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homemade budget 1x15 x2

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by black_labb, Mar 12, 2008.

  1. i picked up a couple 15" speakers from warehouse guitar speakers a few months ago when visiting family in canada (the 16 ohm ones were on special for 30$, so i couldnt resist). i left them alone for a while, but recently got interested in making them (felt i needed a bit of a break from making instruments, as i have 4 on the go).

    i used win isd to design the cab, really maked the process easy and simple. even calculates the dimensions of the outside depending on your material thickness. i decided to do a 130L cab that was going to be ported. i was originally going to make a 200L one and a 130L one, but decided that 200L would be way too big (the 130L is plenty big). i dont think the fundamental is ever amplified properly anyway so im doing a 130L ported cab as well as a smaller 80L with the second speaker, after i make and test the 130L.

    i decided to make it from mdf as i wouldnt have to worry about voids, it supposed to sound better for bass and it was cheap and easy to get. i got it precut to my dimensions at a somewhat local "board factory". i thought that would make putting it together go quickly. it was quite easy, but deffinately not quick. the construction was simple butt joints with an 18mmx18mm piece of timber around each of the edges (ended up going through over 5m of it!). i was going to use ply for the baffle, but ended up going mdf again, due to the price and availability (and got the rest of the piece cut for the cab for the second speaker, a smaller cab at 80L, as opposed to the 130).

    at the moment i got the cab in a state that it is playable, but havent done a number of things

    i still need to put the ports into the baffle (atm its a sealed cab, porting it will get some more low end and more volume. im planning to tune the porting to between 45 and 50hz). ill use 65mm pvc pipe for the ports (2 at the bottom)

    i need to get some more suitable screws to hold the speaker on, currently they are too long and meant to be countersunk, which means i had to make some little spacers to ensure that the thread was cutting, as opposed to the flat piece of the screw into the baffle.

    i havent glued the sides (there are over 100 screws holding it together, so i will have to take them all out when i glue it, im thinking i might try loosening the screws holding one panel on, put enough glue in there and spread it as well as i can then screw it back on, to avoid doing it all)

    i will be covering the cab in something, but that will most likely be a while away. might make the second smaller one and cover them both at the same time.

    i need to make the baffle cover (or whatever its called) and mount it

    i need to put the filling material into the cab.

    being completely 18mm mdf (and some 18x18mm pieces for the frame) its heavy. i will be putting some wheels on the side (2 wheels and a handle, to wheel it around like a 2 wheeled trolley. should work fairly well.

    the cab has come out very cheap. i picked up 2 of the speakers for 30$ american each when visiting family in canada (i live in australia now). the speakers were on special for 30$, they are 75$ american each now. the mdf was 70$ in total, cut to size (that includes the second cab as well. other than that i spent 20$ on the 18x18 (i used over 5m of it , i thought i bought enough for both cabs, but i ended up with less than 200mm left). along with 10$ on screws (have around 40 from 200 left) that comes to aprox 100$ each thus far including the speakers.

    my cheap bass combo died, and insread of doing a quick fix on it, i decided to work on the cab. ill be running a 200w tube amp i picked up for a bargain on ebay (500$ australian, with a 4x12 cab. was made for guitar, but with that power i thought bass would be more suitable)

    i have 1 question. when you measure the port length, do you measure the total length of the port (ie from the outer edge of the baffle, to where the port ends)

    or do you measure how far the port sticks into the cab from the baffle (ie measuring from the inner edge of the baffle to the end of the port, even if the port extends to the front of the baffle)

    i asked it in another thread earlier, but the answer wasnt completely clear to me. if you dont mind answering by quoting the correct one and saying its right to avoid me being comfused again id apreciate it.

    here are pics of it at its current stage. i want to give it a bit of a run through before porting it to examine the difference.

    i havent been able to play it at any levels but the softest (late at night), so im not sure how it sounds at this stage. ill give it a try tomorrow.




  2. fdeck

    fdeck Supporting Member Commercial User

    Mar 20, 2004
    Madison WI
    HPF Technology LLC
    This way is correct. Enjoy the project!
  3. thanks, when i asked the question before it seemed to be the other way around but i was a bit comfused, but this way made mroe sense to me.
  4. Hi there mate,

    Congrats on the build!

    I made up a couple of 15" cabs, both with two ports.
    I used two ports, so I could get away with using shorter port lengths. I guess the more you use, the shorter they get. But I've been told more than a few can cause other problems....
    Also - make sure you don't make the port diameter too small.

