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Here is my bass project

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by stroy05, Sep 2, 2002.


  1. stroy05

    stroy05 Supporting Member

    Feb 21, 2001
    Houston, TX
    Endorsing Artist: Fodera Basses, Noble Amps, Aguilar Amps, JHAudio Inears
    Here is the project I have been working on. I know it is a copy of a Fodera Imperial 5 string....but it is a bolt on.

    Body Woods
    Birdseye maple top
    Black strip between the top and core
    Mohagany core
    Claro walnut back

    I am really having a blast with this project.

    I am working on the neck right now. It will be a 5 piece maple/purpleheart with a macassar ebony board. The nut is petrified prehistoric walrus bone.

    The pickups will be Aero Dual coil
    The electronics are a secret
    Hardware will be all hipshot

    What do you guys think? I am trying to figure out the finish...weither i should use a hard finish or hand rub.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. dhuffguitars

    dhuffguitars Luthier/Bass Wanker depending on your opinion

    Sep 18, 2001
    SPOKANE WA
    Very cool!!! Got any neck pics?

    I think you should go with an oil finish.

    Darrin
     
  3. stroy05

    stroy05 Supporting Member

    Feb 21, 2001
    Houston, TX
    Endorsing Artist: Fodera Basses, Noble Amps, Aguilar Amps, JHAudio Inears
    I have been leaning toward the oil finish. What I have been wondering is should i use straight tung oil or a mixture. IF a mixture, what is that mixture? what are the different parts of the mixture and how much of each part. And also how to apply it
     
  4. JAUQO III-X

    JAUQO III-X Banned

    Jan 4, 2002
    CHICAGO,IL.
    Endorsing artist:see profile.
    It's looking pretty nice.
     
  5. kboyd

    kboyd

    Jul 6, 2002
    Loranger
    I have to say oil/varnish. I like tru-oil, it is fairly hard, can have a glossy (fast finger rub) or a satin luster, and is also easily repaired. This type of finish in my opinion lets the wood "breath" and you will have a more vintage tone in less time. Look at all the old basses that most people adore, the laquer finish has broken or been worn away and the wood was allowed to really affect the tone of the instrument.
    I only finish in oil for my basses, it looks good, light scratches and scuffs are easily fixed, and sounds great.http://boydbasses.com
     
  6. stroy05

    stroy05 Supporting Member

    Feb 21, 2001
    Houston, TX
    Endorsing Artist: Fodera Basses, Noble Amps, Aguilar Amps, JHAudio Inears
    can i get this in a mixture that is already mixed and ready to go?
     
  7. kboyd

    kboyd

    Jul 6, 2002
    Loranger
    You can get tru-oil from either stewmac.com or luthiers mercantile. It was originally flormulated to be used on the gunstocks of hunters (to withstand the rigors of humidity and the roughness of carrying the guns thru the wilderness). I works fantastically as an instrument finish and is recommended by top luthiers. It also works well as a fretless fingerboard finish. Forget the hardener they recommend to go with it, it is hard enough. Only three or four coats needed, with 8 hours or so between oiling and you are ready to go, just remember to use finer grit as you sand between coats. I recommend micromesh and as a final buff, light (very light) buffing with 0000 fine steel wool and then a buffing with lambs wool.
     
  8. FBB Custom

    FBB Custom TalkBass Pro Commercial User

    Jan 26, 2002
    Maryland
    Owner: FBB Bass Works
    Pure tung oil dries very slowly. Use a tung oil/varnish blend like Tru Oil or Formsby's.
     
  9. Suburban

    Suburban

    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    I would second the TruOil, but it seems from the pictures, it's too late - you alredy got termites in the bottom body wing.....sorry.
     
  10. Samie

    Samie

    Dec 13, 2000
    Madrid, Spain
    Where did you get the body? did you make it your self? it is very nice. Boy I wish I could get something like this

    [​IMG]
     
  11. stroy05

    stroy05 Supporting Member

    Feb 21, 2001
    Houston, TX
    Endorsing Artist: Fodera Basses, Noble Amps, Aguilar Amps, JHAudio Inears
    I started this whole project from scratch. It was a lot easier than i thought. I have not encountered many problems. I think the major problem i encountered was a material that i used to create the black line between the birdseye and mohagany core.

    Other than that it is pretty simple. I havenot had any experience with wood working but i do have a friend that worked under Greg Curbow that is showing me how to do this building thing. He tells me what i should do and i do it. That is pretty much it. I came up with the design or i should say i dirived my design from another and went from there.

    I just hope i can get the neck joint working ok.
    Anyone got any pointers on this. It is a single cutaway and the neck is attaching all the way to the 14 fret. Well the body is coming in at the 14 fret. I plan on using 3 bolts on the upper bout side of the body and 2 bolts on the cutaway side.

    What are your thought on this?
     
  12. JP Basses

    JP Basses

    Mar 22, 2002
    Paris FRANCE
    Why dont you go Set Neck ?????

    For the singlecut design you've chosen, IMHO bolt on will look a bit weird... You've got to think about the upper frets access.

    Anyway, the 3 and 2 bolts arrangement will work fine.

    JP
     
  13. stroy05

    stroy05 Supporting Member

    Feb 21, 2001
    Houston, TX
    Endorsing Artist: Fodera Basses, Noble Amps, Aguilar Amps, JHAudio Inears
    I dont have a regular neck cut out on the body.
    It is not like a fender neck pocket. It is more like how Curbow does his neck pocket on the single pickup model of his. The pocket is cutaway fine to access the upper frets. I will take a pic of the pocket so you can see what i am talking about.