Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Strings [BG]' started by Later_Peter, Oct 12, 2017.
You mean the "the best way to trim your strings is with a Fender Rumble" threads?
You just described every string thread ever.
I personally like to trim my amps tone by using GHS strings, YMMV.
I think you should be okay but it would be a case by case basis. You'd never want to cut the fat part of the string. You could thread it through a stack of small washers on the backside of the bridge and get maybe another quarter inch shortening that way. An enterprising person could also make a quarter inch thick metal plate with four holes drilled into it to achieve the same effect so as to broaden the range of useable strings .
Dude, Mesa D800. You'll never need another string.
All one needs is a HPF to unflatten their flats and a LPF to flatten their rounds. The rest is gravy.
You did better than I did on my last string order. I ordered a set of cello strings (for a customer) and received a banjo/mandolin capo.
Guys, should I wipe my but after a #2? And is it ok to fold the paper or should I just crumple it into a ball like an ape?
Jesus, the questions that get asked here. Of course you can cut your strings. How else are you supposed to get them to the right length? Asking politely?
As mentioned, find the point on the string you want to end at, kink it 90 degrees. Cut 1/4" or so or maybe a bit more (depends on your tuners) past the bend. Bob's your uncle.
Now I've got a serious question to ask. If I have a 1w amp and a 5000w cab, am I going to underpower the cab? I don't want it to suck all the power from the amp and use it up. Also because I use solar power and some wind and those are obviously finite resources that we have to preserve. I'm going to be so sad when we run out of wind. I really enjoy a nice a breeze once and a while.
Sorry I blew you up... Next time, I'll remember to ask you first. Thanks for clearing that up for me... Unlike you, I have to learn this now, since I wasn't born with that information.
There is no reason you should not get a full refund for sending back the new / unopened / unused set... I do it all the time.......
Cutting a string that fits your bass properly to length so that it wraps around the tuning post properly is not an issue. I don't believe that is what the OP is asking about however.
If you own a short scale bass your selection of strings for it is already limited compared to what is made for long scale basses. And then there is the fact that nothing is standard. Long scale basses are pretty standard at 34 inches with fairly common anchor point to bridge saddle lengths and headstock layouts. Everything is pretty close to a Precision Bass.
Short scale basses are less standard and the strings made for them are less standard. A few short scale basses are designed to accept long scale strings in fact. So it is always a bit of a crap shoot when you decide to try new strings on a short scale bass. And if you are like me and you use a non-standard tuning you are pretty much going to be forced to "cut", as in cut down/shorten/unwind, the sounding length of the string so that it will wrap around the tuning post properly. I believe this is what the op is asking about.
I've done it a few times now with round and pressure wound strings. I have not tried any other types. Yet. What I do is mark the string where the nut is and where the outer winding needs to stop to wrap properly around the tuning post. Then I put some electrical shrink wrap tubing on the string between those two marks and unwind the string down to the tuning post mark. No issues so far. I can't predict how well the technique would work with flats.
Having said that, I agree that in a case where a supplier sends you the wrong string the best option is to return them for a replacement. I only cut down strings when the strings I want are not available in the length I need.
Ti-Jazz Flats Makes a medium scale string that should fit your bass.
I have medium scale Chromes on my Hofner. They fit perfectly and I just cut a little off. They will fit no problem.
btw, I recommend using the brightest possible strings on the wonderful Allan Woody bass, probably the darkest tone bass I have due to that unique p.u. placement. (Maybe unless you are doing dub reggae, no treble bass) If you want a vintage thump, try Pressure rounds, you need some mids, but I'd get Dunlop ultra bright nickles or EB Cobalt rounds...I have light guage roto steel on now, and that's another issue, some E strings are too wide. it needs a 100.
I used to use long scale flats on my short scale Musicmaster and medium scale Hagstrom. I just cut them to length. However, the Musicmaster had full sized tuners, so YMMV. The Hagstrom had tiny tuners, but I cut off less.
For people who say you have to cut on the silks... how do you deal with strings with no silk?
& now, before this gets even further off track... Here's the portion of the question that seems to remain UNANSWERED: IF (if) I cut FLATWOUND strings BELOW the silk (onto the "speaking" portion) will the string (unwind, de-laminate, malfunction) become a waste of time & money & product????
So, I apologize for the confusion. I do not apologize about the question, though. I will decide what to do after the strings arrive. (I'll contact M.F. also)
This has been my experience. I’ve done this with some flats that didn’t fit my not-quite-medium scale hollowbody and did not have any success.
Actually, this has been answered; guess it just got lost in the verbage - mine included. The answer is; if you cut a flatwound string below the silk, there is a very high probability that it will come apart, and the string will be useless. This can also happen with roundwound strings, but the probability is a little less. What everybody is saying, though, is that if you put the right angle bend to insert it into the tuner peg first - BEFORE you cut it - you will most probably have no problem. Your problem will come if and when you try to wind the full diameter string around the tuning post; flatwounds really don't like that. Personally, I don't think you'll have to do that, though. You'll probably wind up cutting most of the silk-wrapped part off the E and G string, and getting maybe a turn or so of the thick part on the tuner post. The A and D string will probably be OK - but just barely. But, as I said before; strings in any given scale category are not all the same overall length. So, it just depends on the total overall length of medium scale Chromes...
Have used long scale chromes on a short scale bass before with no issues but i used light gauge, the biggest issue you will have its getting the E string to wrap around the tuner due to the string thickness, ymmv
Tune in tomorrow (or whenever they arrive), same time, same station, same static... as the saga continues. Next episode will feature the fine stylings of those mellow mellifluous musings of madmen & the randy renderings of rational ragers.
Here are some related products that TB members are talking about.
Clicking on a product will take you to TB’s partner,
where you can find links to TB discussions about these products.
Browser not compatible