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Glue??

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Goretopsy, Jul 21, 2002.


  1. Goretopsy

    Goretopsy

    Feb 19, 2002
    il
    What kind of glue do you use to glue the body wings to the neck (in a neck through system) is there a special type of glue i should get or recomendations....thanks for your time
     
  2. I just glued the walnut top to my ash body core. I used regular Elmers carpenter glue, and a few C clamps. I'm leaving it overnight to cure, so I won't be certain about the hold til tomorrow, but I'll let you know.

    Just make sure that the joint fits perfectly, you don't want any air pockets. You can check to make sure your joint is even by wetting one piece and setting it into place against the other, and if the other has any dry spots, you know it's uneven in that area.

    It was recommended that I use "hide glue" but I couldn't find it anywhere, so I went with what I knew and trusted and got the Elmers. I've never built a body before, so I'll see how it all works out.
     
  3. Skorzen

    Skorzen

    Mar 15, 2002
    Springfield MA
    I find this interesting, many of the threads I have read over at MIMF condem Tight bond II because they feel that it does not dry as hard as normal Tightbond. Have you found this to be the case, but not an issue, or do you disagree with that consensus?
     
  4. gyancey

    gyancey

    Mar 25, 2002
    Austin, TX
    When I started my first bass in '97 I emailed Mr. Tobias about his glue preference and he mentioned a "personal vodoo" against Titebond (I'm assuming all version of such). I really like the white glue from LMI - it dries very hard and quick.
     
  5. Well, I just check on my body, and the Elmers wood glue is rock solid. It turned out to be a little bit more messy than I was hoping for, but I've got no complaints. It seems like a pretty good hold. I'll see how it holds up against the band saw when I start cutting it to shape.
     
  6. FBB Custom

    FBB Custom TalkBass Pro Commercial User

    Jan 26, 2002
    Maryland
    Owner: FBB Bass Works
    Most of the acoustic builders I know use hide glue. It's very strong, but it starts to run at lower temperatures than yellow glue. I use regular Titebond for all my glue joints and have never had a problem with joints failing.
     
  7. michael tobias

    michael tobias MTD

    Mar 21, 2002
    In the old days before modern glues, hide glue was the thing used to assemble viols, lutes and most woodwork. The number 1 cause for repair was ... glue failure!

    With modern white/yellow glues today, the glue joint is actually stronger than the wood surrounding it. For a solid body instrument, that seems to be the best.

    In cases where you want to glue something and you don't want the wood to be damaged if it moves or changes, hide glue would be the 1st choice, i.e. making a violin or similar acoustic instrument. I would rather glue on bracing with white/yellow glue since it will hold better and glue on the top or back with hide glue incase I had to pull it off for some reason.

    I have a very old blonde K bass from the 30's that was put together with hide glue and it is still very solid......hide glue will work fine for many years.

    As for persopnal voodoo.......the only nasty glue failures I have ever had have been with titebond. That doesn't mean it is all bad. YMMV

    Most yellow/white glues have about a 12-15 min set time. That means once you have spread the glue, you need to clamp the pieces within that time or you loose or comprimise the glue joint. leaving pieces clamped overnight is not a bad thing......the cure times listed on the bottles are pretty accurate
     
  8. Over the weekend I got out the jigsaw and cut the body to a rough shape. The glue held solid all the way through.

    I spent the rest of the weekend sanding and staining. It is wavy ash core with a figured walnut top. I stained the ash with colonial maple color stain, which darkened the ash so the contrast with the dark walnut wasn't as noticeable.

    Next step is the tung oil. :D After that I'll start routing for the pick ups and control cavity. I'm still neck hunting, so I'm leaving the neck pocket alone until I find the right neck.

    Anyone know where I can find a good 22 fret neck with 2+2 tuner config? :D
     
  9. FBB Custom

    FBB Custom TalkBass Pro Commercial User

    Jan 26, 2002
    Maryland
    Owner: FBB Bass Works
    Shouldn't applying the finish be the last thing you do?
     
  10. I'm sure you won't have any trouble routing for your neck but my best technique has been to get the neck before cutting out the body, I use a strong easily seen center line and the uncut body provides more surface for the router base. It helps me keep everything square and straight. Have fun, building is almost as much fun as playing ain't it?