How many J bass frets in a bushel? - Worthless survey

I'm used to 20 so I said 21. I find myself bending the 20th from time to time so I wouldn't mind one myself.

Can we know what bass or do we have to wait in suspense?

 

I vote 26

 

Vote changed and I just loaded "the waiting game" up to play... I'll be here waiting.

 

If it's a traditional J body, it would be really hard to use any frets more than about 21, so 24 would be a waste, IMO.

 

Well, 20, 21, or 24 sounds like you're looking at a Warmoth build. In which case, I definitely would not get the 24 fret neck as I just don't think those extra frets would be reachable/useable. And, personally, if it costs any extra (I can't remember), I would not get the 21. But, if it's the same price, I might get the 21, just 'cuz more. The only time I play anywhere near the 20th fret is when I'm checking the action - in other words, I never actually play up there.

The Warmoth necks all have the same neck heel and fit in the same neck pocket. The 21 and 24 fret necks just have extended fingerboards that overhang the body. So, from that perspective it doesn't really matter.

 

36 or 0

 

While I prefer 24 for higher up playing (especially on 6 strings), that isn't you. Plus if you slap at all now or in the future, slap tone is better for the lowest numbers. Hence I recommend 21.

 

I'd be happy with 12.

 

On a "traditional" J? 21 frets.

On a downsized "modern" J (think Carvin JB)? 22.

 

There's not much below 7 in my world these days!!

 

Probably 21, if your options are 21, 22 or 24. It really depends.

My J has 20, (traditional body) I can access the 20th fret on the D and G strings easily but the A or E strings are a challenge..
M P has 21, on a traditional P body so the 21st fret is overhanging the pickguard. It can only really be accessed when tapping (which isn't something I really do)

Now if the body is not completely traditional and has a deeper cutaway on the lower horn or something then all are fair game.

If you share the brand your considering I'm sure folks could give a better idea as to the accessibility of the upper registers.

Are you looking to use a specific technique with this bass? Some people prefer the tonal quality of 21 frets over 24 frets for slapping... just throwing that out there.

 

I voted for 24, as that's what my Mike Lull M5 & upcoming PJ5-24 as well as my "Jazz-i-fied" Spector Euro ReBop 4&5 DLX FM/EXs (electronics gutted @ replaced with Custom EMG-sized Nordstrand Big Singles & Aguilar OBP-3SK/PPs) have, but have owned and have been comfortable playing 22, 21 & 20-fret Basses. Loosing the "E-string Octave" on a 20-fret Bass, I simply feel "too limited" on the Fretboard - ultimately I prefer the "Vertical & Horizontal Options" of a 24-fret 'board, IMO.

I also feel that oftentimes the number of frets influence the body design, and that for a "Smaller Body-Sized Bassist" such as myself, 22 & 24-fret Basses (with the "Dinky J" design, more often than not) have smaller bodies and are both ergonomically as well as weight-wise more comfortable to play.

 

What are you used to playing? I play 24 fret basses most of the time, but when i switch to one of my 22 fret ones, i tent to play sharp (over reach) by a fret or two...... I don't look at my neck much. I suppose this is just a muscle memory thing, but the 1st set is a little weird feeling.