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Help with bad ass 2 bridge

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by smalltownriots, Jun 9, 2005.

  1. smalltownriots


    Jun 9, 2005
    Hi sorry if someone has asked this before, or if this seems a little idiotic, however, im getting one of leo quans bad ass 2 bridges in the mail. Ive got a fender Jazz mex standard (bridge is broke), now i know its a "direct replacement", but i was wondering about setting it up?

    Is it a case of just unscrewing the screws taking off the old bridge, then screwing the new one on and adding strings and wahey im off, or what?

    is there other stuff i need to deal with? Basically can someone talk me through this.

    Sorry to seem like a moron i hope you guys can help me out. thanks


    p.s im also nervous about with the bridge because of that wire (the earth?) from the electronics under the bridge, that goes through a small hole through the body. Do i just keep leave that loose with only the bridge tightened down over it? i dont wanna blow myself up or anything.
  2. Mystic Michael

    Mystic Michael Hip No Ties

    Apr 1, 2004
    New York, NY
    Ummmm....why dont' you just have a pro do the installation & set-up for you? Someone who's had the experience and has all the tools to do it right for sure? Surely it doesn't cost that much for a one-time job such as that, to ensure your peace of mind and to avoid a costly screw-up...

    Maybe you could do it yourself. On the other hand, the placement is something you want to get exactly in the right place - with no slop, and attached just as securely as it can be done. Unless you've got just an old beater bass and you want to do it for the learning experience, why take a chance?


    P.S. But you're not gonna blow yourself up. The wire is probably just a grounding wire that should make physical contact somewhere with the bridge...
  3. 43apples

    43apples Guest

    Nov 9, 2003
    If the brigde is broke, you proably should borrow it some money :D

    The central ground wire (the ones that comes from under your brigde) should be soldered far as i know.
  4. The BadAssII should go on using the original screw holes. The only alignment problem would be if Fender screwed it up at the factory (which you would have noticed). Just make sure that you have a quality screwdriver that nicely fits the screws. ;)

    The ground wire under the bridge doesn't need to be soldered, it wasn't even soldered at the factory. However sometimes the wire leaves a dent in the wood. If this is the case, just move it slightly and use a small piece of double sided tape to hold it while you reinstall the bridge. :smug:

    Once the bridge is on, re-string and do a set up. Truss rod, action, string height, and intonation. When you plug in the bass, if you get an unusual hum, the ground wire is not making good contact with the bridge, very doubtful that this will happen though. :cool:

  5. smalltownriots


    Jun 9, 2005
    Thanks guys for all your help i really appreciate it, Although whats this about having to file down parts of the bridge (where the strings lay on the bridge, sorry i'm pretty new to bridges).

    what is this for? and how do i do it?


  6. eldave777


    May 24, 2005
    The Bad Ass II will just go in the same spot as your fender bridge. I have installed the bad ass II on two of my jazz basses and didn't cut slots in the saddles and it has worked fine. It stays in tune and the strings don't move around. However I would suggest having them cut just in case. You will love this bridge. It makes a big tone difference.
  7. The slots don't really need to be too deep. What you need is a set of "Needle Files" (any good hardware or tool store will have them).

    Here's how I do it........

    After the bridge is installed, string up and bring the strings to tension, not necessarily to tune at this point just light tension. Visually inspect the string spacing over the pickups and make sure they are in a good spot on the saddles measure the between string spacing to what you want. Pretty much the same as to the original bridge, then mark each string wth a fine point sharpie. Remove the bridge and compare your marks to the slots on the original bridge.

    Notice that your needle file set has several different shapes and sizes of files. Select a file with a sharp edge (not round) and lightly score (a very light file cut) where your sharpie marks are. This gives you a permanent reference mark. At this point, check and double check everything again, even restring if you fell the need to. Don't do any more filing until you are absolutely positve that the marks are where you want the cuts to be! ( measure 10 times cut once!!!)

    Start filing the slots with the sharp edge of a triangle file, until you have a good groove to guide the next files, then shape to the size you want with the appropriately shaped file. File just deeply enough to prevent the strings from jumping out of the slot during aggresive play. Use your old bridge as a guidline.

    Mostly...... be careful, double check everything before you do anything, have patience and do a nice job. :cool:

  8. smalltownriots


    Jun 9, 2005
    you guys are awesome, thanks for everything!

    just wondering how big should the filing/grooves be? im using ernie ball extra slinky strings, so should the filing down be wide enough for the string to rest inside?

    the image did help alot, but it didnt show the strings laying in it.

    i would like to do it myself ideally because id like to learn, but having said that i also dont want to waste 70 bucks, or screw up my bass.

    thanks once again.
  9. You really don't need much more than notches. The string tension should keep the strings in place. If you do experience slippage, you can just take a used string and drag it across the saddle a few times to "file" it to the right size. Remember you can always make the notch deeper, but it's a pain to make the notch smaller!
  10. smalltownriots


    Jun 9, 2005
    thanks guys! uve been a real help, after all this ive desided to get it done by a proffessional while im back in buffalo NY unfortunatly he charges $50 :( that includes intonation and all that stuff bah!

    i dont really wanna fork out that much but id rather not mess it up besides i like a low action to my bass so *shrugs*

    thanks anyway tho!
  11. Thunder_Fingers


    Jun 24, 2004
    Im Mounting a Badass II Bridge on my Precision Bass to(Though this is a japanese 70's reissue, Heeps better than any other Modern Fender :D)

    I saw the price people take for doing stuff like that, and decided that i would use the same amount on tools that i can use to do my own setups...:p
  12. ZZMorgan


    Sep 6, 2002
    Los Angeles
    I just mounted a Badass V bridge on my FMT V Jazz bass. If you follow the steps above religiously, you will get a good result. The bass got a good sound to begin with, but with the heavier bridge, there is MUCH more punch and definition. I'm sure you will be very happy with the result. I know I am!

    ZZ Morgan
  13. bazzanderson


    Oct 7, 2002
    Austin, TX
    You can't go string through now, right? I couldn't figure out a way to do it without more drilling so I just top load on my MIA Jazz Bass V with Badass V.
  14. ZZMorgan


    Sep 6, 2002
    Los Angeles
    That's right. If you want to use the same drill holes, you need to string through the bridge.

    But it is a really nice sounding bridge and I like its sound better on my bass than stringing through the body. More punch.

    My advice having fiddled with the thing for a few weeks is to get it professionally installed. It makes a world of difference.


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