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Good sound out of my M-2000!!!

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Hugh Jazz, Apr 13, 2002.


  1. Hugh Jazz

    Hugh Jazz

    Sep 13, 2001
    Atlanta, GA
    I finally got my amp and cabs back from one of my friend's storage place, and so I'm very happy. :D

    But anyway, the band was getting ready to practice (it was a big day for us because both the guitarist and I finally had our *real* hardware), and I was hoping I could find a good sound quickly (which = uh oh) because it had been a while since I had played, and I also now have a new bass and slightly different tone preferences. I decided I'd use the tube preamp solo because that's the sound I'm craving.

    Well first of all, I set up my amp and bass tone knobs flat. The result: waaaaaaay too much bass/boom. (BTW, my bass is a BTB 406.) So then I start turning the bass knob on the amp down...until it's almost at 0. Much better...for now. Then I goose the mids, and voila, I have definition. I mess around with the treble until I like what I hear. But I still need to "fine" tune a lot, so I go to the graphic EQ. I boost the high mids (1.2k and little on the 600 Hz) and find that grind that I really like starting to show up. I then realize that the low mids, which I like too, are interfering too much. So I cut the 180 Hz just wee little tad and get more crisp/grind. But now the bass end is a little weak. Not a problem, I think, so I go back to the tone controls on the bass. I boost the bass knob, but it's not doing too much. I set the mid frequency to a little above the lowest setting and boost a tad. Very nice. But I still need just a little bit more, only in a different frequency range. So I go to the bass knob on the amp and most it up to about 3 or 4. Now I have a tone that I really like, and one that fits in with my band really well. Nothing like cutting through with a really ballsy, beefy, aggressive sound. :D :cool:

    But yeah, I got a nice sound (to my ears) out of this airplane cockpit of an amp, and hopefully I won't have to adjust it too much when changing venues. I'm very happy with this amp now, but still considering the 400+ because I could use those extra tubes, don't really need the SS preamp side (at least not right now...maybe later), and could use the leftover cash.

    Just thought I'd share this with you, even though you probably don't care. ;)
     
  2. Ummm...I care? Why don't you print exactly what your Tube side settings are? At my show last Thursday i did something REALLY reckless! I set up a sound using the FET side only! Livin' on the edge, eh? Ha! The sound was most agreeable...actually "better" than my Tube side I'd have to reluctantly admit. This was because i goosed the 30 hz on the rotary knob, and blended a _bit_ of the 50 hz graphic in. I miss the old 400+ set up of 40-100-250-etc. on the graphic. Those frequecy points are so much more useful for bass IMO. 180 HZ?? what the hell am I gonna do with that? I need a 100 HZ for mud-scoop and a 30/40 HZ for fundamental "ooomph." I just got a copy of the M-2000 preamp I will attach...what does this look like to you Hugh jazz?
     
  3. Hugh Jazz

    Hugh Jazz

    Sep 13, 2001
    Atlanta, GA
    Whoa, I don't know about that preamp diagram. I'm nowhere close to figuring that out. The only way I made my "profound" predictions about the 400+ was through that program the techies linked to.

    It's funny because the very first time I touched the amp, I got a good sound out of the FET side because tubes didn't mean too much to me. I liked the heavy bottom with glassy highs, but I soon figured that it didn't really suit my style or taste very much. Especially when playing with a crappy bass.

    But concerning my settings, I'll write them down tomorrow, or whenever it is I get to do it. (I don't know how much they'll help you because I know you play dub, whereas I'm more of a progressive rock/metal guy myself.) The graphic EQ bars change depending on the room and where you are when you play (when I moved the amp to a different part of the room, I had to readjust a tad). But here's what I remember off the top of my head:

    Gain: Varied between 12:00 and 3:00, but stayed at around 2:00 most of the time.

    Treble: Around 2:30.

    Mid: 5:00 (all the way up)

    Bass: This was tricky. In part of the room, it was resonating so much that I cut it out completely. But in the "ideal location" (as in where I found I got the best tone), keeping it at 11:00 was best. So yeah, we'll go with 11:00.

    Master and Output: Adjust to your volume needs.

    Compressor: (The comps are pretty damn good!) Set ratio at 3:1, with the frequency knob towards the bass side (varied between 8:00 and 10:00), and the threshold generally at 11:00. When I increased the gain, I increased the threshold so that I didn't get an overly compressed sound. I think I might go for a 5:1 ratio with a slightly higher threshold next time because the low end will sometimes over power the highs (quite obvious when playing on the B string as opposed to A, D, G, or C).

    EQ: Ahhh, the interesting part! ;) I had the bottom two sliders (50 and 80, I believe) either flat or down a hair (and I mean very very little...might as well leave it flat). Sometimes I'd boost the 50 a tad, but that was only when I needed more gut busting bass. The 180 band is really delicate (and a HORRIBLE frequency center). Keeping it flat would add a lot of meat, but with that came mud. I wish it were down to between 120 and 160. That would be perfect. But yeah, I cut the 180 enough to get rid of some mud while keeping the punch. The more I cut the 180, the more I less I would cut (or sometimes I'd boost) the 50 and 80 bands. However, now that I think of it, I'll cut the 180 to get rid of the crappiness, then dial in the necessary low mid with the controls on the bass. Hopefully that'll work. The 300 was flat or cut just a notch to help with clarity. The 600 and 1.2k were boosted the most. Usually I'd almost max out the 1.2k band, with the 600 about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up. The 4k was boosted a little less than the 600, and the top two were flat.

