Dismiss Notice

Psst... Ready to join TalkBass and start posting, make new friends, sell your gear, and more?  Register your free account in 30 seconds.

Gollihur Carved Bass

Discussion in 'Basses [DB]' started by random bassist, Jan 27, 2005.


  1. random bassist

    random bassist

    Jan 21, 2005
    Fl
    I was just wondering if anyone out there had tried one of Mr Gollihur's bulgarian carved basses. Ive heard a lot about them and was strongly considering having one sent to me to test play. I have been playing for several years on various privately owned basses and need to find one for myself. I have already looked in the newb links and didnt see anything that i havent tried yet really so someone suggested to look at Gollihur's site. I saw that he is selling hand carved basses for a really good price. I am mainly asking this question because of the price. I dont really think it could be very good for the price. Fully carved hand made bass for $2500? well if anyone has played one of these please tell me your opinnion.
    Thanx :bassist:
     
  2. nicklloyd

    nicklloyd Supporting Member/Luthier

    Jan 27, 2002
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    My main comment is that the necks I've seen on them (3 different basses) are very fat, to the point of uncomfortable. This is something that your repairperson could fix, however.
     
  3. I had a 5 string until I found my Shen. The one I had was a nice instrument in that it had a very clear tone.
    It did have alot of wood in it which is good for stability but probably did reduce the resonance.
    I think it's a really nice bass for the price paid and when you're ready for a higher level instrument, I dont think you'd lose money on it.
    It was certainly an improvement from the ply I owned before.

    Bob, is great to work with and has good taste in the products he offers. If that's your price range, I'd give it try.

    I didnt find the neck that thick for a 5 string but again, I dont know about the 4.

    Good Luck,
    Dave
     
  4. random bassist

    random bassist

    Jan 21, 2005
    Fl
    Hey guys thanx for the info. hopefully the neck wont be too big a problem I've got rather large hands so I hope it wont be too big a deal. It is good to know however that this isnt just some cheapy bass, and that people have actually played them. Once again thanx for the comments.
     
  5. godoze

    godoze

    Oct 21, 2002
    i had a 5 also and would generally echo the above statements. The bass was hevily wooded and the neck while not being too thick was extremely wide.

    The other complaint i had was the overstand; it was not set at a modern height. The neck would have to be reset in order to acheive a proper angle.
     
  6. godoze

    godoze

    Oct 21, 2002
    Think flight deck on an aircraft carrier and you're on the right page...
     
  7. KSB - Ken Smith

    KSB - Ken Smith Banned Commercial User

    Mar 1, 2002
    Perkasie, PA USA
    Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd.
    Speaking of Neck-sets.. At the Namm Show, almost every Bass I looked at had a low Bridge and High action with the exception of Kolstein.. Even the E.Wilfer Basses had low Bridges.. Besides loosing Volume, it is hard to Bow when you hit the 'C' Bout with the Tip or hair of the Bow..

    It seems more common than not that Bass 'shops' do not think that much of playability when making and setting the neck.. Arnold knows these things because he Plays.. Barrie also is aware as he repairs alot for top Players as does Jeff as well...

    Speaking of Bob G., where has he been? He used to post here on occassion but I haven't seen much of him in the last year of so..

    BTW, I did see Dons 5er for a second..only.. It looked new and shiny... I think a little less Shine and a better Neck-set will improve this alot.. Also the graduation... I hear a 2:1 Ratio from centre to outer is best.. Like 10mm under bridge and 5mm at the edges.. or 9mm center or even 8mm depending on the wood..

    Maybe Bass makers are trying to avoid having the Bass crack by leaving too much wood and a lower Bridge with less tension..

    My Gilkes and Martini could use a higher Bridge as well to play better and get a little more sound.. Well, play better mostly.. The Gilkes has a small diameter 'C' bout and does get hit sometimes at the edges when you dig in.. You can see from the photos on my website that this is not a new problem with just me... The old Baroque setting I hear was a lower bridge as well.. Sweeter tone maybe but not enough power for Orchestra playing...

    Bob Gs basses sound like a good deal for the money but a little tweek in the design might be a big imporvement as well...
     
