How should the ideal bass guitar ?

My ALL TIME favorite...................... http://www.mtdkingston.com/images/MTD_Difference_Two.pdf

 

Good that.......

Neck "Radius" is hardly ever mentioned when people discuss their acquisitions or reasons for buying here.

Many posts appear to be all about "Brand" plus "Vintage".

How many times do we see " I'm Gassing for a (19--fill in year) ( Fill in make).

Then a reference to the great Pups it came with and then the "awesome tone' reference.

I cannot stand neck-dive myself..........but if you took all the bass guitars that come with atrocious factory neck dive off the shelves that would get rid of at least two thirds of them right there.

It's techically pretty easy to make a bass with no neck dive....so I don't know why the big names keep producing basses that have it.

 

there are only two of those I like--and there are other variations of them (The U & C), even a soft V doesn't fit well to me. I could play one if I had to, but it wouldn't be my first choice.
Most basses I've played have a neck closest tot eh U or the C with some like the flat oval.

 

Radius is on my radar. I prefer 7.25" through 10". Anything greater than than 10" and I'm out. I don't dig a 12" radius (ala Sadowsky or Lull). My checklist starts with nut width, radius, and then weight.

 

Hey man great post! Totally agree on all points you mention Ulas. They should all be considered carefully if you want a professional tool that is going to last you long and make playing more efficient and comfortable for you.
For example, I personally like a thin U or D shape neck with a radius of 440 on a 5 string or 340 on a 4 string. I also prefer mid sized frets to thin ones or jumbo's, I also like a higher mass top loading bridge (which can help weight the body and help resonance). If the bass can weigh in around 4KGs or so then that's a bonus too! 5KG is too much, 4.5 is OK but not ideal....3.8 - 4.2 is comfortable for me.
string spacing has to be 18 - 19mm for me, 20 is too wide though as i have medium sized hands.
What about body materials? I personally like light Ash as a body wood. It seems to have great tone and resonance plus the lighter weight advantage.

 

I've been really interested in the neck shapes on Rick Toone's instruments, I don't know if they're as comfortable to play as they say they are, but it does interest me that there are several choices tailored on how you prefer to hold the instrument.

http://www.ricktoone.com/neck-profiles-licensing.html

 

Sorry if this may seem off-topic. But, I can't help myself. It just looks too interesting with that finish.

To the OP: What's the bass in your avatar you're holding? Any pics of it? Thanks.

 

I don't know a neck profile from a Facebook profile I have never given it that much thought to me if the tone is there I can put up with just about anything.

 

This is a great article if you plan on having one main bass. If you have an arsenal of Fenders, Rics, Gibsons and a Hofner, you know that the criteria used to choose an instrument varies. Sound, playability, reliability, vibe and appearance are all important factors. Besides, whatever tool is right for the job at hand is the one you most likely will use. I can't imagine auditioning for a YES tribute band and showing up with an EBO.

 

Neck radius is, for me, more important than nut width. I'd rather have a wide nut and a thinner distance between fingers and thumb (larger radius) for playing comfort.

I also need adaptability in a bass. One sound won't cut it - I need a mid boost for solos and a more pronounced rear pickup sound for certain types of track.

And more than comfort and adaptability, I need to hear every frequency of my bass through a band mix. I don't want to be buried and struggle to hear what I'm playing.

 

I did a survey about this a while back and found that the Ideal bass guitar for TB'ers (constructed from the most chosen options) was:
A Solid Body 34" 4 string Jazz made of Ash with:

A Clear Nitro Finish
Passive Electronics
Fretted, 24 frets
Maple Jazz neck (70's), Rosewood Fingerboard (by a narrow margin)
Hipshot A bridge
No top wood, but if there were to be, it would be quilted maple
Pickups: Tie between P and PJ
No pickguard (if there were, it would be a P, no definite color)
4 inline Hipshot ultralight tuners on a Fender shaped headstock
No inlays, but if there were they would be mother of Pearl
12" finger board radius
19mm string spacing at bridge
1 3/4" nut width
Volume/volume/tone

 

Yes, I can appreciate that any bass can be adapted towards the player's preference, but some of us aren't into modifying things. For many, it's down to looking and playing as many basses as we can and finding the one that fits. And yes, it's always a compromise. That's why we professional musicians usually have one main instrument and a few others for other situations.