Hipshot A bridge install on a bass with two scale lengths, sort of

[Stagelab]

Into a mahogany body, use the 7/64" drill bit.

Just to be sure, it’s okoume, similar to mahogany. Still 7/64”?

So I can learn this, how do you decide between these two sizes? What’s the reason?

 

[Stagelab]

Did they place the dots where the “frets” are instead of between them?

The side dots are aligned to the “frets,” not between them.

 

[Stagelab]

When the G string is properly intonated, the saddle is located very close to the scale length. Being the thinnest string it requires the least compensation at the saddle.


Wow. I guess you're right. Still hard to believe they missed the scale length by .5". That's a huge distance to be off on such a critical spec.

It’s a Sadowsky Metroexpress. I contacted Warwick and Roger about this bass and they won’t help since I’m not the original owner. While I get it, I also think they’re shirking responsibility.

I won’t buy a Warwick or a Sadowsky again aside from an old Japanese Metro, and that’s a maybe. Won’t touch anything tied to Warwick, and alas a Sadowsky NYC is beyond my means.

I also know players who bought the latest version of this bass, it came with construction issues and even finish cracks, and Warwick only partially compensated the players for these problems. It’s poor business practice, profit before customer experience.

I live minutes from the Sadowsky HQ and it is a letdown to be disappointed like this by a good neighbor, and their partner in Germany.

 

[Stagelab]

It looks like the neck isn't quite straight on the body. Looking from the front, it's angled slightly to the right. Not much, just a little bit. Fix that before you finalize the position of the bridge. Loosen the four neck screws a turn or so, and pull sideways on the neck at the headstock. It should move a small amount, within the clearance of the neck screw holes through the body. Hold it like that while you re-tighten the neck screws.

If the neck doesn't move at all, then take the neck off and drill the holes through the body slightly larger. Then try again.

I just realized I had my shim in the neck pocket still. I removed it and when I screwed the neck back on I pulled at the headstock sideways, but hard to say if it helped. See pic. What do you think?

The neck screws require a little extra force to screw all the way so I’m guessing the holes should be slightly larger. If I drill, how do I figure out which bit to use and the depth? Would rather not have to mess with these holes if I can avoid it.

 

[eeyorebass]

It’s a Sadowsky Metroexpress. I contacted Warwick and Roger about this bass and they won’t help since I’m not the original owner. While I get it, I also think they’re shirking responsibility.

I won’t buy a Warwick or a Sadowsky again aside from an old Japanese Metro, and that’s a maybe. Won’t touch anything tied to Warwick, and alas a Sadowsky NYC is beyond my means.

I also know players who bought the latest version of this bass, it came with construction issues and even finish cracks, and Warwick only partially compensated the players for these problems. It’s poor business practice, profit before customer experience.

I live minutes from the Sadowsky HQ and it is a letdown to be disappointed like this by a good neighbor, and their partner in Germany.

I'm sorry to hear that. Warwicks and Sadowskys have never been my thing, but I always had respect for the quality and their reputations as companies. Best of luck getting this one to a place you're happy with.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

I just realized I had my shim in the neck pocket still. I removed it and when I screwed the neck back on I pulled at the headstock sideways, but hard to say if it helped. See pic. What do you think?

The neck screws require a little extra force to screw all the way so I’m guessing the holes should be slightly larger. If I drill, how do I figure out which bit to use and the depth? Would rather not have to mess with these holes if I can avoid it.

Do the neck screws slip through the body or do you need the thread them through? They should slip through. Most neck screws are #8 or #10, either way I usually drill the body holes to 3/16”. If you want to make yours larger drill about half way from one side then finish up the hole by drilling from the other side. On existing holes that should minimize or eliminate any chip out.

 

[Stagelab]

Do the neck screws slip through the body or do you need the thread them through? They should slip through. Most neck screws are #8 or #10, either way I usually drill the body holes to 3/16”. If you want to make yours larger drill about half way from one side then finish up the hole by drilling from the other side. On existing holes that should minimize or eliminate any chip out.

When I place the screws in the holes they don’t fall in very much. I have to thread them most of the way.