  8. azflyman

    azflyman

    Apr 24, 2004
    Astoria, OR
    That was something Gary Upton mentioned to me before I purchased my bass that I really did not understand until I received my bass. He mentioned that most basses did not have enough angle in the neck. He stated that you could not put your fist under the end of the fingerboard of most basses made that were in my price range. I sure am glad I bought a bass from someone who actually knew something (a great deal) about basses.

    az
     
  9. nicklloyd

    nicklloyd Supporting Member/Luthier

    Jan 27, 2002
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    I want to inject at this point and mention two terms: Overstand and Neck Projection. Overstand is the distance that the neck sticks out above the instrument at the neck joint. Neck Projection is the angle which the neck is set into the neck joint. It can be a little cornfusing, and I hope this helps.

    As an example, last week I did a new fingerboard job on a bass that had a low overstand- 18mm, but an incredible neck projection. The resulting bridge was quite tall, about 7 inches, but the overstand was still low.

    I'd agree that several new factory-basses don't have a proper overstand: 30+ mm. It is definitely something to look at when purchasing. Low overstand usually equates with difficult 3rd and thumb position.
     
  10. Nickolo,

    I use 25mm when designing a bass, are you saying it is too low? Should it be more like 32mm?
     
  11. nicklloyd

    nicklloyd Supporting Member/Luthier

    Jan 27, 2002
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    I like 35mm-40mm, depending on the outline. If your bass is playable at 25, great!
     
  12. Bob Gollihur

    Bob Gollihur GollihurMusic.com

    Mar 22, 2000
    New Joisey Shore
    Big Cheese Emeritus: Gollihur Music
    I'm around, lurking more these days since it seems that most times others have already replied to the questions that I could answer ;)
     
  13. nicklloyd

    nicklloyd Supporting Member/Luthier

    Jan 27, 2002
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    So you agree that your Bulgarian basses 1)have necks that are too thick with 2)a low overstand?
     
  14. Bob Gollihur

    Bob Gollihur GollihurMusic.com

    Mar 22, 2000
    New Joisey Shore
    Big Cheese Emeritus: Gollihur Music
    I don't find them to be significantly different from many other basses. Everyone is entitled to their own preferences.
     
  15. Thank you! I will increase the overstand on my current plan.

    BTW I use 150 mm for the "height of the fingerboard projected to the bridge" What do you recommend for that?
     
  16. Jazzman

    Jazzman

    Nov 26, 2002
    Raleigh, NC
  17. nicklloyd

    nicklloyd Supporting Member/Luthier

    Jan 27, 2002
    Cincinnati, Ohio
    Well, I set the neck with a bridge height as the target. I don't measure right off (and down) of the fingerboard's end. A bridge height of 6-6 3/4", depending on the arching and thickness of the top.
     
  18. Nick Stephens

    Nick Stephens

    Jan 10, 2005
    Setup is everything with Bob G's Bulgarian basses. I thought mine sounded good until I took it to Bob Beerman's Violin Shop in Greensboro, NC yesterday. They reshaped the bridge, readjusted the soundpost, dressed the fingerboard and nut, added tailgut and put some better strings then I had on it. It increased volume and added deeper tone. Also alot easier to play. It is for sell at his shop right now for $2400.00 (a very good price for a ready to play carved bass). Why am i selling? I have a booming 1940 Kay M1 now that's more suited for Bluegrass.

    Nick
    Roebuck, SC
     
  19. Well, on my Bulgarian bass, the overstand is 38mm, and the bridge is 156mm tall (about 6 inches). I don't know if the neck is too thick; it's quite wide but I rather like that.

    I second what previous posters said: it's a very heavy bass with lots of wood. My luthier makes fun of me because of that, BTW. And yes, the tone is very clear, very bright. No low-end "puff" here. But if you really dig in, the volume is quite high, and I'm able to achieve enough projection to play about half of my gigs sans amp, even if the drummer uses sticks (and if he knows what he's doing of course). I still haven't found the ideal strings for the bass; I'm currently using a mongrel setup of an Oliv G, Obligato D and A, and Spiro Stark E. I'm probably going to try plain gut next.

    A trick I use to get more low end in the studio is a rubber mute I got from Lemur. It really calms down the mids and yields a quieter, but much warmer sound that is preferable in certain situations.

    --Timo