Hi-Beam flats or Chromes?

Dunno if this'll start a fight or something, but as far as length, just get the regular long scale strings and top load them.

I do this on my L2500 and so far no problems with the bridge. There've been threads about concerns top loading the L2500 with the through-body option.

I got tired of trying to find super long-scale versions of the strings I like (I'm currently using the Chromes myself) and decided to go with just top loading regular long scales.

I've thought about putting bolts through the empty holes as a completley reversible mod to fortify the bridge, but it hasn't been necessary on mine so far. So I've put that off for now.

Sorry this is a little off topic,

LS

 

Here's my $0.02....
DR flats sound like Fender/ LaBella flats. Muted to non-existant highs, rich, deep lows, and a trim midrange. DR tension is quite low, making it easy to play fast and smooth, same tension as HiBeams.
Chromes have decent but not obvious highs, the same warm lows, and a midrange that cuts well in a mix- very even in their response tonally. Chromes have a much higher tension than DR flats, but the trade-off is being able to get lower action.
My preference for flats is Chromes, but if you can find/ afford them, try TI flats. The TI's give you the sound of Chromes and the tension of DR's in one beautiful package. I love DR strings, but the TI's are the bomb when it comes to flats.

YMMV..........

 

Yup

 

I'm glad this is working for you. I was horrified to see the lifting bridge pictures some guys had. Has anyone ever spoken to G&L about this? I would think that if this problem continued they would either have through body stringing only or redesign the bridge. At least put a few more securing bolts in it. Actually I thought I read somewhere they had changed this on the Tributes.
B

 

Well it is a little unnerving to see only the two screws on the side holding the bridge in its route. My L2000 has screws where the holes would be (in addition to the two screws on the side) on a through-body option, so I just naturally assumed the extra holding was needed to keep the bridge down.

But just the two screws may very well be sufficient. I checked the tightness of the screws before I loaded the strings on it too. So far nothing is moving or causing problems.

Like I said, I was thinking about some small bolts from the hardware store to go through the unused holes but the strings were already on there and I was off playing the bass before I got to it.

AFAIK, G&L doesn't have any caution against top loading on the L2500 so I assume they tested the strength of it as-is.....

LS

 

Sadowsky flats.