    BTW, would that be a HOLDEN WASP you're playing through?
  5. definitely is a holden wasp, got it around a year ago through ebay (got a bargain for it, 500$ with a 4x12 with 4 plessey 12u50's) i bought it as i was interested in making a bass amp, and thought if it didnt sound very good i could use the transformers and chassis and head, and redo the wiring myself. it sounds good (fair bit of hum though). i play guitar mainly so having a good 4x12 is nice too, even if they are completely un-nessisary. ive replaced the cathode bypass cap on the preamp with 25uf values to get a bit of a thicker sound from it, but im thinking that i might draw out the circuit diagram for it and possibly make some more in depth changes to better suit it to bass. its a 200w version with 4 6550's in it by the way.
  6. Sweet.

    The Holden pre-amps are a little noisy from what I've heard.
    I have a 200w WASP SLAVE unit myself, (which I also play through a pair of home-brew 1x15's:)) and find it as quiet as a SS poweramp.
    I guess it may be possible to simply create a bypass straight to the Power section, using some sort of EQ / sansamp etc, if you're really keen on getting rid of the noise.

    If you're after HOLDEN/WASP info for schematics etc., look here;
    My wasp is actually on here too...

    Getting to cab tuning - I tuned both of my 1x15 cabs identically to 40Hz. I like it. I almost always tune down two whole steps, so having the low tuning really helps to emphasise that Low C.:cool:
    Good Luck, smo
  7. thats looks great to me:D:bassist:
    wonder if i also could build cabs like these since i would never really have the money to afford big real combos/cabs+amps...
    hey! how do you learn to build these???:hyper:
  8. murphy


    May 5, 2004
    Toronto, Canada
    Beautiful job.
  9. thanks for the props guys.

    planning on covering the cab in a brown vinyl material, and having a tan grillcoth (ie shadecloth)

    ive seen the ozvalve amps, ive actually sent an email to the guy running it with pics and such and he has a pic of my preamps somewhere on the site. im going to send him a sschematic of the preamps soon, as i drew it out last night (just need to redraw it) im thinking of putting my own preamp in there, and just completely remove the preamp in there already. im thinking of a ef86 into a tone stack/vol control (bassically a control that adjusts the volume for bass and treble, then a mid boost where i can adjust how far they expand into the high mids and low mids as well. im not sure how well it will work like that, but ill consult some people who know more about it before i do it.
  10. for planning the shape and the shape and such, i'd use winisd, which is a spftware that you input the speakers properties (thele small parameters) and it models the frequency response of the speaker cab, and also tells you the size ports you would need. as for making the thing, i did a bit of asking around, a bit of research and alot of planning. i have some knowledge of woodwork, but alot of thinking and planning. i have a pretty good feel for making things myself, as thats jsut what i love to do. ive always made things (i made the bass in the pic (not quite finished) along with a couple guitars and 2 guitar amps, as well as some other not musi related items. i probably enjoy making instruments, amps and now cabs as i do playing them.

    basically i used butt joints to put the pieces together, meaning i put the square parts together, instead of doing anything to compliacated, and i put some square pieces of wood along each of the edges on the inside to screw it all to, adn support the corners.

    if you plan on doing someting like this, i highly recomend that you plan everything out first, and then draw it all out before even thinking about ordering the mdf/ply.
  11. could you please recommend some website or something where i can learn about building (bass) cabs?? i know nothing about it so i have to start to know about the cab construction from the scratch i would also search around but it would be great if i get some help

    and if in an around an year's time i could learn to build cabs i would buy a nice head with the money i might save!:)
  12. thanks!
  13. no the link aint working :(
  14. just worked for me jus then. try searching google for homemade bass cab or something like that, thats how i came across it.
  15. Kennethfaria

    Kennethfaria Banned

    Mar 12, 2008
    And Varun.

    Become familiar with WINISD. OR get some BFM plans. :D
  16. i cant stress this enough.
  17. Wootsticks


    Jul 26, 2007
    Houston, TX
    It matches your bass!
  18. joelc1319


    Sep 12, 2007
    +1!!! I'm in the process of building an Omni 10.5 right now (Check my thread "DIY 2x10 Cab, or 2x10/2x6 cab" to see progress). Plans were only $15, and includes plans for both the Omni 10 and Omni 10.5 (half-size). Mr. Fitzmaurice also has plans for Omni 15's, and other enclosures that use 15" speakers. Check it out!
  19. haha, shouldnt for too long as ill be putting some type of material over it. the bass will have a clear finish on it sometime soon, and some more suitable puckup covers as well to make them match less.

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