Full pocket shims vs Back of pocket shims

my exceptionally strong opinion ( ) is that almost any shim works if the bolts can hold the neck and body tightly enough, together. a strong, tight mating of neck and body is the ticket to not having tonal/other issues.

most folks who use shims don't report problems. some axes just need shims. (i use back-of-pocket shims.)

good luck with your shimming quest!

 

I’ve used both. Usually I only make a full size tapered shim if i need a larger angle, for instance mounting a Bigsby on a Telecaster and using the Jaguar bridge. For most typical applications a shim at the front edge of the pocket is fine.

Also, if you’re interested, here’s a pretty lengthy discussion about partial shims and whether or not they cause ski jumps.

Getting the Facts about Ski Jumps

 

I never use a shim unless the bridge saddles won't go low enough. In that situation I make a shim that fills the entire pocket so the neck stays flat. I really don't understand the concept of a tilted neck and why you would want that. I've never seen a setup issue (except in a defective/warped neck) that can't be solved in the normal way with truss rod or bridge saddles. I would only go to a shim (and a flat shim in that case) when one or more bridge saddles are all the way down. Professional luthiers may be able to shed more light.

 

I've only onced needed a full pocket shim. That was for my Ibanez SR which has a highly asymmetrical neck pocket and screw alingment. The usual didn't quite work as intended.

But for my Fender... The tried and true. Never noticed a change in tone in any shim scenario encountered.

 

I just put on a new Mighty Mite neck and the action is ridiculously high. Need to tinker and probably add a shim. How does one go about making a full pocket tapered shim with basic shop tools? Can I do it with a miter saw?

 

Stew Mac has wonderful full pocket shims with angles or flat.

StewMac Neck Shims for Guitar | stewmac.com

guitar neck shims | eBay


And yes! You are right, go full pocket shim.

I have a 1966 Fender P Bass and when I popped off the neck there was one of those little shims at the very end of the pocket. I took it out. It was not even needed. I heard that Fender many times stuck in shims whether needed or not. I sold the damn shim on eBay for about $28.

 

i like a full shim -it feeds my craftmanship ocd.

otoh, i've seen a lot of fabricky tape nubs on new instruments.

 

First off, shims don't cause ski jumps. If you want to hear more about it, check this thread where a number of professional repair techs chime in:

Getting the Facts about Ski Jumps

Secondly a shim cannot cause fret sprout.

A partial pocket shim works fine and without causing problems. But it should be done right. Make sure the shim extends just past the inner screw holes as in the second example., not like the first:

 

I partially shim in the anonymity and security of my own home.

I am not ashamed of it no matter what the full pocketists cry.

 

I've done both, many times. I don't see any indication that partial shims cause any specific issues. I know some people see issues on necks that happen to have partial shims, but those issues also appear on necks with no shims at all - I'm not sure it's appropriate to assume causation.

 

Full

 

on new sub 1k instruments, it's not uncommon to see a hunk of tape at the back end of a neck pocket. i do like to see tight contact with the pocket floor rather then an air gap, sawdust, lumpy paint, buffing compound, and chips stripped out from the neck screw holes though.