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Gluing body wings on a neck through...

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by JohnL, Jan 24, 2002.

  1. JohnL


    Sep 20, 2000
    Grayson, GA
    Is it better just to glue the two flush surfaces together, or would you get a stronger joint (and better resonance?) by including a few dowel pins?

    Second, do you get better adhesion leaving the surfaces to be glued a little rough as opposed to sanding them too smooth?

  2. rickbass

    rickbass Supporting Member

    John - With all due respect to the expertise on this board, I suggest you refer your question to www.mimf.com .

    These are people who build instruments for a living. You may get a response from such luminaries as Rick Turner and Bill Moll.
  3. JohnL


    Sep 20, 2000
    Grayson, GA
    Thanks Rick, I'll look elsewherefor my answer. (
    Not real sure what the messages from Merlin are for!)
  4. Oysterman


    Mar 30, 2000
    JohnL: Read my PM.
  5. pkr2


    Apr 28, 2000
    coastal N.C.
    John, if you haven't already said to heck with it and went to other sources with a good set-up/building question I'll provide my .02 worth.

    Considering the amount of glue surface that you are dealing with, the additional strength that a doweled joint provides would, in my opinion be overkill.

    You definitely dont want to smooth the glued surfaces to a polished joint but the smoother you can make the mating surfaces, the less visible the joint will be.

    The glue of choice would probably be hide glue because it goes on very thinly and has less of a tendency to seperate the two pieces, thereby creating a nearly invisible joint.

    Epoxy would also work well since the joint will never need to be seperated and may be the adhesive of choice, strictly from a strength point of view.

    About the resonance question, I'm not certain but I'd be willing to bet you couldn't tell the difference regardless of whether you used dowels or not.

    regarding strength, any of the modern wood glues would work very well.

    I, also, have no idea what Merle is doing. Whatever it is, I hope you will continue to be a contributer to the set-up forum.

    Hope this helps you. Feel free to PM me if this post "disappears".

  6. rickbass

    rickbass Supporting Member

    Me neither, John. I thought every response was simply constructive.

    Maybe it's the smoke from all those fires "down under?" ;) ;)
  7. pkr2 is right. Modern glues are way above what they used even 15 years ago.

    I've got to disagree here. Right on about the film thickness but hide glue can seperate with applied heat. That's one of the reasons it's used for attaching fretboards - the possiblity of removal later for a repair. You can easily get the thin film coverage and high strength from a pro wood glue like Titebond. It'll have more than enough strength for this type of joint where there isn't any real stress put on it's union. As for the surface for gluing, you will probably find that a good joint can be made by doing nothing more than making a slow pass through the table saw with a good professional carbide blade. You can even "match" the surfaces by running your wing and neck core pieces through the saw simultaneously. By putting the two pieces together and aligning the saw blade precisely on the gap between them, you can push the pieces past the blade, cutting both gluing surfaces at the same time. This makes a perfect match when sawing on a tablesaw that has a "less than perfect" blade angle.

    Hope this helps.
  8. The reason my posts don't make sense is because the offending post i was refferring too has now been removed. I have also removed my posts so as to stop all the confusion..

    Oh there was a fire alright..... :rolleyes:


  9. pkr2


    Apr 28, 2000
    coastal N.C.
    I agree with your disagreement, Hambone. :)

    Actually, I once saw a nearly new Martin guitar that came all to pieces that had been left in the trunk of a car that was parked in the sun all day.

    Another personal turnoff with hide glue is that a hot glue pot plain stinks. Also it has almost zero gap filling qualities.

    Good trick with mating surfaces on a tablesaw. I've never tried it but it sounds like it should work OK. I would imagine that the work would have to be backed up with scrap to eliminate chipping on the exit side of the blade.

    I suppose I'm old school because I just use a hand plane or jointer.

    Tnx for the tip.

  10. Jeff Moote

    Jeff Moote Supporting Member

    Oct 11, 2001
    Beamsville, ON, Canada
    Yay jointers! You're not old school, you just know what you are doing. Heck I'm only in High School but I know that a jointer is the best way to get an edge square.
  11. alaskabass


    Dec 31, 2001
    The technique Hambone is refering to is called mirror cutting. Using a table saw is a very effecient way to accomplish this.

    It helps to use an alternating bevel bade with an 80 tooth count. This type of blade will not tear out if you perform your cut using a sled on the tablesaw.

    BTW I removed my post so not to hinder the sharing of info in this forum;)

    Not a luminary,

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