel_, as i don't want you to think i am hijacking your thread, please feel free to PM (private message) me to suggest i start my own thread if you don't want me posting my project here... otherwise, i figure it is easier for future searchers to see more than one 810 refurb in a post. i am also looking forward to comparing notes as we go.

    so i took the ratty, already peeling neon green pleather off yesterday, and now it is sanding time. it is a pretty daunting task with my little sanding block... any suggestions? is it worth picking up a hand sander from a pawn shop?
    on the 15th post of insomniac2295's refurb project (link below), he found a drill attachment that he said works well... worth it? http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=490505

    after looking around the site, and liking my rhino coated schroeder 1515 (great cab), i am leaning toward Dura-Tex over stain or tolex. it seems best in terms of diy ease, practicality, durability, color options, and end product. i found this post where Bill Fitzmaurice suggests it (he seems to have a great rep around TB).

    right now, i am thinking of going red for the cab, keeping the white grill, and am considering adding some black molding (1/4 round?) around the gill cloth. nothing set in stone, just letting my brainsicles do there thing.
     
  18. johnk_10

    johnk_10 vintage bass nut Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 16, 2008
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    John K Custom Basses
    due to the size of it, a sanding block was out of the question for me. IMO, the drill sander would be kinda hard to deal with too since it is a circular sander. you can get a 1/4" sheet type vibration sander fairly cheap:

    http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100599174

    and it will save you TONS of time and effort. i have found the square ones to give a flatter/more even surface over the round ones ( i have both ). i used 36 grit paper on mine and it worked great.
     
  19. thombo

    thombo Supporting Member

    Aug 25, 2006
    Denver, CO

    good call, i had the same thought on the drill sander. i'm not a fan of ryobi, but at that price, it would be worth it if it makes it through this one project, thanks John. i'd definitely go with flatter one.
     
  20. _daniel_

    _daniel_

    Mar 29, 2009
    Columbus Indiana
    There could be nothing more flattering than having my first post here hijacked. :D

    My project has been on hold. Yesterday it rained and, due to fumes, I'm only doing the glue stripping outside. Instead of labor I've been looking up parts. I ordered the piping today and located the tolex supplier I am going to use. I have also figured out where I can get my corners powder-coated to keep with the "black hardware" theme.

    More pictures as I actually get some work done.

    In the mean time - please - keep the hijack going. I'm learning from everyone who posts.
     

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