    Hopefully that'll help you out some. Now I know that it might not be enough low end for you, but I don't know, I was getting TONS of it. In fact, it was overpowering, which is why I had to use the compressor and actually cut on the graphic (which I've never done before). I believe my bass, my technique (or lack thereof), the room, and the 15" cab had a lot to do with it. But then again, I've gotten overpowering lows every room I've played in with this rig.

    When I played with a lighter touch, I got a much more trebly sound than normal, but since I often tend to dig in when playing galloping parts, ala Steve Harris, and that got me a more of bass and meat.

    Overall, I was very happy with the tone. I had managed to get a similar, yet much more powerful tone as I had gotten out of the Ampeg B-100R. The Ampeg had a throatier sound, and pretty good low end, but it lacked the chest kicking punch of the Mesa set up.

    But yeah, hopefully that'll help you out some. :)
     
  4. I've had quite a bit o' luck using the compressor as an EQ tool...with the wicked frequency specific compression I just sueeze what ever I am hearing to much of at any given point of the set; even changing the 3:1 to 5:1 can be quite useful. The compressor is amopng the absoloute best I've heard and probably why I suffer through the other pitfalls of this amp.
    I don't know about that schematic either...It was maile dto me by Michael Worf at Mesa. Looks questionable....?
     
  5. Steven Green

    Steven Green

    Jul 25, 2001
    Pacific NW
    I still have a big gooey spot in my heart for that amp. The only amp I've played with that much low end was an Eden WT series, but this is much more versatile. I am digging how I cut through with my DB 680, but the Mesa had more low end for sure! Glad you got a wicked bad tone Hugh! And yes, that compressor is, without a doubt, nothing short of amazing!:cool:
     
  6. It never fails to amaze me why manufacturers put 180hz eq points in their graphics. That is the most useless, unuseable frequency I've ever come across.
     
  7. Damn right. What the hell were they thinking?? I chastisted them a bit in my mail to them (because I love them!) about their chosen freq. points. My old 400+ was 40-100-250-etc...each one exactly where I wanted them. This M-2000....stupid. I have TWO 50 hz boosts on the tube side...? I need a 40 or 30 hz for my 5 string. Dumb.
     
  8. Hugh Jazz

    Hugh Jazz

    Sep 13, 2001
    Atlanta, GA
    Two 50 Hz boosts? I'm guessing that the rotatry knob is centered at 50?
     
  9. Yeah, its like 4-700-50hz on the tube side. I'm sorry, my amp isn't here so I can't tell you the FET side. I have the marked on my amp so I can know what the heck is going on. Sometimes I love this rig...sometimes I friggin' hate it. I jammed yesterday and my band mates actually chided me for spending way to much time on it. Another day of lame tone. Bleah.
     
  10. Hugh Jazz

    Hugh Jazz

    Sep 13, 2001
    Atlanta, GA
     
  11. Your suggested freq. points would be exactly what I'd want. Have you made any head or tail of that supposed M-2000 schematic preamp yet Hugh? I want to change these if I can?? What is your opinion?
     
  12. Hugh Jazz

    Hugh Jazz

    Sep 13, 2001
    Atlanta, GA
    I have no idea what all that wiring and circuits mean, so I'm pretty much useless when it comes to modding. :( But hopefully some of the other guys in here, possibly bgavin and MikeyD, can help us.

    Come on guys, we know you know all this! :) :p
     
  13. I just scored the entire M-2000 schematic for any interested; email me for it (it's big!)
     
  14. Hugh Jazz

    Hugh Jazz

    Sep 13, 2001
    Atlanta, GA
    Dang...I hope we can get something productive out of all this!
     
  15. After my Mesa factory tour last month Tim MacKee kindly buzzed me up and told me how to mod the 50 hz EQ slider converting it to a 25 hz. This will be a great mod for you 5 stringers out there....It is so easy too. You just locate the little yellow 3.3mf cap and solder another (piggy back if you will) on top of it, making sure you match the +/- sides of course. This cuts the value in half from 50 to 25. Good enough for me!
     
  16. Hugh Jazz

    Hugh Jazz

    Sep 13, 2001
    Atlanta, GA
    Could you take pics, if at all possible? Also, how effective is the result?

    The main thing I would mod is that damn 180 band. I wonder if soldering a smaller cap could bring it down to 120 Hz. Hmmmm.......
     
  17. No by soldering the cap atop in parallel all you could hope for is to cut it in have (180-90hz) You'd have to take apart the amp to be able to access the circuit board from underneath to actually replace the cap...you could go there if you wanted but i'm not ready for that myself.
     
  18. Hugh Jazz

    Hugh Jazz

    Sep 13, 2001
    Atlanta, GA
    That's what I meant. If soldering the same size cap on top of the existing one will reduce it in half, maybe a soldering a smaller one on top will reduce it by a smaller amount?

    I really have no idea. Haven't taken a physics class in a while.
     
  19. I am not that well versed either..it's been a very long time since my Grd.9 electricity class. You might run into problems with one cab working allot harder than the other? like running a 4ohm cab and an 8 ohm cab in parallel...? I don't know....
     
  20. Hugh Jazz

    Hugh Jazz

    Sep 13, 2001
    Atlanta, GA
    Oh by the way, MS: could you tell me the frequency centers of the rotary knobs on the SS channel?

    Thanks. :)