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How to attack my neck blank?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by roberthabraken, Mar 26, 2009.

  1. I received the neck blank I ordered yesterday and found out it isn't really straight. It's hard rock maple (plain), 92 cm long, 22 mm thick and about 10 cm wide. The gap is about 2 mm on one side if I try to put it flat on the table.

    I want an angled headstock, so cutting and glueing the headstock piece was the first step I wanted to take. Followed by routing the truss rod channel and cutting out the rough shape.

    But it feels kind of bad to start with this, without handling the warp. How should I take care of this?

    It's not very clear, but you can see the shadow underneath the blank. This should be there.

    And a close up of the end of the blank:

    (I phoned the guy from the shop and he said maybe you can use some sand paper to get it flat.... you know.. it's hard rock maple.. and 2 mm..)
  2. JC Basses

    JC Basses

    Mar 12, 2009
    Rocklin, CA
    If you have access to a jointer or planer or thickness sander, it would be easy to fix. You could always clamp it flat for a few days. Sometimes it helps to moisten the board so it bends easier. Let it dry clamped flat and you should be fine.
  3. Thanks, I do not have a jointer or planer or thickness sander, but I like the bending idea (just waiting is less effort than planing it by hand). How 'moistened' should it be? Hold it under the tap?
  4. JC Basses

    JC Basses

    Mar 12, 2009
    Rocklin, CA
    I've never done something that thick before, but for thinner boards basically hold under the tap for a minute or so. Yours might take longer. Just make sure you have something setup to clamp it perfectly flat.

    Maybe someone with more experience in this can chime in??
  5. Zombbg4


    Jul 15, 2008
    Nor do I have a joiner/plainer, so I called around a bit and found a guy with very reasonable rates to do it for me. Give it a shot.
  6. That was an easy and good idea. And so I did! I emailed a local furniture / cabinet maker and it was absolutely no problem. I can stop by tomorrow! :hyper:
  7. The Insane

    The Insane

    Jul 12, 2007
    Yup, I would definately recommend getting a planer or finding someone who can do this for you. I think wetting and clamping will make other things worse (I don't believe it will help anything within this dimensions). You do want to have a quality neck with good joints, don't you :) Then find a planer.

    EDIT: Ah, just saw you post, great solution!
  8. Thanks guys. I'll post the result tomorrow!
  9. JC Basses

    JC Basses

    Mar 12, 2009
    Rocklin, CA
    The reason I suggested the wetting/clamping was if the board was the right uniform thickness, just warped. It could be flattened out and have the right dimensions. If you run it over the jointer and then through the planer, you will lose thickness to accomplish the same goal. I don't know how much thickness you have to spare, so it's something to keep in mind.

    If the board was not a uniform thickness, then by all mean, run it through the planer to square it all up.
  10. ATTACK IT WITH A CHAINSAW!!!!!!:bassist:

    (couldn't resist):meh:

    (this post ain't trolling it is just a joke):rolleyes:

  11. jordan_frerichs


    Jan 20, 2008
    I should do that. I have an ash body with a few lumps on it that needs a quick pass on both sides. school's planer (i am back in woods class:hyper::hyper::hyper:) is the thing that made it lumpy, and it is too wide for my friend's planer (is 13.5" too wide for a solid body?).

    Good luck on the neck, Rob! I do think that a neck with laminates and a non-traditional fingerboard wood would compliment the body way more, imo, but i always say that. Is it a bolt-on or a glue-on neck?
  12. boomba


    Feb 13, 2008
    Buffalo NY
    For the warped neck you need a jointer not a planer. A jointer will make the neck straight while a planer only makes the board a uniform thickness. A planer will not take the warp out of a board.
  13. Thanks! I'd never know the difference.. but I found this sentence on Wikipedia: "The term "planer" is an acceptable synonym for "jointer" in the UK and Australia, but not in North America, where the former term refers exclusively to a thickness planer."

    Now I know what you mean :smug:.. a thickness planer wouldn't do anything, because it already is of uniform thickness. So I'll ask them to use a jointer.
  14. boomba


    Feb 13, 2008
    Buffalo NY
    WOW! You are really researching this! Good luck with your build.
  15. I guess so :D. I just returned from the cabinet maker and it's flat enough right now to proceed. So I cut the side square to the front and back and started of with the scarf joint.

    The rest of the progress can be followed in my building thread: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=509498

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