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Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Adrian73, Nov 20, 2016.
IMO, that's not a very serviceable repair the next time it needs a proper repair... how come you didn't just fix it properly?
Spritz connector with a little deoxit, then reconnect and play. If a few of the pins are a bit too small, tin the appropriate pin(s) with a low wattage iron.
So you lost the connector. Why didn't you just buy another one, or were you in a jam & really needed to use it?
Very bad advice, another way to ruin a perfectly good part. If the female side is bad (the male side never fails) the correct way to fix it is to replace the harness. I'm sure the manufacturer's service centers are capable of performing a proper service.
Why would somebody be ok with ruining an otherwise perfectly good piece of gear? Boggles my (admittedly engineering) mind.
Looks like someone fudged up the connector shell (not you?) and tried to hot glue it back in place.
When that didn't work, they soldered directly in.
Regardless if that is the cause of the fuzziness or not, get it fixed first.
Then worry about what is left that may still be, or not be, wrong.
Few things in life work out better than a proper repair with OEM parts if you want to return a system to OEM level performance. If that electrical repair works even half as poorly as it looks, I'd be shocked (no play on words intended).
Personally, I'd have a tech make a proper repair using OEM or OEM level spec parts and then do a full check out to be sure nothing else has been damaged or is wrong. Hopefully, that unusual/creative repair job is all that you have to deal with. Good luck!
LOL! It has worked well for me and many others for years. The deoxit is often effective on its own - whats wrong with that? The tinning simply adds a uniform film of solder to the pin - no obvious thickness or lump. Nothing ruined there. We will have to agree to disagree on this one.
This piece of gear has not been ruined - it is evidently working just fine with the connections hard-wired by the OP. I would prefer to keep the functionality of the connector. Of course, the wire harness could be replaced by a qualified tech - minimum 1 hour charge plus parts cost and a wait. Why not try the deoxit first? Frankly, I can see no reason to get spun up about it. Congrats to the OP for effectively dealing with this problem. Thanks to some discussion here, he and others now have alternative ways to deal with this.
Egads, don't click to enlarge. What happens when the shoddy soldering lets loose and a wire goes where ever it wants to go?
Now it not only needs a new harness or a new end (if the tech has the proper tooling and has the art of crimping down), it needs the header desoldered and replaced. If there is not a removable bottom cover, your in for a fair amount of bench time to get that board out to work on it.
You might find a tech willing and able to desolder the header and solder the wires directly to the board if the plated holes are large enough. That would not be a proper repair and could come back to bite you later, but it would at least be stable.
I sure hope it was out of warranty, because it is now.
Solder oxidizes on its surface which causes intermittent connections. This is why no manufacturer of connector components uses solder plating or coating, because it is a horrible solution. To recommend it to somebody is IMO nothing more than perpetuating bad internet advice. The contact surfaces are either tin, silver, nickle, NiAg, or gold for exactly this reason.
I am amazed at how some folks are ok with a really crappy repair. You would think with all the professed talk about quality here, there would be a higher standard than scraping the bottom of the barrel.
(The fact that you have to ask what's wrong with it makes me wince even more)
It's a standard part, something that the manufacturer would supply and it's not an expensive part either.
I am to the point where I will no longer service botched repair attempts on gear that I service... just not worth the grief and the potential problems down the road. I am seeing more and more botched repairs by DIY and crappy techs, what makes folks think that if they know what end of the soldering iron to hold they are suddenly an expert in repairs? Damn internet and YouTube videos convincing folks that they can do anything... ok, time to get off the lawn (GOF rant over)
DeoxIT does nothing to help with soldered connections.
It only works on mating contacts.
The connector on the wiring harness is gone.
The mating connector on the board is damaged.
You need new connectors installed on both sides of this.
I am going to stand on my workbench and yell as loud as I can. Turn down your screen level.
DO NOT ADD SOLDER TO THE PINS OF MATING CONNECTORS!
Mating connectors are designed to tolerances that allow them to fit properly together.
When they no longer do that, it is replace the connector time.
Certainly try a bit of DeoxIT if you suspect a dirty connection.
But don't add solder to the pin's mating surfaces.
Where does it say that the OP was responsible for any of this?
I saw nothing posted by the OP where he said he made this mess.
There is just a title and a photo. Or did I miss something?
If it works for you, then it works.
I would have called G&K and asked they to fix their failed connector, and while they are at it, put in those missing 50 watts back in.
+1, with a few extra thrown in for good measure.
Again... How do we know it was a failed connector that G&K should fix as in a warranty repair? If that's what you're saying?
Maybe some someone tried to tin the pins with solder and ruined the connector?
This connector did not go bad all by itself for no reason.
I suspect it had help from someone who skipped class at tech school on "care and feeding of connector" day.
The OP provided no information about how this came to be in such a woefull state.
For all we know, he acquired the amp in this condition.
You've completely misunderstood what was said. My suggestions were for alternatives to hard wiring (soldered contacts). The deoxit should be applied to the pins, not to soldered connections. Who in their right mind would spray contact cleaner on a soldered contact? The deoxit can work wonders for corroded contacts. However, it should not be sprayed into the chassis, but applied via drops off a small ga wire. Those who cannot read should not attempt this! Those who lack the skill needed to add a film of solder to a pin (instead of a clump) or who feel uncomfortable tinning pins should not do so. These connectors are not like tubes or other parts that need periodic routine replacement. They normally last for years, even decades.
Tinning the pins of a contact with solder is like poor food handling practices adding bacteria to food... may appear ok in the short run, and you may get away with it, but is not good practice in the long run.
But this particular problem was way beyond a Deoxit fix.
It seemed odd to bring it up in response to the OP's question.
Certainly DeoxIT is appropriate to deal with corrosion, and it is useless on a soldered connection.
All as has been mentioned here.
And I know that how?
Been there, done that.
I Imagine I am not the first, nor will I be the last to live and learn.
It is truly ironic that with so many posts on TB addressing quality (as agedhorse mentioned above) at almost nit-picking levels in some cases that we'd be trying to talk ourselves into the enduring value of "less than best practice" repairs. I would agree that some of the techniques mentioned might "save a show", but can anyone honestly say that in a professional environment they would be happy to live with those "quick and dirty" fixes long term?
Temporarily plugging a tire sidewall or duct-taping a ruptured hose when off-roading can often get you home, but I personally wouldn't want to take a cross country trip with those "emergency fixes" in place.