Graphite neck reinforcement gluing

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Geoff St. Germaine, Apr 17, 2005.

  1. What is normally used to hold graphite bars into wood? I was thinking of using epoxy, but I'm not sure what would be suitable for this.
  2. tekhna


    Nov 7, 2004
    I believe some kind of silicon glue is usually used.
  3. Suburban


    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    From what I read, the preferred glue is epoxi.
    It's not very easy to find something else that bonds well to both materails...
  4. gyancey


    Mar 25, 2002
    Austin, TX
    Make that good epoxy, like West Systems or System 3. I use Smith's All Wood Epoxy. The 5-minute stuff from the hardware store is basically useless.
  5. Thanks for the info. I'll check out this Smith's stuff.
  6. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    You could also try PC-7, it's in many hardware stores, very strong, and not at all like the 5-minute syringe stuff. Great adhesion to everything I've used it for so far, except for one tool handle which was probably PE, which is one of the few things listed on the label (if I had read it beforehand) as not suitable. IME definitely works on steel, copper, fiberglass, linoleum, and wood. Sandable also.
  7. I got some of the West System stuff from a local woodworking shop. I'll see how this stuff works.
  8. Basschair

    Basschair .............. Staff Member Supporting Member

    Feb 5, 2004
    Stockton, Ca
    Hey Geoff, how did it work out?
  9. The West System epoxy worked great. Unlike the epoxies I'm used to at work, this stuff is very runny, which made it very nice for gluing in the graphite. It also sands quite readily, so the few undulations along the edges of the graphite cam out easily.

    Even though it's pretty expensive, a little went a long way... there is very little waste with this epoxy unlike the more viscous epoxies that I've worked with. I imagine that most of the other epoxies that are for the same application as the West System stuff are similar.
  10. noahbass


    Sep 12, 2008
    guitar builder
    I realize this is an old thread but...

    I use thick cyanoacrylate. It's way quicker than epoxy and probably cheaper.

    Also it works great. I had to go back through some old necks (old tenon, we stopped using) and "harvest" some graphite from them and it was a bitch to get the graphite out so that says it's strong enough to me.
  11. Arx


    Jan 22, 2008
    I think cyanoacrylate is probably more expensive. The epoxy's quite pricey, but comes in pretty big cans. When I did the same job on my bass I mixed about 1oz of epoxy, which was plenty. The west systems kit I bought was about $75 IIRC, and has a 32oz of Resin, and a small can of hardener. I figure I used about $2 of epoxy to do the job, and it definitely turned out better than I could have done with CA.

    The edge guide on my router slipped a bit and I cut the slot about 1mm to wide for about half of its depth. the epoxy is thin enough that I just dumped it on, and it self leveled, filling the gap nicely. I don't think that would work as well with CA.
  12. jordan_frerichs


    Jan 20, 2008
    HAHA i had to use that stuff to put my bloodwood coverplate back together. thanx for the note
  13. dave251

    dave251 Wendler Instruments

    Feb 5, 2004
    Lawrence, KS
    I think the trick is a TIGHT fit for the bar, then THIN CA glued leached into the joint. Should suck right in. But as with any wood joint, a TIGHT fit is absolutely essential.
  14. Arx


    Jan 22, 2008
    Yeah, but if you're sloppy, epoxy's a better solution. ;)

    Another thing to keep in mind, is that CA is pretty weak to shearing forces, Ideally, if you cut the depth perfectly, it will have nowhere to shear to anyway, but I'd still use epoxy, even if I did cut it perfectly. Just my opinion though. YMMV
  15. Rodent

    Rodent Supporting Member Commercial User

    Dec 20, 2004
    Upper Left Corner (Seattle)
    Player-Builder-Founder: Regenerate Guitar Works
    the two graphite stiffening bars in my necks are epoxied into place. I'm fond of System3 products, but other brands work equally well

    all the best,