Home Made Cabinents

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by lefthandbass17, Dec 9, 2003.

  1. I was wondering what kind of wood, screws, etc. are the best for making your own cabinents. Also what speakers are best for around 100 dollars each. Where can I find these. Answers will be highly appreciated.

  2. Passinwind

    Passinwind I Know Nothing Supporting Member

    <b>Try www.partsexpress.com for starters on the drivers and cab hardware. Eminence and Selenium both will work well at that price point. You can download cabinet design software lots of places, I think there's a link or two on the PE site.

    Best wood is void free multi-ply (11 ply or better) Baltic birch, IMO. Not cheap, or all that light, or that easy to find. I've done OK with fir plywood with birch veneer, it's very pretty but not as bomber. MDF sounds good, but is way heavy, and melts in the rain, like that wicked ol' witch.:spit:

    I'd recommend bracing every edge from inside the cab, I use 1 X 1 hemlock, and regular sheetrock screws, with plenty of Elmer's wood glue.

    Here's a few of my homemade jobs:</b>

  3. Chasarms

    Chasarms Casual Observer

    May 24, 2001
    Bettendorf, IA USA
    I don't think you'll see much difference between good quality, 3/4 plywood and 3/4" MDF.

    I prefer MDF because it cuts cleanly and there is no chance of voids in the plys or other issues. It shouldn't be confused with particle board, which a totally different thing.

    Glue all the seams with a quality carpenters glue. You may also consider something like liquid Nail, which bonds very tightly and is thicker than carpenters' glue, so it fills small gaps nicely.

    1.5-2" drywall screws work nicely and should be piloted before screwing. Rememeber that they are there to create a tight bond until the glue cures. The glue is the real bonding agent, so there is no need to go crazy with screws.
  4. can u give me the dimensions and specs of your cabinents. those are awesome.
  5. Passinwind

    Passinwind I Know Nothing Supporting Member

    <i> Chasarms:
    <b>I don't think you'll see much difference between good quality, 3/4 plywood and 3/4" MDF.</b> </i>

    <b>Heh. You won't HEAR much difference, maybe. My wife would not be pleased to be looking at "natural" MDF in our living room though.I wanted to just paint my cabs flat black, but I was overruled. OTOH, the horrendous paneling in there would be improved by just about anything.</b>

    <i><b>Lefthandbass: can u give me the dimensions and specs of your cabinents. those are awesome.</i><b>

    <b>You want the 15 inch one? I have a .pdf of the E-V cab those are derived from, I can email it to you if you like. It's a great starting point if you've never built a cab before. You might want to change the porting a bit, depending on what drivers you get. Or you could just get some EVM 15Bs off eBay or whatever, since that's what the cab's designed for.</b>
  6. ? What does a preamp have to do with cabinet building?
  7. dont question me this is my thread! and its under the subject amps so....
  8. rllefebv


    Oct 17, 2000
    Newberg, Oregon
    Hey passinwind, (nice nick!!)...

    Good lookin' cabs! I'm glad to see that someone else is stayin' natural!


  9. Passinwind

    Passinwind I Know Nothing Supporting Member

    Jah mon, that's de ting; yours look nice too. Did you notice the lovely clear plastic mirror brackets holding up the grille screen on the lower 12" cab?:cool:
  10. To get the best sound from whatever speaker you buy, find out its Theile Small parameters, and plug them ito a speaker box design program, e.g. Winisd, or perfect box (Google will find you a free download of either, and the spkr manufacturer should give you the info you need.) This will give you the right size of vent for the size of box you choose.

    Passinwind suggested bracing every edge, but I have some doubts about that. The edges are already braced by being attached to another panel. The maximum vibration in any panel will be in the middle where it is unsupported, so IMO that is where you should put the extra bracing.
  11. Passinwind

    Passinwind I Know Nothing Supporting Member

    <b>I was thinking that for a first-time builder, edge bracing is a good idea for a few reasons. Your edge cuts are way less critical, because everything is nicely sealed inside. Unbraced plywood will break at the edge if dropped hard, in my experience. Every nice commercial PA cab I can recall is built this way (braced). The E-V plans I built my initial cabs off of spec'd edge bracing, and I've just adopted that as SOP. If you're going to go with a natural finish like I did, those braces let you screw everything together from inside the cab, so no countersinking and plugging is required. It also makes squaring things up a lot easier, IMO. I have very minimal woodworking skills and tools, so I just have my panels cut at the lumber mill when I buy the wood. This is free, or maybe 50 cents a cut, depending on their mood.

    As far a vibration dampening braces, I'm all for them, as needed. My cabs are pretty small, and haven't shown any need for them though. I've toyed with the idea of adding carbon fiber ribs, vacuum bagged over a foam rib structure. While I'm a lame woodworker, I have access to all kinds of composite construction widgets. Personally, I'd just pay someone to do this though, I hate working with that stuff. The Flite cabs really intrigue me, I think I'll look at that as a direction to try. I'm a geezer, so light is right! :cool:

    ---Charlie Escher </b>
  12. Fixing from the inside is good point - I was thinking about a glued and screwed MDF box covered in felt to hide the mistakes/countersunk screwheads.

    W.r.t bracing, the JBL site suggests bracing every 18 inches when using 3/4 inch ply, so for smaller enclosures, it would not apply.

    At the risk of hijacking this thread, the next bit of the design process is where I got stuck. You find a speaker, you download a box design program,- what is the lowest frequency that the cab should reproduce? JBL suggest that it should be below the lowest note you want to play, and Moskowitz (compact bass bottom design) agrees, but claims that most commercial cabs stop way too high.

    For a 5 string, should I be aiming for a -3dB point of 60 Hz or 30 Hz? Will I hear/feel the extra octave?
  13. There ya go. Great info.

    Not exactly. It depends on what mode of resonance you are in. During first the middle would be true for max displacement/etc, Second the middle is the area of least amplitude/displacement/etc and there are 2 nodes spaced 1/3 apart of the total length..blah blah blah.

    Easiest way to see is to go play with a slinky. Get two people, stretch it out about 12-15 feet. Play with shaking it, then counting the number of still spots (nodes).

    Hope that helps.
  14. I agree with the theory, but in practice, won't the lowest harmonic also be the biggest?