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Harke 3500 head 3 questions

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by audienceofone, Dec 18, 2006.

  1. I did some quick searching and found a bunch on the Harke 3500 head, but not quite what I was looking for, so here goes:

    1. Is the compression any good on this head, I have used it at a low settings but haven't noticed the difference, I am not that great a player so I would thing that it would even out my rough playing if it was working correctly.

    2. I play Christian rock at chuch (Edge service) what are you rockers (non Metal) using for EQ settings?

    3. This Head is being left at church with the cab 4x10 harke also, but the master volume know is broken off. Anyone tell me how difficult it would be to replace the volume pot?

    Thanks in advance.
  2. BurningSkies

    BurningSkies CRAZY BALDHEAD Supporting Member

    Feb 20, 2005
    Syracuse NY
    Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars

    The compression, which is more of a limiter anyway, is pretty useless. Turn it off and if you need compression, get a pedal or board for it.

    I'd not sweat the master volume pot...if you get it cranked all the way up that is. My 3500 has been running with the master all the way up on full for over 10 years...and that's with it in perfect working order.
  3. Thanks for the response. I was guessing that about the compression.

    The problem with the volume, is that I have no idea where it is at, since it isn't my head
  4. Kael


    Dec 26, 2004
    Oklahoma City
    Actually the compressor isn't all that bad in very light doses. If the compressor light is turning red at any point however, you are probably sounding like poo. When I used a 3500 back in the day, I usually kept the compressor knob at about 9 o'clock or so.

    New knobs are a fairly easy fix. If you aren't comfy fixing it yourself, any repair shop should be able to fix it in about 15 minutes for dirt cheap. I actually prefer to keep the master knob down a bit and set the preamp level to where I like it, using the master knob as a master volume control.

    As for EQ, that really depends on your instruments/cabs/playing style/overall mix/etc. In general I used a light mid boost with flat cabs. When I used a hartke 410XL with the 3500, I had to scoop the bejesus out of my mids to flatten that cab out (the 410XL is a mid only machine). The result was a fairly flat sound, just a very round about way of getting there. I'd just start flat, or with a light mid bump, and tweak from there.
  5. the compressor never goes red, I have it way down, around the 3 mark if I remember right and the cab is a 4x10 harke transporter. The guy that owns them has the lows and highs right at the 0 mark but the mids are really boosted, very close to the top of the EQ.
    I basically play with finger rather than pick, and use a Schecter Stilleto Elite 5 with passive pickups but an active preamp, I have DR low riders on it.
  6. Kael


    Dec 26, 2004
    Oklahoma City
    I probably wouldn't boost my mids quite that much, but that sounds like pretty much what I was hinting around at.

    You might try cutting the bass/treble a bit and lowering those mids some. You should wind up with a comparable EQ curve and you'll usually get a cleaner signal.
  7. I have a 3500 head (one of the older ones that says it has a MOSFET output section), or rather I have an 1155 Combo that contains the 3500 head (plus 1x15" and 1x5" tweeter). Really good amp, which I use for practice and quite a few small to medium gigs. Quite capable in the loudness department.

    If I were you, I'd at least want to reference where the Master volume pot is set, just 'cause I'm that way. With my Hartke (and a model 7000 I used to have), I usually ran the Tube pre just slightly higher than the SS pre (and hardly ever higher than "4". That gave me a good mix of the sounds each makes that I like. Then the master would generally be set around that same number for final output control, up or down as needed. I get a pretty quiet signal to noise ratio with those settings.

    As far as EQ, with the bass I'm currently using (Ibanez BTB405), the graphic is pretty flat, with a mild hump starting at 1 kHz, into the next range (3 kHz?), and peaking at the next (6 kHz?), just to give it a bit more high end (very lightly boosted). No boosting of the contour knobs, but I do roll off the low contour some (supposed to be 100 Hz, shelving I'd assume), to take care of some rooms' tendencies to be boomy. If I determine by ear that it's a different frequency or will be better handled by it, I'll use the lower graphic points to tame it. I play rock (not metal), funk, light jazz, classic R&B, country with it. By the way (if curious), the High contour is supposed to be 10 kHz, so it's kind of up there, not all that useful, normally.
  8. wolfs


    Jan 18, 2006
    If you leave the master at a high level and control the volume with the preamp knobs you should have more headroom... worked for me on my 3500... good little amp, and the older mosfet ones were cheap, too. (I don't know what they're selling the big cabinet ones for now.)

    I never used the compression on it, so I can't tell how it works... I'd rather control the loudness through my finger attack (I don't play with a pick ever).

    As far as EQ settings, I usually cut the mids and boosted the low end a little and boosted the high end a bit (kinda crooked smiley face). But! I was in a band with one guitarist who had a really treble-y sound so the low end of the band's sound was open for me and the bass drum... if you're playing with a denser mix than that, cut the lows a little or leave them flat... boost the mids as needed... play around with it, the graphic EQ is fun. Enjoy.
  9. BurningSkies

    BurningSkies CRAZY BALDHEAD Supporting Member

    Feb 20, 2005
    Syracuse NY
    Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars

    I had problems with my 3500 when running the preamps up past about 10 o'clock..they clipped out and often did it on stage. Make the power amp work and use the pres as your volume. It'll keep your sound cleaner and more precise. I've started to use my 3500 again, as while I love my Mesa 400+, I hate to move it and I find myself knob tweaking a LOT more with the 400+.

    The ol' mosfet 3500's are a great 'secret' bargain of the bass world.
  10. Kael


    Dec 26, 2004
    Oklahoma City
    I used to have a 1155 combo. Those things are suprisingly good. I have a much higher dollar rig that sounds far better nowadays, but, especially for the price, that 1155 was a great combo. I would occasionally couple it with a 410XL when I needed to stun small animals to death.

    +1 on the older MOSFET hartke heads. I can't for the life of me figure out why Hartke would have changed from that design. The newer heads are definitely inferior to the older ones.
  11. The problem with the volume, is that I have no idea where it is at, since it isn't my head[/QUOTE]

    Just turn the broken knob(assuming u can turn it) all the way off-& mark w/ texta-at least U have a referance point. possible?????
  12. Jeff Martinez

    Jeff Martinez

    May 10, 2005
    Denver, CO
    I've always liked the compression on my 3500. Keeping around "3" is a good setting.

    When I used the onboard EQ, I had a slight scoop. I came to that by actually testing sound while going through the full range of each fader. Yeah it took a while, but it was worth for an anal git like me.

    -Here's where I hijack the thread for my own gain-:bag:

    My master volume pot has ceased to work. It turns, but the volume does not change. I could probably live with this if it wasn't stuck on "2". Does anybody have any experience replacing something like this? :help:

  13. Just turn the broken knob(assuming u can turn it) all the way off-& mark w/ texta-at least U have a referance point. possible?????[/QUOTE]

    Unfortunately, it doesn't turn. I even tried with a pair of pliers :rollno:
  14. BassyBill

    BassyBill The smooth moderator... Gold Supporting Member

    Mar 12, 2005
    West Midlands UK
    The compression on my HA5000 is actually useable when you realise that it needs very fine tweaking. As you go turn from zero clockwise, it suddenly jumps from very little discernible effect to evrything squashed flat - somewhere around there are some useable settings, say between about 10 and 11 o'clock on my particular unit.

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