Edit: Here’s a pic. I took the neck off. You’ll see the screw barely travels into the body. You have to thread it. There are two washers and a nut (not sure if you call it that) in the hole and then the screw comes last. Is this design intended so you have to thread thru the body? Asking in the Club Sadowsky mega thread.

I don’t have a 3/16” bit. If I had one wouldn’t I just drill dead center into the holes, making them wider? How do I know when to stop drilling? If I knew the depth I wanted to drill I could use the tape trick.

I guess this means I’d have to return to Home Depot.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

When I place the screws in the holes they don’t fall in very much. I have to thread them most of the way.

Edit: Here’s a pic. I took the neck off. You’ll see the screw barely travels into the body. You have to thread it. There are two washers and a nut (not sure if you call it that) in the hole and then the screw comes last. Is this design intended so you have to thread thru the body? Asking in the Club Sadowsky mega thread.

I don’t have a 3/16” bit. If I had one wouldn’t I just drill dead center into the holes, making them wider? How do I know when to stop drilling? If I knew the depth I wanted to drill I could use the tape trick.

I guess this means I’d have to return to Home Depot.

Like Matt says; the screws should slip freely through the holes in the body. They should not be threading into the body wood. Run a 3/16" drill down through them. That will improve the clamping of the neck into the neck pocket, and it will allow a little bit of space to adjust the neck alignment.

 

[Stagelab]

Like Matt says; the screws should slip freely through the holes in the body. They should not be threading into the body wood. Run a 3/16" drill down through them. That will improve the clamping of the neck into the neck pocket, and it will allow a little bit of space to adjust the neck alignment.

How do I know when to stop drilling? Am I drilling all the way thru the body till I see the bit on the other side?

 

[Bruce Johnson]

How do I know when to stop drilling?

All the way through the body, with the neck removed. The screw should slide easily through the washers and the body wood. Then, when it threads into the neck wood, it will clamp the neck tightly into the neck pocket.

 

[Stagelab]

All the way through the body, with the neck removed. The screw should slide easily through the washers and the body wood. Then, when it threads into the neck wood, it will clamp the neck tightly into the neck pocket.

Ok got the bit. Am I drilling dead center into the holes in the body? Matt said something about drilling from the sides but I didn’t understand it.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Ok got the bit. Am I drilling dead center into the holes in the body? Matt said something about drilling from the sides but I didn’t understand it.

Drill dead center. You just want to enlarge the holes a little bit from what they are.

 

[Stagelab]

Drill dead center. You just want to enlarge the holes a little bit from what they are.

Drilled the holes but only one screw falls through. It falls through in all 4 holes. The other screws don’t fall through in any. They must not be the same size.

Pic of screws here. Bottom one falls through. You can see the bottom one is narrower.

Maybe I can find someone at Home Depot who can find the same size screw as the bottom one. I need 3 more.

Or how can I use the bits I have to enlarge 3 of the holes without making the holes too big?

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Take the screw(s) with you next time. I was admittedly guessing at the size based on what’s typically used. Sorry. Or, a fairly complete drill index from HD or Lowes that has all the typical fractional sizes isn’t much more then a single bit. I didn’t realise you were getting one at a time.

What I meant about drilling the holes from both sides is that when you drill through wood there is usually chips of wood the break off when the bit comes through. Granted, it’s worse with a new hole than one that’s already started like you have. To avoid any possibly of chip out start drilling from the back body side of the hole and drill about half way through. The exact depth doesn’t matter just don’t go all the way through. Do all 4 holes. Turn the body over and drill from the neck pocket side the rest of the way through.

Edit: what’s your next size bit up from 3/16”?

 

[Stagelab]

Take the screw(s) with you next time. I was admittedly guessing at the size based on what’s typically used. Sorry. Or, a fairly complete drill index from HD or Lowes that has all the typical fractional sizes isn’t much more then a single bit. I didn’t realise you were getting one at a time.

What I meant about drilling the holes from both sides is that when you drill through wood there is usually chips of wood the break off when the bit comes through. Granted, it’s worse with a new hole than one that’s already started like you have. To avoid any possibly of chip out start drilling from the back body side of the hole and drill about half way through. The exact depth doesn’t matter just don’t go all the way through. Do all 4 holes. Turn the body over and drill from the neck pocket side the rest of the way through.

