1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

Help sanding gloss finish off maple neck!!

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by IamJeffBASS, Jul 22, 2012.

  1. IamJeffBASS


    Jul 22, 2012
    Hi guys. I recently purchased a second hand fender jazz bass with a maple neck. The neck has a gloss finish and it makes my hand stick to the neck when i slide around, so I want to sand off the gloss.

    Now, I`ve read that the grey (ultra fine) Scotch Brite Pads are great for this. However, I only have the maroon (medium i guess) pads available to me.

    So, my question is: Will using the maroon pads have and adverse effect on my instrument, or am I just worrying too much?

    Thanks for the help.
  2. I'm not familiar with the maroon scotch-brites but if they claim it's a medium grade, it should be OK. You know that you don't sand the finish off, you just knock the gloss off. I takes maybe 20 seconds of buffing,
  3. IamJeffBASS


    Jul 22, 2012
    thats the thing. I dont have access to the fine grade ones. only the general purpose (medium grade) ones. i want to know if using those is a bad idea
  4. Steveaux

    Steveaux Supporting Member

    Jul 1, 2008
    The Wilds of NW Pa.
    What you have will work just fine.

    It's more a matter of pressure than grit. Rub it lightly, in full-length passes. A couple trips over the length of the neck, check the feel, repeat as desired.
  5. curbowkid

    curbowkid Guest

    Jun 27, 2011
    Brooklyn, New York
    Super high grade steel wool will work too. Just remember to either remove the neck, or cover all electronics before and during buffing. They sell it at home depot, it's like #0000 grade. Works great
  6. IamJeffBASS


    Jul 22, 2012
    alright cool. Thanks guys.
  7. Disagree. I dpon't care how careful you are. it can be difficult if not impossible to catch all the steel dust. Either way, I would not use steel wool just simply as a precaution, and sicne the Scotch-Brite pad is such a cheap adn easily available and viable alternative, why bother with something that you have to do all that extra unnecessary work?
  8. Jordan S.

    Jordan S.

    Mar 25, 2012
    NSW, Australia
    Blacksheep Effects Pedals
    I use 0000 steel wool, I pull the neck off though, you don't want any of that steel dust near your pickups, you'll never get it off...
  9. If you use steel wool, just position the bass vertically with the body up and the headstock down, while you use the steel wool.

    Gravity takes care of the steel wool particles.
  10. I just did this using 400 wet/dry sandpaper and it worked perfectly.
  11. gigslut


    Dec 13, 2011
    St Louis, Mo
    Green Scotch Brites are fine for clear coated necks.

    Here's one I did.
  12. etoncrow

    etoncrow (aka Greg Harman, the curmudgeon with a conundrum)

    I use a bowling ball 400 grit resurfacing pad to remove material from the neck; I use the 1200 grit to wipe my neck down after playing. They are non-ferrous and will last forever...
  13. if you do this is it possible to get the glossiness back with like scratch x or something?
  14. gigslut


    Dec 13, 2011
    St Louis, Mo
    Don't know what scratch x is. The resulting finish with the scotch brite is satin or matte. Ther are no visible scratches on my necks from this technique. You could buff or wet sand it to a higher gloss, but the scotch brite will have taken off about half the poly or more if you worked it for any time at all. You could get it to shine more, but it won't be as deep or glossy as the original finish. You can go back over with some high gloss lacquer, but why undo what you just did?
  15. gigslut


    Dec 13, 2011
    St Louis, Mo
    Is there a Home Depot near you? They have the grey ones in the paint department.
  16. Coolhandjjl

    Coolhandjjl Supporting Member

    Oct 13, 2010
    3M has two different lines of Scotch-Brite pads, there are Scotch-Brite Hand Pads, and Scotch-Brite Pads for Woodworking. The colors are different strengths in the different lines.

    Here's a PDF download of a comparison chart:

    If you are unsure, start with the equivalent of 1500 grit, and get a few lower ones. IMO, 400 may be too aggressive, and is a one-way treatment.

    To get the glossiness back, try Meguiar's Scratch X. It's what I use for general hand buffing of guitar bodies. NuFinish Scratch Doctor is also good, a bit milder if you are unsure.

    Then polish it off with Zymol. Good as new.
  17. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

    Dec 21, 2002
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Thanks for the link / chart! I just acquired a maple neck which has some major dings and need to minimize just short of stripping to the bare wood....yes, it's that bad. I wonder if 3M sells something along the lines of a sample pack?

    Tip: I use the ScotchBrite pads in the kitchen for a week or two before swiping them for the workshop. They conform better once broken-in but retain most of their grit.

  18. Zooberwerx

    Zooberwerx Gold Supporting Member

    Dec 21, 2002
    Virginia Beach, VA
    I've used an aggressively modified version of the techniques described above to minimize scarred finishes. Works well and postpones the need for a full re-fin. In the past couple of years, I've run across at least two necks that were chipped, dinged, pitted, sliced, gouged, etc to the point of needing sanded and re-finished. Having nothing to lose, I removed the necks (gotta love bolt-ons!) and attacked them with #000 steel wool...just the right amount of bite. You have to check your progress frequently. Once the defects were leveled, I repeated the process with #0000 steel wool but this time applying a thin application of BriWax (I guess just about any wax will work) before the rub-out. Repeat 2-3 times and you're good to go. Word of caution: the neck's wood grain appearance will change drastically, especially on the oblique shoulders near the body, depending on the amount of material removed.


Share This Page