Frequency response

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Captain Awesome, Sep 19, 2001.

  1. +- 65 hz

    1 vote(s)
  2. +- 60 hz

    3 vote(s)
  3. +- 50 hz

    10 vote(s)
  4. +- 40 hz

    39 vote(s)
  5. +- 30 hz

    33 vote(s)
  6. +- 20 hz

    10 vote(s)
  7. Other...

    3 vote(s)
  8. Who cares as long as I have carrots?

    15 vote(s)
  1. Captain Awesome

    Captain Awesome

    Apr 2, 2001
    I just want to find out how important frequency response is to everyone when choosing cabs and what they aim for. Do you prefer to have a cabinet that can produce the fundamental of an E or low B, or do you consider other factors such to be more important?
  2. I can't bear to see anyone's thread have no replies, so here's my two cents. I think the absolute best thing to do is to play your bass with your head if possible through whichever bottom we happen to be talking about, and just let your ears be the judge. I think the more we pay attention to specs, the more we drive ourselves nuts.

    Mike J.
  3. Geoff St. Germaine

    Geoff St. Germaine Commercial User

    Aug 31, 2001
    Halifax, Canada
    Owner - St. Germaine Guitars
    I play 5 string, and as such, you would think that I would like a cab that pulled 30Hz easily, but in reality I don't agree with this. I find that GENERALLY, cabs that have low freq responses down to 30Hz tend to cause the B string to sound muddy, as the B has a lot of strong bass that sometimes masks the articulation. My Super Redhead, which I got today goes to 45Hz and -3dB and I find already that the B sounds better as compared to my Nemesis that went down to 37Hz. But I agree that you must try them out to be sure, as amp manufacturers can distort the ratings being either conservative (doubt it) or generous (most likely).

  4. JMX

    JMX Vorsprung durch Technik

    Sep 4, 2000
    Cologne, Germany
    Too much low end messes with the stage sound and angers the soundman in my experience, you don't really need ultra low end to get a good sound.
  5. I voted for "Other", because you'd be surprised how good it sounds when you start to roll off at 80 Hz.

    If you pluck the open E string on a Fender Precision bass and look at the frequency content of the output signal, the 2nd harmonic (80Hz) is actually louder than the fundamental. Bouncy and round is the name of the game. :D

  6. VicDamone


    Jun 25, 2000
    Of course you don't need responce down to 20Hz, but you realy need to play a system that is truly flat beyond 40Hz to understand why you might want it. Unfortunatly there are very few retailers who sell and demo true subwoofers.

    Most cabinets begin to roll off between 40-100Hz which is why throbbinnuts golden ears hear a more articulet tone around 80Hz. Cutting off the frequency to the main cabinet at 60-70Hz then letting a true subwoofer take over frees up the main cabinets task of trying to reproduce low frequencies. The result is more volume from the main cabinet and truly deep defined tone not at all muddy. Another advantage is how lightly you can play the B and E strings which results in even more definition of the lower notes. Do you need this?

    A more benificial cabinet specification would be exactly where a cabinet begins to roll off not at -2 or 3dB
  7. No golden ears here. Copper maybe, or aluminum, or maybe even lead, but surely not golden. :D

  8. Munjibunga

    Munjibunga Retired Member

    May 6, 2000
    San Diego (when not at Groom Lake)
    Independent Contractor to Bass San Diego
    It's tough to find cabs that'll go down to 30 hz with less than 3 dB falloff, but if you can get 30 hz at -6 dB you're doing fine.

    My D-410XLT is -6 dB at 31 hz, and my D-210XLT is -6dB at 35 hz. Both sound great with five string basses. Neither of them sound muddy at all, probably because they're 10's. My D-115XL is -6 dB at 38 hz, and can sound muddy without the judicious application of the proper EQ.
  9. embellisher

    embellisher Holy Ghost filled Bass Player Supporting Member

    I agree with Munji.

    My Eden Metro is -6dB at 35hz, and sounds great with a 5 string.