Edit: what’s your next size bit up from 3/16”?

That’s good advice for next time.

I double checked and the bigger bit I have isn’t actually a bit. It’s a Phillips head connection for my electric screwdriver.

So it’s either get 3 new screws or get bigger bits.

 

[Stagelab]

Drill dead center. You just want to enlarge the holes a little bit from what they are.

A friend nearby let me borrow a 7/32” bit. The screws all fall thru the body holes now.

I think the neck is straight. @Bruce Johnson is it better to you?

Double checked my bridge position measurement and turns out the contact points are 34 and 1/8” from the inside of the nut. If I move the bridge so contact pts are 34”, part of the original screw holes in the body appear where I need to drill holes for the new bridge. Is the extra 1/8” an issue? I’m guessing the right move here is to fill the original holes with dowels, then drill new holes through the dowels. This is getting more advanced step by step and I feel like I’m over my head.

Even if I wanted to position the bridge for 34.5” scale, with the contact pts at 34.5”, I can’t without the original top 2 screw holes being visible above the new bridge.

General question. If I position a bridge with the saddles all the way forward and the contact pt at 34”, what happens if to intonate a string I need to move the saddle further forward?

 

[Bruce Johnson]

General question. If I position a bridge with the saddles all the way forward and the contact pt at 34”, what happens if to intonate a string I need to move the saddle further forward?

That doesn't happen. The intonation adjustment is always back away from the neck, adding a small amount to the working length of the string. We've gone over the technical reasons why in a few other threads.

 

[DJ Bebop]

I’m installing a Hipshot A style 19mm 4 string bridge on an unlined fretless that has side dots spaced for a 34.5” scale, though the bass is a 34”. The factory screwed up and placed the octave marker at 17.25” from the inside of the nut and all the dots are off when I compare their positions to the frets on my 34” fretted bass.

I’m going to cover up the side dots and place new adhesive ones in the correct spots for a 34” scale. Reason being, I have arthritis issues and don’t want the extra length in the lower registers.

Question is about the bridge setup. I want to intonate the bass as a 34” scale and I also want enough room to move the saddles so if I ever sell the bass, I can revert it back to 34.5” scale with the original dots and intonate the bass properly, without having to relocate the bridge.

I have the bridge positioned so the saddles are around 34” from the inside of the nut with the saddles moved far forward. See pic 1 attached. The A saddle is exactly 34”. Is this a good position for what I’m trying to achieve?

The Hipshot bridge doesn’t allow for much more saddle movement forward than this and unlike other bridges you can’t move the saddles too far back. With the bridge in this spot I can move the saddles back so they’re about 34.3” from the inside of the nut. See pic 2. Can’t get them to 34.5”. Any issues with that?

Are the side dots where the frets would be instead of where the dots usually fall between the frets?

Never mind, asked and answered.
The dots are where the frets fall.

Still knowing that, do the dots still indicate it's a 34.5 scale?

 

[Stagelab]

That doesn't happen. The intonation adjustment is always back away from the neck, adding a small amount to the working length of the string. We've gone over the technical reasons why in a few other threads.

Got it.

What do you suggest for the bridge position? Contact pts at 34 and 1/8” or insert dowels so the contact pts are at 34”?

I could bring the bass to Home Depot to figure out dowel size. If I have the process right, it’s trim the dowel to depth of hole, sand top of dowel, apply wood glue to hole and cover dowel in glue, insert dowel, let dry, razor blade the top of dowel so it’s flush with body, seal with CA glue, then drill bridge holes.

Hipshot is sending me short screws and springs so saddles will have more travel if I later decide to go with 34.5”. Maybe it’ll work without moving the bridge back. Very little clearance to move the bridge back from its 34” position without visible screw holes and some ground wire.

 

[Stagelab]

Are the side dots where the frets would be instead of where the dots usually fall between the frets?

Never mind, asked and answered.
The dots are where the frets fall.

Still knowing that, do the dots still indicate it's a 34.5 scale?

Not sure I understand your question. I think I explained the dots situation earlier in the thread.