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homemade aguilar

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by kegbarnacle, Mar 29, 2004.

  1. kegbarnacle


    Nov 18, 2003
    I really dig aguilar's stuff (and who doesn't), but a lot of it is out of my price range. However, I notice that you can buy speakers seperately for a fraction of the price of a complete cab on the Aguilar web site. I have a complete woodshop, I could build a box to specs in a long afternoon with spare wood I already have.

    But am I missing something here? The speakers seperately cost $100+ depending on size, I've already got the wood, maybe throw in a horn and a xover, I figure I could build a 210 for about $300. Would it be the same??? I've seen complete Aguilar 210's going for around $500-600. Are they the same speakers when sold seperately? Am I just shopping at the wrong stores for a complete cab?

    Normally when I get the feeling that I have the system beat I end up horribly wrong...
  2. Aguilar originally sells separate speakers only as replacement. However, if you really want; I guess you can buy anything you want.

    The construction and the materials used won't be the same as Aguilar uses so I figure the sound will not be exactly the same. But you can get a good cab.
    I think Eminence custom make speakers for Aguilar, so why not get Eminence speakers? they will be cheaper(that's what I did).If you really dig Aguilar cabs and you can't afford a new one, get one used.
  3. Saetia


    Mar 27, 2003
  4. Petebass


    Dec 22, 2002
    QLD Australia
    The trick is to reverse engineer it as closely as possible to the original design. Pay particular attention to the cabinet's internal volume and the porting. If you can replicate those, you're set!
  5. Trevorus


    Oct 18, 2002
    Urbana, IL
    Very true. Also, I think the type of wood you use can have an effect too.
  6. Petebass


    Dec 22, 2002
    QLD Australia
    Maybe but my ears aren't golden enough to pick up on different timbers in cabinets. If you can't find out what timber Aggi use, I'd use Birch Ply........... or MDF if you're strong and like em heavy.
  7. luknfur


    Jan 14, 2004
    I bought an Aggie 112 with some thought of building another using the original as a model. After building a couple different cabs and for the reasons not to do it as mentioned previously, personally I'd buy an Aggie used in like new condition - there are plenty of them out there and if you're not in a "got to have it" phase, with a little patience you can get one at that with shipping included. You can always buy one and have a look yourself about building another, then sell the original if you're satisfied.
  8. Bob Lee (QSC)

    Bob Lee (QSC) In case you missed it, I work for QSC Audio! Commercial User

    Jul 3, 2001
    Costa Mesa, Calif.
    Technical Communications Developer, QSC Audio
    The type of wood isn't very important, except as it relates to rigidity and mass.
  9. unless we're not talking plywoods. Whole woods definitely will effect the box's timbre. Depends on if you want to "hear" the box in the equation. If you DON'T, use plywood. Go void free, and use stiffeners to deaden the box.

    But some manufacturers work with whole woods (Dr Z & Groove Tubes come to mind) and exploit the tones inherent in the wood.
  10. Bob Lee (QSC)

    Bob Lee (QSC) In case you missed it, I work for QSC Audio! Commercial User

    Jul 3, 2001
    Costa Mesa, Calif.
    Technical Communications Developer, QSC Audio
    I covered that with the rigidity and mass disclaimer.

    Wood used in a speaker cabinet should not have "tone." Its job is to provide a rigid chamber of air for the back of the loudspeaker driver. You want wood that won't flex because it either is extremely rigid or is at least heavy enough to inertially resist the forces of the changing air pressures within the cabinet.

    Plywood tends to be very rigid, and in both directions (whole wood tends to have different rigidity in the on-grain and cross-grain axes). MDF isn't as rigid, but it sure has mass. ;)
  11. Ok, but would you say that real woods effect the timbre of the resultant tone? I agree on all your other points, but was just curious to this. To that end, I've never made side-by side examples with which to base a comparo either.

    You work for QSC? That's cool if so.... I work for EAW. QSC makes great amps.
  12. Petebass


    Dec 22, 2002
    QLD Australia
    I agree. You'll know pretty quickly if your cab isn't rigid. It'll make buzzing noises until it eventually falls apart. Combine low frequencies with high SPL and we are working up quite a bit of energy for the cab to deal with. So make your ply as thicker as you go lower and louder. In most cases, 19mm (3/4 inch) is plenty thick enough for bass amplification. I even got away with 12mm on my lightweight 2x10 but it doesn't produce a lot of bottom end. If I was building PA subs that g flat to 30Hz, I'd go thicker than 19mm...........
  13. Bob Lee (QSC)

    Bob Lee (QSC) In case you missed it, I work for QSC Audio! Commercial User

    Jul 3, 2001
    Costa Mesa, Calif.
    Technical Communications Developer, QSC Audio
    Certainly mahogany would yield different results than balsa of equal thickness, for example. It relates to the physical properties that determine the wood's ability to make up a rigid box.

    Plywood has a great stiffness-to-weight ratio, and it's relatively easy to cut and machine. Carbon fiber composite material has a much greater ratio, but it's more difficult to manufacture.

    EAW makes great loudspeakers. I've been to Whitinsville a few times. Say hi to everyone there.

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