1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

Fix for stripped strap peg hole?

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by CaptainWally, Sep 20, 2004.

  1. CaptainWally

    CaptainWally Supporting Member

    Oct 21, 2000
    Sandy Eggo, CA
    I've got a bass with a strap peg (is that the right term?), and the screw that holds it in is kinda hanging in there ok, but it's obviously stripped and seems like a matter of time before it comes out. I say it's stripped because you can keep turning it forever and it never will stop.

    Is there a fix for this?
  2. fivestringdan

    fivestringdan Supporting Member

    Dec 4, 2001
    Little Rock, AR
    Break some toothpicks off in the hole with elmers glue, let it dry and rebore the hole. Works every time.
  3. CaptainWally

    CaptainWally Supporting Member

    Oct 21, 2000
    Sandy Eggo, CA
    I'll be darned... thanks.

    That's just regular elmer's glue with the cow on the front? The kind I used to eat in 1st grade?
  4. BigWave


    Jan 12, 2004
    Salinas CA
    I have used toothpicks and wood glue to fix this problem. It seems to work fine. Just put a little glue on a couple of toothpicks (cut to length) and stuff them in the hole. Let it dry then screw the strap button back in.
  5. embellisher

    embellisher Holy Ghost filled Bass Player Supporting Member

    Moved to Setup.
  6. Lyle Caldwell

    Lyle Caldwell

    Sep 7, 2004
    That works pretty well in most cases. If it doesn't, or you want "perfection", have a luthier drill out the hole and put a hardwood dowel in, then redrill for the screw.

    Note: wood putty does NOT work, despite the claims on the side of the container.
  7. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    Works everytime! :)
  8. odie

    odie Supporting Member

  9. CaptainWally

    CaptainWally Supporting Member

    Oct 21, 2000
    Sandy Eggo, CA
  10. Stevious G

    Stevious G

    May 5, 2003
    I dunno. The toothpick thing has always seemed half-a$$d to me. I'm very much of the oppinion that, if you're gonna do it, you should do it right...

    That being said, I suggest getting a drillbit that is slightly larger than the hole, and some hardwood dowell of a matching size. Re-drill out the hole at least an inch and a half deep, spread a thin layer of glue over a legnth of dowell that's just a little longer than the hole is deep, and tap it in with a hammer. Wipe off the excess glue. Let it dry, then take off the rest of the dowell with a hacksaw and some low-grit sandpaper. Tape off the body before you do that, of course. Then drill a pilot hole thru the center of the dowell, using a drillbit that is just thinner than the center shaft of the screw you plan to use.
    There you go. BETTER than new, (since, due to grain patterns in the dowell, it's actually LESS likely to strip.)
  11. Oysterman


    Mar 30, 2000
    I tried the tootpick thing on my Yamaha TRB, and it worked splendidly. I didn't even use glue (seemed there was enough friction and pressure without it), and I had it like that for a year without problems. Then I happened to sell the bass (for completely different reasons). But if it works without glue for a year's time, it will probably work even longer with glue. Quite acceptable for my needs. Especially considering how darn easy it is to do!
  12. odie

    odie Supporting Member

    I agree with Oysterboy :) ;). If a toothpick doesnt fix it then try the dowell. It just seems overkill to drill the bass out, cut near it etc. Seems you run more of a risk by doing this.