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Help with straplocks

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Ryan Berry, Dec 28, 2001.

  1. I got my warwick streamer standard today! Im so happy! The only problem is that the straplocks i bought (schaller) dont fit. The hole left by the other screw (wich is bigger than the straplock screw) to big so the threads dont grab anything. Are you supposed to fill up these holes with something?
  2. Depends.. first thing.. always try to use the original screw.. specially with Ibanez basses.. they use monsterscrews... if you don't have a small file to modify the original screw's head.. then get some toothpicks and wood-glue..

    1) put the toothpicks in the hole
    2) measure how long the toothpick must be so that it doesn't stick out anymore.
    3) take out the toothpick and cut the toothpick at the correct length
    4) dip the toothpicks in the glue, then put them in the hole.

    now repeat these 2 steps until it is tightened :

    5) wipe any excessive glue off the bass.
    6) tighten the screw a little

    and finally

    7) let it dry for a day. some might say " a couple of hours ", but just to be sure.. leave it for a day.

    oh yeah..don't turn it too tight.. the glue will dry up and lock the screw in real tight, so don't force it :)
  3. My friend had strappies on his Ibanez guitar, and he did a bit of an over-zealous on stage jump, ripped the upper horn right off about an inch from the pin,

  4. HeavyDuty

    HeavyDuty Supporting Curmudgeon Staff Member Gold Supporting Member

    Jun 26, 2000
    Suburban Chicago, IL
    Key word in this account: Ibanez.
  5. HeavyDuty

    HeavyDuty Supporting Curmudgeon Staff Member Gold Supporting Member

    Jun 26, 2000
    Suburban Chicago, IL
    Seapickle - since your Warwick is brand new, I wouldn't modify it with toothpicks and glue quite yet.

    First, contact Warwick to see if they offer special Schaller buttons to fit their standard screw, similar to the special straplock bolts Rickenbacker offers. If they don't, then...

    Take a look at the straplock buttons. Does the stock screw head come close to fitting into the hollow of the button if you turn the screw around backwards?

    I humbly suggest you'd be much better off modifying the straplock button (with a larger hole) and/or the stock screw (by filing the screw head smaller in diameter) than you would be kludging the body of your brand new bass. I save the toothpick trick for filling stripped-out holes, not something like you're doing!

  6. that's the stupidest thing I've ever heard
  7. cb56


    Jul 2, 2000
    Central Illinois
    Umm ... It's a well known repairman's trick that works very well. done it myself with great success.
  8. In the time I have been at TB this question has some up about 15 times.

    The answer to the problem is toothpicks.
    Don't even need the glue.
    Put the toothpick in the hole, snap it off, put in the straplock screw. You will probally only need one toothpick.

    It has been done a million times and no one has posted about the method failing.

    Don't call Warwick, don't get out your grinder and modify the screw. Just find 2 or 4 toothpicks.
  9. ok then mr.wiseass... how would you do it then ? :mad: :rolleyes: :p :D
  10. I'm with gruffpuppy - I never use glue either. Toothpicks alone work just fine.
  11. just finished installing them. Used toothpicks and liquid nails.
  12. Not attack it with glue. If you ever planned to take em out you'd never get your toothpicks out of their, you'd need to drill em out or something.

    I just found it a bit weird cause generally when you do modifications like that you don't make them irreversable(sp??).

    If you ever took the strap locks out you'd have a whole buch of glue and crap stuck in your hole, it'd suck.

    As always I am probly wrong, but shoot:D :D

  13. well if you ever took out the straps and put the old screws back in.. nobody would know / notice that there is some left-over glue/toothpicks in there, now would they ? :D
  14. Eloquently put Mr. ElDarko and, in this case, you are completely correct (for the first time in this thread)

    This is NOT a modification. This is a repair and it is one of the most common, simplest, and best solutions to the condition described by Seapickle.

    There are a couple of things to consider when choosing a method of repair on an instrument. First, does the chosen repair method do the job and in a manner consistent with known and accepted practices for repairs of this type? Yes, in this case, the repair is quite acceptable under these criteria. Second, will the repair devalue the instrument? In this case - No, since the repair is invisible and since the relative value of this instrument is it's purchase price only. As a matter of fact, a good strong repair for the straplock screw will increase it's value since the bass is not likely to come loose, hit the ground and create damage that would definitely devalue the instrument. You would be surprised by the number if instruments that have this and other invisible repairs that will never be an issue when it comes to value. Additionally, your assumption that the repair is not reversable is incorrect. Should you want to put the original Warwick strap button back on the bass, you could do this easily without modification. I would even venture to say that you wouldn't likely notice that the hole had been repaired in this way.

    In the future Maury, should you feel the need to challenge an idea put forth in this forum, you should address your concerns in a manner that is a bit more conducive to the exchange of information rather than the approach you chose to take. To describe the idea as you did (strangely, with the prior assumption that you could be very wrong) won't be tolerated here.
  15. I always say things with the prior assumption that I could (and almost inevitably will) be wrong.

    That's not true, it was the stupidest thing I've ever heard. I never said it was wrong, really you made that assumption yourselves, no? All I stated is that I wasn't about to take to my bass with glue and toothpicks (probably because my end result wouldn't be anywhere near what you have described here).

    but really, how you fry an egg is all your business, as long as once you take it out of the pan it's still an egg.

    Did I challenge it?
    If so, I'd like to withdraw my challenge

    :D :D

    -Maurice "Maury" ElDarko ;)

    PS I still don't see how it's a "Repair" and not a "Modification" There was nothing wrong with the holes Warwick drilled, they just need to be smaller,....

    PPS I assume this is also wrong;) ;)
  16. HeavyDuty

    HeavyDuty Supporting Curmudgeon Staff Member Gold Supporting Member

    Jun 26, 2000
    Suburban Chicago, IL
    Sorry, guys - but I'm of the "modify the cheapest replaceable part first" school of engineering.

    I stand by my opinion - I'd rather modify the new button and/or screwhead first. Toothpicks are great, but I'd rather have a solid 360-degree mounting surface if that's what I'm starting with. (Please note a liberal application of toothpicks are all that keep my Ric 4001 from crashing to the floor!)

    Wanna know the worst part of this whole episode? According to a dealer I know, Warwicks come stock with Dunlop straplock buttons. If this is true, this "didn't have to happen" (remember that old shop safety movie, old farts?).
  17. That is a true/false statement.

    Only some models come with the Dunlops, more of them don't than do. And for the real off the wall people, Dunlop makes a plug that goes into the stock hole so you can mount a normal button or a Schaller.
    What will they think of next.:D

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