    My SWR Basic Black is -3dB at 38hz, but the 15 on it sounds more muddy than the 2x10's in my Metro.
  10. Gallient Knight

    Gallient Knight Guest

    Jul 31, 2001
    Milford CT
    I am a lows junkie. I love the sub sonics that you can really only feel. Most of that is resonance of the room. Pushing that much air in not a great idea in most live situations but my neighboors all work duing the day and I work from my home so I am free to flex test my windows all day long. To me there is something calm and warming about a whole house or room vibrating at its resonant frequency. I voted 30 hz. but I agree with the general thought of the thread. Go for what sounds best to you. I tried buying based on spec sheets and have ebayed a lot of "new" gear based on that.
  11. I also have the 2-10 & 4-10 XLTs. I also have a Sonic/EV 1-18.
    Do you use all your cabs at once? What config do you use?
  12. basslax


    Apr 20, 2000
    Washington, DC
    I nebeh learnid bou' frekency reponse but I do know dat I like carrots! Huh huh!
  13. Matthias


    May 30, 2000
    Vienna, Austria
    1. I don't trust specs. It seems that every manufacturer is deriving them differently, so it makes no sense to compare them (IMHO)

    2. Even if I knew the 'true' specs, this does not tell me how 'articulated' or 'defined' the low end is reproduced (and how the cab sounds generally).
    The lower a cab can go, the more important is 'definition' if you don't want to drown everything in mud.

    As others stated before: listening is the only way if you want to be sure.
    Or you trust in reviews and word of mouth and order your gear unseen - I had good luck with this method...

  14. RAM

    RAM Guest

    May 10, 2000
    Chicago, IL
    Specs like these are made for idiots! My EBS 4x10 is rated to go as low as 70 hz. To some 5-stringers, that may seem inadequate, on a good day. But, I'll put that cab against anything out there for reproducing good, clear lows! And, those that don't think they can feel it in their chest, I'll challenge you to the "chest-hit" factor!

    Another thing, when I put that cab on a stage, the stage acts like a subwoofer in itself. Plus, I always have at least some sound through the PA which has its own subs.

    Based on all that, why should I need to go lower than 70 Hz?
  15. Frank Martin

    Frank Martin Bitten by the luthiery bug...

    Oct 8, 2001
    Budapest, Hungary, EU
    Talking about frequencies... I guess many of you guys don't even know what frequency the sounds are your bass makes.
    Optimally:B-string: 123,75Hz(+41.25Hz(3,75*11)=E)
    E-string: 165Hz (+55hz (5*11)=A)
    A-string: 220Hz (+77Hz (7*11)=D)
    D-string: 297Hz (+99Hz (9*11)=G)
    G-string: 396hz (+132Hz (12*11)=C)

    (These are the open strings when tuned absolute properly)
    Of course your bass makes other freq sounds as well, because you are not playing them at the middle of the string (12th fret), and it makes certain overtones (is that the right word for "felhang"? If some fellow Hungarian knows, tell me), so these overtones might be deeper, and these necessitate the deeper freq response. But the main sound comes from the string's pitchnote.
  16. Brad Johnson

    Brad Johnson Inactive

    Mar 8, 2000
    Gaithersburg, Md
    DR Strings
    I know what the frequencies are... I just don't care. I don't see where they're really relevant to what I do.

    The only spec I really rely on is impedance. The rest of the decision is based on how it sounds and portability. I wouldn't have bought the EA's that I did based on specs, on paper my amp shouldn't be able to push them as easily as it does.
  17. Nightbass


    May 1, 2001
    Seattle, WA
    You copied from the "mandolin" chart, not the "bass guitar" chart. Try again. :)
  18. :D
  19. Matthias


    May 30, 2000
    Vienna, Austria
    The bass is actually tuned 2 octaves lower:
    B: 31Hz
    E: 41Hz
    A: 55Hz
    D: 74Hz
    G: 98Hz

    And overtones (harmonics) are always higher in pitch, that's why they are called overtones :D

    If you have found a method to play subharmonics please let me know...

  20. i think if it sounds good then its good, the main thing is impendence and wattage, although some companies "claim" to have a high wattage cab, but in reality a lower wattage cab might still handle the power a lot better. so use your ears that is the only way to be sure.