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Gallien Krueger Fusion 550 RFC-II footswitch alternative?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by jimmykicker, Feb 18, 2016.

  1. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    Hey guys, I have a Fusion 550 that didn't come with the footswitch. GK wants $80 for the RFC-II which is astronomical for a damn footswitch. I can find a used one cheaper than that but cost isn't really the thing I am that worried about. I don't need or want the mute function. What I'd really like to do is to have just a single button that would only change the channel to not take up so much space on my board that has an LED. I can mute the rig from my wireless or my GT-5 so a third way (plus the amp face switch makes 4) to mute the amp seems dumb. I could build one, but that thing must be wired all kinds of screwy cause here is what I ran into with various amp switches.

    Crate single button switch Has LED. No effect. Doesn't work either function. Would be perfect otherwise although it could be smaller.

    Crate dual button for testing. Mutes and lights the LED. Channel switch doesn't light or work the function. Too big as well.

    Vox dual button. Changes the channel, (no led...just for testing), but won't mute the amp.

    Peavey. Normal function. No LEDs and HUGE!!!

    I did swap in my buddy's Traynor amp one which works fine and has LEDs, but it's more expensive than the GK one and also two button and HUGE.

    How about loopi brand pedals? They're really small.

    Anybody got a schematic for that pedal? How can I wire it sans the mute switch? I'm totally into building one. Definitely want an LED.
  2. Tip to sleeve is the switch point I believe through an LED. Tip going low from +5volts through an LED switches function with a latching switch (not a momentary). Use a TRS (stereo) cable and jack to prevent the mute (ring connection) from staying high or being linked to the channel function. You could request the schematic from jason@gallien.com that is one of the schematics I do not have.
  3. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    Cool. Just emailed him and he got back to me like 5 minutes later. Crazy. Here it is. Now I'm not the greatest at reading schematics but let me see if I am reading this right.

    The line going all the way around is the chassis ground? On switch one and D2 connection though it doesn't show a dot where they terminate. Is that considered chassis ground there from the switch to the box? Same thing where d2 is? Just kind of confused since the others show a dot indicating connection to that wire.
    Also the "200" for the resistor indicates 200 ohms correct?

    Sorry if I sound dumb. I'm actually a ham and should know this but I've not been a good one in the last 10 years or so.
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
  4. Vic Winters

    Vic Winters Supporting Member

    Apr 20, 2006
    Rochester, NY
    The MB Series foot switch might work.
    Kustom_Thunder likes this.
  5. It's kind of a sloppy draw. Only the lower line is ground coming from the jack case (sleeve). It looks like I assumed wrong on one point in that with the switch latched the function is low (or off). The 200 would be 200 ohms 1/4 watt. With the switch open (muted) power runs from the tip through the resistor and LED to ground (case or sleeve of jack). With the switch closed (unmuted) the tip is connected directly to the jack sleeve.

    That help clear it up?
  6. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    So I assume correctly in that all four of those connections are ground right? Meaning sw1, sw2, d1 and d2?
  7. At the bottom only, yes.
  8. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    Cool. If they had just put the dots on all 4 I'd been fine. I installed a fuel injection system on an S-10 3 years ago that was a carbureted truck originally and knew that if it didn't have a dot, it was "laying across" the other wires only for illustration, not connection.

    Thanks as always!
  9. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    Oh....if I just go one button too can I just leave out the ring circuit? Since I just need the tip? Use a standard TS cable?
  10. No, use a TRS (stereo) plug and jack and ground the ring. Both "Channel" and "Mute" switches on the amp must be in the up position for the footswitch to work. If you don't ground the ring the amp will always be muted.
    jimmykicker likes this.
  11. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    Thanks...it appears to be a weird one comparde to the others. I think I was going to build one anyway with mute delete since I don't really need that cause I can mute the system other ways. But thanks!

  12. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    I see now. When you plug that in it would make the switch in an open state which would make it mute. Makes sense!
    B-string likes this.
  13. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    So do the LEDs light when switches are closed or open? Or better yet does it stay illuminated and flash when it's muted like it does on the amp?
  14. When the switches are open (logic state high for the amp head). Closed the 5volt is grounded (logic state low).
  15. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    switch. okay...I've got this Crate dual footswitch I acquired recently. One of the footswitches will mute the amp, but it will not change the channels...Judging by the wiring diagram can you guys see what might be wrong? It looks to wired correctly. I have to be missing something. To make it clearer the top right lug on the jack is the ground lug, the one below goes to either the tip or the ring (I am not sure of the layout of these jacks) and the bottom right is the other hot. Mapped below. Looks like to me that should work this circuit. I know there isn't a problem with the amplifier because it works fine with the peavey switch. Any takers?

    1 Empty 4 Ground
    2 Empty 5 Hot
    3 Empty 6 Hot
  16. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    I think I may have figured this out...It appears the two switches are SPDT latchers and what I actually need are two SPST latching switches right?
  17. BogeyBass


    Sep 14, 2010
    I'm sorry but guess it's easier to live without the led.
    the amp already has one?
    and likewise it probably be cheaper though just buying a non illuminated switch and adding the led instead of buying the cables, case, Jack etc etc.
    jimmykicker likes this.
  18. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    Well...let's talk about what an idiot I am. Upon looking closer at the forums it appears that I didn't have both the switches on the amp in the UP position! Put them in the "up" position and whaddya know?? The Crate switch works! I hate the LED colors though. One is yellow (which works out as "mute" and the other is red which is channel. I ordered some stuff for this already to basically build one from scratch which is really fine because it is a monster space hog on the board for what guts are in it. I have a blue blinking LED which matches the amp mute function to boot. Oh well...live and learn.
    B-string likes this.
  19. jimmykicker


    Apr 13, 2010
    image. Super compact. Not hogging all my board space. Less than half the size of the Crate or factory switch. Total cost $9. Blinking LED for the mute function.
    B-string likes this.
  20. artzenterprises


    Jan 9, 2012
    Hi, I just came across this post, I'm in the same position and wondered if you would my mind sharing the schematic for the pedal you built. It looks super compact and solid and I love the idea of the flashing blue led. Many thanks. Alan.

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