I just bought a 2003 60's Ri Jazz Bass mim. I noticed it had a fair amount of relief so I removed the neck and tighten the truss rod nut, it was already almost maxed. it didn't seem to do anything so I removed the truss rod nut and clamped the neck for a couple days. I just reinstalled it and there's still a bit of relief with the nut maxed out. how straight should the neck actually be, I know a little relief is ok but how much? is the neck pooched
It's difficult to give a general answer, since every bass is so different, but as a ballpark starting point, I usually set a bass with about 1/64" relief, then see how it plays, adjusting (rarely more, but sometimes less) until it feels right. YMMV, yada, yada, yada.
thanks guys looks like it's .035, maybe a little more and the nut's maxed out. would spacers help? is this not looking good? I used to play hockey and we'd curve our sticks with heat, do I have to get the heat gun out?
Yes spacers will give you more thread space to tighten it further and get it where you want it. They move the nut back away from the beginning of the threads.
The neck radius will play a factor in how much relief to set. The lower the radius, the more neck relief it will need, and vice versa. For example, a neck with a 7.25" radius would need more relief than a neck with a 16" radius. That's just a general recommendation that I've gathered from some various setup guides that I've learned from. .015" would actually be the max that I would set for myself. The two basses I own are a Mike Lull P bass and a Mike Lull jazz bass, both 4 string with a 12" neck radius. I keep the relief on both of them set at .012". I've played on basses before where the relief was set above .020", it was almost unplayable to me. I learned to do my own setups a few years ago, using Fender's "Bass Guitar Setup Guide" as a reference. I found their recommended settings to be very close to my preferences. This is Fender's recommended neck relief settings, according to the radius of the neck: Radius: 7.25" --- Relief: .014" Radius: 9.5" to 12" --- Relief: .012" Radius: 15" to 17" --- Relief: .010" Granted, that's just a general recommendation, but it fits my preferences very well. Someone with different tastes and/or playing style may prefer different settings than that.
Riis is right, we're talking two thousandths of an inch. Whoa! As for your original question, a neck needs adjustment whenever it needs adjustment. The same changes on two identical basses will yield two different results. Adjusting a truss rod is not magic, it is a simple procedure that all players must know. I was talking to a kid the other day that is sending his Rickenbacker over 1500 miles for a truss adjustment by a specialist. LOL. I read the manual for old type Ric rods and can do it easily for him. I swear half the bass players in the world think a genie lives in there.
yeah it's not something I've ever been too concerned with until recently. one of my friends is a guitar tech who's worked for Joni Mitchell, KD Lang etc., he would do my setups. I've even done refrets with the help of bandmate in the past but this truss rod issue is a new one for me. I have to find some spacers and see if that does the trick.
From what I've learned about these things (granted that may not be much and it certainly is never enough!), you do want some relief on your neck no matter what - be it fretless or fretted. I tend to use the 'business card gauge' and like to keep the relief within 2 cards worth; one card thickness is optimum. I supose I should just measure what that is (mm though), but since card stock varies, I haven't bothered. It was good to read about the Fender guide though - very helpful and confirms what I've been doing already. Thanks!
It may continue to "Flatten" out a bit depending on how high your bridge is. Can you get nice low action and make it playable with Bridge adjustment?
Sounds like a problem neck if truss rod is maxed and you cant get dead flat neck. I go for minimum relief myself and wouldnt own a basss whose truss rod doesnt allow any play room with minimum relief. Makes bass unaccepotable if heavier gauge or heavier tension strings where ever used. I use 45-105. This also creates real problem for playability if weather changes made adjustment for flatter needed.
EH, Those MIM P-basses play like a dream with a little extra relief. I'd play the %#$ out of that baby. Drop the saddles down and have at it.
Some say that .012 is the "standard", but up to .03 (a credit cards thickness) is fine, and what I prefer. If you play on your lower frets a lot or if your fretwork is less than stellar - having a tad more relief can be helpful relative to fret buzz. In reality - it's just not much more, and won't change the playability.
Actually, it is two and a half times as much. That is a lot. If the fretwork is less than stellar, fret dressing or replacement is the remedy.
If I had a neck with 0.030" relief I'd buy a quill of arrows and a bail of hay IMHO... a player's preferred neck relief and action is a very personal choice. Set it up how you like it