Help me to choose (DIY cabs content)

You should be modeling the drivers in a program like WinISD Alpha Pro to see the low frequency response and maximum SPL, while using the manufacturer driver data sheets to see the midrange and high frequency response. IMO you should not be considering using any of those with a tweeter, as none have adequate off-axis response above 2kHz, while domes and piezos aren't good below roughly 3kHz at best.

 

I'd be looking at good HF drivers if these will double for PA use. The Selenium D220Ti is one, there are others that can be passed down at 2khz to meet the 12's. Or a crossfired piezo array like Bill's cabs use, in multiples, again crossed at 2k. That route likely be cheaper and you can switch some of them off for bass cab use. The trick when forgoing a dedicated mid is to get an HF compliment that can reach low enough to meet the woofer, at least acceptably off axis, not just on axis.

 

That one doesn't have enough spl to run with anything but the bp102, but it might work there. You want to pass it an octave above that impedance peak it has around 1200hz. The bp102 is scooped in the mids, that would have to be compensated for with eq. For PA doublers, I'd be looking at higher spl stuff than the bp102. It's lowend extension isn't necessary in a PA main, trade some of that for more SPL.

 

why not try building a BFM Jack 10 or 210? I've heard they get great efficiency and aren't too hard to lug around either:

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/Jack.html

 

^^^ +1. For what you’re looking for - you really should checkout BFM’s and the fearful DIY loudspeakers.

 

to be honest, I know little about the jack 10, other than that I'm thinking of building a couple of jacks, probably either 210s or 112s, and that the design somehow improves efficiency. Other than that, I don't know too much about the topic given that I haven't even bought plans yet, but from my understanding they're good PA cabs that can also be used for bass. Also, from my understanding, you can use different drivers in them, as in the cabinets can support a number of drivers as opposed to being tailored to a specific driver.

 

I know the OP is asking about 10" cabs and is thinking about designing them himself, but...

I've built and currently use BFM Jack10s and fEARful 12/6s.

For someone with little to no prior woodworking experience, the fEARfuls (or any retangular box cab) would be easier to build than the Jacks. Although, buying the precut kits from Speaker Hardware makes building either of them much simpler.
Both BFM and greenboy have dedicated forums full of experienced builders willing to help first-timers.
The Jacks are very efficient cabs, especially in the midrange. The fEARfuls have quite a bit more going on in the deep lows.
The Jacks are smaller and lighter than the fEARfuls, but the 12/6 isn't much (if any) bigger than most 210 cabs.
The Jacks can work with a few different drivers, whereas the fEARfuls are designed around specific woofers and mid drivers.

Purely my subjective opinions:
I prefer my fEARfuls for bass guitar because I like the low end extension. If you don't need/want that low end, you may find the Jacks to your liking.
My Jacks work better as (light, very portable) PA speakers because I built my fEARfuls as dedicated bass cabs and didn't include tweeters. If you don't mind the bulk and weight, the fEARful 12/6/1 (with tweeter) would probably be good PA cabs.

 

Neither the 12/6 nor the Jack10 are "big cabs". I can fit a pair of each on the backseat of my car.

Both are "front-firing cabs". The (quasi?) horn in the Jack adds midrange sensitivity.

Although the Jacks a more complicated than a simple rectangular box, I managed to build mine without having any finish carpentry experience.

 

Unlike commercial cabs the low frequency response of the J10, J12 and J15 really are very different. Those loaded with twelves really do go lower than those loaded with tens, while those loaded with fifteens go lower still. If the J10 doesn't go as low as you'd like then you'd like the J12 better, while the J15 goes as low as a direct radiator loaded with a 3012LF, but still can run one-way if your tone isn't midrange prominent.

 

I meant no disrespect, Bill.
I was just sharing my experience and cabs, and I have no personal experience with the J12 or J15.

Edit: Would it have been OK to mention which drivers are suitable for your J10?

 

Once we get settled in the new place here, Jack12's are my first build, with full arrays and will be my new fullrange PA cabs. I really don't need them as bass cabs, but with a touch of eq and switching out maybe 1/2 the tweeters, they would make nice ones. They're about as loud as you're going to get without getting into a lot more complicated builds. I have the plans for the 12's and 15's. While they're are more involved than making a cube, they're really not difficult at all. Those and the Titan subs are on the easier end for construction as far as Bill's stuff goes.

I guess we should start by determining your spl and lowend extension needs first, then come up with a build to match that. I assume if you're looking at single driver direct radiators, big spl may not be such a concern? Are these mainly bass cabs that'll work for PA in a pinch or vice versa or do you want true doublers that will be very good at both? That amounts to making a good PA cab with low extension, or conversely, a good bass cab with good dispersion and top end extension. Amp power available in both bass and PA configuration matters too.

 

No problem. BTW, I use J10 Lites, for my PA, J12 Lite for my bass.

 

Depends on the eq you have available. Bp102's reach deep, but are low spl to start with, and are scooped a little more around the 400-800hz octave. Might make OK bass cabs, but I think you could do better for a vocal doubler. I don't know what stuff costs over there. Celestions "green label" series are allright bass guitar drivers, would run hotter than the BP102 and might make a better vocal doubler with the right HF component. Better mids.

As far as cost, you usually can't do it cheaper than a commercial offering outside of a simple one-way driver in a box. You diy to get something that isn't available, or to get superior quality to what's out there with a similair investment in components....if you don't put a price on your own time and effort.

Or just because you enjoy it, that's fine too. I'm just now getting to where I can make better stuff than I could buy commercially, design it to fit my own personal situation/convenience, etc. But I don't price my time. To me, it's enjoyment, not work.