Help Identifying a Sunn 2x15

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by LoPan787, Apr 28, 2012.


  1. LoPan787

    LoPan787

    Feb 16, 2012
    NKY
    Thanks, edbass. Oh well. It's $600 I still have sitting in my bank then. Still ticked off, but... there are other good Sunn amps out there to be found.
     
  2. edbass

    edbass

    Nov 8, 2004
    I don't think posting it here made any difference.
    This post was up 4 hours before yours;

    http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f171/sunn-sorado-dayton-oh-877611/

    and there are people who scour CL hourly looking for gear. You just have to move real fast, and even then you'll sometimes get scooped.
    I picked up a super clean Sorado head (no cab) on Wednesday, it's in Southwest OH and it will be on the market as soon as it's gone through. It's likely destined for eBay, where I imagine it will do $500 or better, but if you are interested maybe something can be worked out. PM me; I don't really want to deal with those lowballs and trade offers I mentioned in my earlier post... :D
     
  3. LoPan787

    LoPan787

    Feb 16, 2012
    NKY
    Damn! These things move crazy fast! Haha I had no clue about that.

    Let me see on that Sorado Head... if it goes before, though, no hard feelings hahaha
     
  4. Bongolation

    Bongolation

    Nov 9, 2001
    California
    No Bogus Endorsements
    This is as close to that as I find, 40/20/20/20.
    Later: Is this the one?

    Yeah, I could never find a 30mFd/600V Atom or anything else. The 30mFd/600V you mention is the first I've ever seen.

    I haven't looked at the schematic for a couple of years, but IIRC, the working circuit voltage at that cap comes pretty close to the rated maximum. The Sorado I have apparently had that part of the multicap fail in c.1970 as it had been replaced with a 20mFd/600V Atom. I've been reluctant to replace it with a lower-rated capacitor.

    Yeah, I found it... The 30mFd/525V section (which apparently failed on mine) seems to be taking a true voltage of 500V, kinda close. :meh:

    FWIW, mine was one of the ones supplied with 6550s instead of KT88s.

    [Later:] I also discovered "Authenticaps" -- have you used them? Pricey...
     
  5. Marko 1

    Marko 1 Supporting Member

    Mar 9, 2009
    N.E. Ohio
    When a good deal is known to the public, the guy who comes first with the cash is likely the guy who’s gonna get it… even if he has to offer more.

    I’m afraid you really didn’t have much of a chance.
     
  6. johnk_10

    johnk_10 vintage bass nut Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 16, 2008
    Washington, Utah
    John K Custom Basses
  7. edbass

    edbass

    Nov 8, 2004
    "Authenticaps" is the trade name for the caps detailed on the KTL data sheet I attached to my post this morning. I've used a few in the past several years.

    The Model KTL13, is a direct physical and value replacement but rated for more voltage than the OEM.
    As I also mentioned earlier, voltage can be an issue. Even though my schematics show "500" also, I've measured 550V+ and heard reliable reports of B+ in excess of 580V on a Mk III at startup.
     
  8. Bongolation

    Bongolation

    Nov 9, 2001
    California
    No Bogus Endorsements
    I'm reading of failures on this CE cap when replacing the Dynaco in HiFi forums, apparently because of higher voltages going through the 30mFd section, and apparently that's what killed the original in mine when it was nearly new.

    A 600V rating would be more comforting to me, which is why I stalled in doing the cap job when I got this thing out of storage a few years ago. Then I got bogged down in conflicting advice and got disgusted and blew the whole thing off. :meh:
     
  9. johnk_10

    johnk_10 vintage bass nut Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 16, 2008
    Washington, Utah
    John K Custom Basses
    i've never had a problem with the CE's, but i did have a 60's Spectrum I that was putting out coming 555V coming out of the GZ34 at startup. the stock 40 year old cap handled it fine and the new CE that i rplaced it with one did too, but that is cutting it a bit close. i ended up using a copper cap WR4 to bring it down to around 510V just to give the cap a little more 'room'.
     
  10. LoPan787

    LoPan787

    Feb 16, 2012
    NKY
    Truth. Oh well. I've got some other things in the works now. :D
     
  11. edbass

    edbass

    Nov 8, 2004
    A "this millennium" solution would be to use the SDS Labs Capacitor Board popular as a mod on Dyna Mark III's, which takes you to 630V and 60uf on all sections. Not stock of course, but effective.
    I put on one of my 2000Ss a few years back when I intended to use it as a primary gig amp; playing at "who knows?" voltages at various venues rather than be possibly crippled by a failed can cap. It also tightened up the bottom a little; not that it was an issue to start with.
    That was about the same time I hooked up with the Reeves gear, so the SDS 2000S has only seen occasional use, but it works fantastic.

    Plenty of real estate to work with in a 2000S;

    DSC000020.jpg

    But, I'll bet you could fit one in your Sorado, maybe even mount it on the bottom of a transformer.
    As an interesting side note; look at the back side of the control panel on that 2000S and you can see how easily it could have been a 1000s, 1200S, or 1500S instead.

    Of course as John makes reference to, I also have a 1968 200S with the original Mallory can cap that still performs flawlessly after 45 years. Dead silent and strong.
     
  12. I did not buy the rig. And I would like for you to take your comment down about me taking it out from under you. As edbass has said you were not the first even on this board to post about it.

    I can say that after Chris posted about it I emailed the seller. He responded that it was still for sale. I PM a friend about the ad. Then seen you were looking at it and backed off. ( I have nice vintage gear thought I give you a shot). Them the seller was nice enough to email me later telling me it was sold.

    Then I see here I got slammed by you. That would of been better handled in a PM.
     
  13. Bongolation

    Bongolation

    Nov 9, 2001
    California
    No Bogus Endorsements
    The last time I used this thing after I got it out of storage many years ago, it was still working with the original multicap and the c.1970 20mFd/600V Atom replacing the blown 30mFd part of the multicap, but I didn't want to push it.

    Anyway, it looks as though it'll take $70-$80 and some hassle to recap it with either the SDS or Authenticap option. I'm somewhat inclined to leave this for my executors to deal with. ;)
     
  14. Primary

    Primary TB Assistant

    Here are some related products that TB members are talking about. Clicking on a product will take you to TB’s partner, Primary, where you can find links to TB discussions about these products.

     
    Sep 18, 2021

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