Hipshot A bridge install on a bass with two scale lengths, sort of

[Bruce Johnson]

Got it.

What do you suggest for the bridge position? Contact pts at 34 and 1/8” or insert dowels so the contact pts are at 34”?

I could bring the bass to Home Depot to figure out dowel size. If I have the process right, it’s trim the dowel to depth of hole, sand top of dowel, apply wood glue to hole and cover dowel in glue, insert dowel, let dry, razor blade the top of dowel so it’s flush with body, seal with CA glue, then drill bridge holes.

Hipshot is sending me short screws and springs so saddles will have more travel if I later decide to go with 34.5”. Maybe it’ll work without moving the bridge back. Very little clearance to move the bridge back from its 34” position without visible screw holes and some ground wire.

The main thing is that you need to decide which scale length you want the bass to be, and then mount the bridge correctly for that scale length. You are not going to be able to mount the bridge in one position and have it adjustable for 34.0' to 34.5". There isn't enough saddle travel, even with shorter screws and springs. The only way to make the bass adjustable in scale length is to have two sets of holes in the body, and move the bridge from one position to the other.

And really, does a half inch in scale length make that much difference to you? To me, it's not worth the trouble. To me, either make it 34.0" and correct the side dots, or position the bridge to match whatever the side dots are. Even if that means doweling and moving the holes in the body. Choose one or the other. And do the job right one time.

 

[DJ Bebop]

Not sure I understand your question. I think I explained the dots situation earlier in the thread.

Okay, I thought because the dots were where the frets go it might have thrown off the perception of the scale length. That's all.

 

[Stagelab]

The main thing is that you need to decide which scale length you want the bass to be, and then mount the bridge correctly for that scale length. You are not going to be able to mount the bridge in one position and have it adjustable for 34.0' to 34.5". There isn't enough saddle travel, even with shorter screws and springs. The only way to make the bass adjustable in scale length is to have two sets of holes in the body, and move the bridge from one position to the other.

And really, does a half inch in scale length make that much difference to you? To me, it's not worth the trouble. To me, either make it 34.0" and correct the side dots, or position the bridge to match whatever the side dots are. Even if that means doweling and moving the holes in the body. Choose one or the other. And do the job right one time.

Ok. I’m setting this up for 34”. It’s my only option cause 34.5” means two holes visible above the bridge, which even with dowels will look bad since I can’t match the finish.

So I need to add a dowel. But the screw hole is 0.10” in diameter (at least the top of the hole is) and no dowels at Home Depot are this small. What do I do?

Sorry for so many questions but all this is new to me and I’m researching on the side to answer my questions but not easily finding the answers.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Ok. I’m setting this up for 34”. It’s my only option cause 34.5” means two holes visible above the bridge, which even with dowels will look bad since I can’t match the finish.

So I need to add a dowel. But the screw hole is 0.10” in diameter (at least the top of the hole is) and no dowels at Home Depot are this small. What do I do?

Sorry for so many questions but all this is new to me and I’m researching on the side to answer my questions but not easily finding the answers.

For bridge hole screws, we usually drill the holes to 1/8" and glue in pieces of 1/8" birch dowels with wood glue. Chisel the tops of the dowels flush with the surface and put a drop of glue on them to seal them up. Then locate and drill your new holes.

 

[Stagelab]

For bridge hole screws, we usually drill the holes to 1/8" and glue in pieces of 1/8" birch dowels with wood glue. Chisel the tops of the dowels flush with the surface and put a drop of glue on them to seal them up. Then locate and drill your new holes.

Rather than tackle the dowel and drilling I’ve decided to stick with the OEM bridge and return my Hipshot.

I had a hypothesis that the OEM was installed in the right spot for 34” but the side dots were the sole issue. Put the bridge back in its original location and intonated the bass using the 17” spot as the octave marker (even though it’s not). Bass intonates well and across the entire board if I fret the notes where the dots should be on a 34”, the notes are in tune on a strobe and to my ears.

Proves the root cause is the dot placement, not the bridge placement. So I’m covering the original dots and will place new adhesive dots in the right spots.

Best solution IMO since with either bridge I couldn’t position the bridge for 34.5” without the top 2 screw holes being visible. Plus, I’d prefer 34” over a longer scale.

Here’s a pic of the OEM bridge now. Saddles are far forward, no longer crooked, no more odd string end angles, etc.

Long journey to get here but learned a lot and we fixed those neck screw holes along the way.

About ready to tackle the fingerboard sanding on the other thread.