How to disconnect tweeter?

There is probably a crossover in the cabinet. You may not have to cut the wires. Many times the wires are terminated with connectors that will just slide off. Do that if you can. That way if you ever go to sell it in the future, you can re-connect them if you want.

 

I'm not familiar with your cab, but I would check to make sure you aren't changing the impedance by removing the tweeter.

 

I trust that you insulated the ends so they can't short out on anything, right?

 

Hi.

Not quite, and no.

You obviously can, as you already did, just cut the tweeter from the circuit, but that seldom -if ever- works well in the long run.

Unless there's a dedicated cross-over there and a "real" hi-frequency horn, all You'll do is to reduce the cab's high frequency sensitivity and directivity.

If You mean You just pulled the tweeter leads off, doing it the right way would've been a bit more involving, but not by much .

Because:

Do remove the tweeter and the possible cross-over (even if it's just one cap or just a few parts) from the signal chain by connecting the speaker leads just to the woofer.

Rgards
Sam

 

It depends on what the crossover looks like. If it's only a capacitor, or a capacitor with a resistor in parallel with the tweeter, then you can pull the tweeter. But if the crossover is made up with inductors as well, you can't pull the tweeter straight, or the amp will short circuit. In that case, and to play it safe in all cases, disconnect wires in the crossover in the earliest stage, closest to the amp.

 

BTW, disconnecting the tweeter will not change the impedance of the cab.

Ciao

Uwe

 

That's the intended result!

 

Ideally, you should replace the tweeter with a load resistor, or remove or bypass the crossover completely.

 

Bypassing the crossover does allow you to get any remaining high frequency response out of the woofer(s) that may be getting cut off by the tweeter circuit.

 

The Yorkville XM200 has a piezo tweeter (Google it) so there's no crossover at all. Piezos reject frequencies below their cutoff point automatically and usually use a simple parallel connection.
It's probably closer to it's nominal rating without the tweeter, since most bass drivers are 4 or 8 ohms.

Y'all are over-thinking this stuff.

Bottom Line = Happy Modder

 

I plan to bypass the tweeter and x-over in my cab(s) for this reason, and it's a valid point for many people looking for better mid/high response vs brittle tweeter highs.
If you don't overload your bass drivers with very low freq content they can manage to put out a surprising amount of rich and useful higher freq information.
Trying to make a single 15" sound like a PA sub is the other side of this coin. I call tails.

 

It IS a piezo tweeter. There is no crossover. As with most bass cabinets with tweeters, the woofer runs full range...no crossover.

 

Hi.

I don't see it as over-thinking, but as directing people to better practices when removing sections of electrical circuits.

People are IMO way too eager to take the easiest route possible, and in a more complex circuit the easy route could cause troubles. "Cutting from the source" however works safely every time.

This has indeed been discussed previously, and I do know I'm in the minority with my line of thinking over here, but that is not going to make me stop .

Regards
Sam

 

Boomie is right about this. Some tweeters (piezo) are their own crossovers. Those you simply disconnect. Bass speaker runs full range.

Some voice coil tweeters just use a single capacitor for a crossover. Basically all it does is keep lows out of the tweeter to keep from over heating it. Those you just disconnect.

But if you've got a top of the line system the crossover will be more complex and will keep highs out of the bass speaker (the range where it gets flakey) and lows out of the tweeter (to protect it). The bottom line is that if you just disonnect the tweeter the bass driver will still have all the highs rolled off and may sound "tubby". To cut out the tweeter in such a cab you have to disconnect the whole crossover and reconnect the bass speaker to the input line. A somewhat more complex operation. If I had a rig like that...Oh wait! I DO have a rig like that, my solution is/was to install a volume pot (it's called a volume L-pad or something like that and has to be of wattage to match tweeter rating) on the tweeter so I can turn it down rather than simply remove it. That way I can find the balance of highs and lows I'm looking for. (I really don't think I've changed the setting since I first installed it and found the "sweet spot".

One final word. I've got some of those standard piezo tweeters you see everywhere intalled on this and that cab and I've found them to all be WAY too loud and hence too bright to match decent bass drivers. My trick is to always install them in pairs wired in series which cuts the volume down to just about the right level.

 

My point is that many answers to the OP's question go on and on about stuff that doesn't apply to his situation.

Answer the question with the pertinent facts.
Seems like everyone got all theoretical without researching the cab first.

When somebody asks the same question but their cab has a crossover, educate away. Otherwise, simple answers for simple questions so you don't freak out or confuse people.