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getting the perfect set neck

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by jordan_frerichs, Apr 27, 2009.


  1. jordan_frerichs

    jordan_frerichs

    Jan 20, 2008
    Nebraska
    I am a bit worried about the upcoming set neck i have to do, as it will be my first, and i have already had to correct a few things about the straightness of the neck, and the sides of the gluing are being square to the bottom. Those make me feel a bit uneasy. I can still spot the smallest dip in the glue area (bass side). probably nothing to be too concerned about, but i am still loosing sleep over this. I have heard a trick or 2 involving wood filler or something, but i was wondering what you guys do to give yourselves some reassurance?

    Right now i am waiting on getting the bridge so i can rough calculate the neck depth, but i think i know how i will route the pocket (feel free to offer advise). I will secure the neck to the body where i want it, nail in guide rails (the body is ash. is that a problem), and when i get close, to the assumed depth, screw in the bridge (raised by the thickness of the top, and slightly off from final location), clamp in the neck, and put a string or to on it, and see if i need to recess the bridge or add another transition block, or whatever to get it right.


    One thing about the neck, not sure if it is important, but, I made the part of the neck after the fingerboard lower by roughly 3/8" because after the neck is glued and the body chambered, i will glue a top over all of the remainder of the neck (that would be after the fingerboard)
     
  2. bimmer

    bimmer

    Nov 14, 2005
    You know, I'd be really uncomfortable with using using filler in such a critical area as a neck joint from both strength and sound points of view. If by "slight" you mean fractions of a millimeter, you'd be better off with the longest bench plane you have sharpened up to a shaving edge and and shooting the whole face to get it perfect - remember to heel and toe the plane correctly as you work or you'll be no better off. If you don't have access to a good sized (at least a No.5) plane, double stick some 80 grit to a long glass block and run that along it using long even strokes in one direction until it's bang on the money. You can even attach the glass to a piece of 3/4 MDF with a nice square edge and run it against a fence to keep things square. Then again I might I might have misunderstood the whole question in which case you really should ignore everything I just wrote.
     

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