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Help with a crack

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by BigWig Will, May 8, 2003.

  1. OK, so 3 years ago I gathered together my meager earnings from my summer job and bought a Squier Bass pack, which came with a Squier Affinity P-Bass.

    Now, in 2003, that is still my one and only bass. For 3 years it's gone to and from all sorts of places, barely protected in its thin gig bag and bumped and banged around by and jerk that messes around with it (including me). Oh sure, I've had GAS, but my parents raised me frugal and I didn't want to get a new bass until I felt like I deserved it...plus I had no money and I didn't want to get a job.

    So here's the problem, the years of abuse have caused cracks to form at the neck joint. They're faint, but I don't think they're just cracks in the finish because the one nearest the lower horn extends along the back of the bass.

    Now I'm going off to my summer job in a month or so (I'm planning on taking my bass with me) and after that I'll have enough bread to get myself a new ax.

    So the question I pose to my TB brethren is: Is there anything I can do to keep the cracks from getting any larger, or possible fix them? They're not large and they haven't gotten any larger as of late...but I'd rather not take my chances.

    Any advice is welcome. Thanks!
  2. Trevorus


    Oct 18, 2002
    Urbana, IL
    post some clear pics of the cracks if possible, and we might be able to tell you what you can do.
  3. Here's the most severe crack. on the lower horn.
  4. On the upper horn.
  5. Killdar


    Dec 16, 2002
    Portland Maine
    I can't tell if it's more than a finish crack, since my bass has a rather large finish crack on the bottom where I dropped it on the ground in its gig bag, and it's quite large....and I don't think wood would crack like that. Doesn't seem like it's any more than the finish, but I'd still be careful.
  6. Thor

    Thor Gold Supporting Member In Memoriam

    I would try to check the depth of the crack.

    A spark plug gauge with very thin blades might be useful, or extremely thin sewing needles from a needle kit.

    If it is surface only or not more than 1/4", you can fill to stabilize this, and keep out the humidity.

    We odd types that make plastic and wood models often fill in gaps and seams with gap-filling cyanoacrylate [ Super Glue ]. The gap filling kind is more viscous, takes a few more minutes to set up.
    I use 'Zap-a-Gap' CA+ in the green label bottle.
    It is commonly available at hobby shops. Just buy the smallest size. Store it in the refrigerator when not in use. [ It is also useful in stabilizing your pirate cat's paws to non-porous surfaces.]

    Let it dry for a few hours and it is a sandable repair. Use 220 grit to sand, reapply if there are any pits until you have a smooth surface. Then finish sand with 400 grit to smooth finish. Apply a color coat to match surrounding area if necessary. Then touch up the finish with the gloss or semi - gloss Testors clear enamel depending on your finish and let dry.

    If you like, you can buff the guitar with FUTURE or some other polish or wax it to even the finish when that is dry, if necessary.

    If the guitar crack is very deep, open heart surgery may be required from you local bass surgeon at the Squier Hospital.

    Hope that helps.

    edit. looking back at your picture, I would take off the string, unbolt the neck, and inspect there as well. Then decide if the minor repair is appropriate and do it with the neck off.

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