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Hartke 3500 head + Ashdown MAG 410T cab = good choice?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by BadTaste, Jul 14, 2005.

  1. BadTaste


    Jul 14, 2005

    I'm in a 3-piece rock/punk band and looking to buy an amp and cab. I play a Schecter Custom-4 active bass and currently use a Peavey TNT 115 Combo. The peavey seems just about loud enough to be heard over drums and guitar but i could do with a bit more headroom.

    my budget is around £600 for head + cab.

    Any opinions on whether a Hartke 3500 head + Ashdown MAG 410T Deep cab would be a good combination?

    my main concern is that a 4x10 cab wouldn't be able to push out enough low end (i tune to C#, G#, C#, F#) and i dont want to fork out for an extra 1x15

    any suggestions / help would be great :)
  2. vintageampeg

    vintageampeg Supporting Member

    Feb 2, 2005
    I don't know about the drop tuning, but the 410T is surprisingly DEEEEP. I love mine - my MAG300H head arrives Saturday. Can't wait to hear them both together.
  3. Jazzin'

    Jazzin' ...Bluesin' and Funkin'

    I don't like Hartke, but thats just my opinion. I'd recommend the Ashdown mag300. It would match well with another Ashdown.
  4. BadTaste


    Jul 14, 2005
    cheers guys

    I was thinking about getting the mag300h, how much difference in power would there be with one being 300W and the other 350W?

    However, apparently the Hartke is 350 watts into 4ohms, but only 240watts into 8ohms. Would this be a similar case with the ashdown head...or does it have 8ohm and 4ohm outputs so each will produce 300w RMS? how much louder do you think the full ashdown 4x10 rig would be in comparison to the peavey TNT?
  5. I use a Ha3500 with Ashdown Mini48 and Mini15. They match up well and sound great - nice and deep - so I expect a "bigger" cab would be fine.

    The Ashdown heads sound a bit warmer and fuller than the Hartke though??
  6. alot louder , more power + more speaker area = more air moved =more rumble!!

    as for the watts thing , it depends on the ohms on the ashdown cab
  7. BadTaste


    Jul 14, 2005
    nice equation, common sense really i suppose

    the ashdown MAG 410T DEEP cab is 8 ohms and now rated at 450W instead of 350W. will that make any difference as the head powering it will only be about 300W?

    Think i might go for the full ashdown setup
  8. the 350 watts of hartke and the 300 watts of ashdown will be very comparable... different manufacturers can produce different RMS outputs for the same power section so really it isn't worth worrying about.

    i can't comment on how well that cab will handle down that low but maybe you could try it out in a shop?

    you could also consider going used... you'll get more of a saving on the head and can score yourself some more power. i got a 300 watt trace of ebay for £250 a year ago and i'm extreamely pleased with it. i was considering the mag and the 3500. trace ratings are VERY conservative. i've played 600 watt heads with less headroom than my trace. if you're getting decent stuff second hand it's generally been looked after pretty well!
  9. crud19


    Sep 26, 2001
    The Hartke 3500s are notorious for bad solder joints (just do a search on this site or Google). They are not bad sounding heads, but I would recommend something else if you have the funds and opportunity.
  10. BadTaste


    Jul 14, 2005
    Well i decided to go for the Ashdown MAG 300 Head and MAG 410T Cab. Tried them out in practice yesterday and they seemed to cope a lot better than the old peavey TNT.

    The sound definately cuts through more than the peavey, to be heard over the drums and guitar the input and output knobs were set to 12 o' clock, not a great deal of headroom but just about enough. The 4x10 seems to struggle on the low C#'s and sounds like it could really do with a 1x15 extension for the low low end.

    One thing i have noticed is that there is no built in compressor (at least not one that can be adjusted). Can anyone recommend a decent compressor / preamp / peak limiter? I play 99% with a pick so i think it would come in handy...
  11. The Nanny

    The Nanny

    Dec 23, 2004
    Ottawa, Canada
    If you go the way of Hartke, get the 3500A, not the 3500. The poor case design of the 3500 causes knobs to break off in transit, even if you get Hartke's case for it. The 3500A doesn't have this problem.
  12. i believe it is actually 350w continuous still. i've been looking at them to add to my g-k 1001 rbII 115 combo.