I Hate My Gloss Neck!

I have one bass like that too. I use talcum powder when I play that bass. Over time, even talc is an abrasive and will reduce the tendency of having to continue using the talc.

I've also heard some take a scotchbrite pad (green one) and bring just the handling area on the back of the neck into submission. You don't wanna bring it to bareness. The idea is to reduce the gloss only. I haven't tried that though. I have removed gloss entirely though and reshot it.

And yes, it would effect the wood in a negative manner. Bare wood is more succeptible to climate mood swings. It'll absorb and repell moisture in a manner you really don't want happenning. If you haven't heard the term "banana" neck you're lucky it's not happenning to yours. All exposed wood needs protection.

 

I wouldn't have any steel wool in the same area as a bass. NO. Don't use it. It has the potential of attracting to the electronics. You'll have cross-shorts and shorts-to-ground and essentially keep people like me in business.

 

I'd say just be gentle. Tape the edge of the fingerboard and take it slow. Use even strokes throughout so the finish is reduced evenly. I imagine it not taking more than about 5 to 10 minutes. But again, I have not done this before, but it sounds feasible.

 

You can certainly use steel wool. If you don't take the neck off first, I would cover the pickups with blue masking tape in order to make sure steel wool fragments don't stick permanently to them (not permanently, it's just really hard to get all those tiny bits off). Go slowly and lightly until you get a matte finish that slides easily. You don't want to remove the finish, just degloss it.

 

Unfinished necks for the win

 

Unfinished necks for the BOW! An oiled neck is fantastic, but totally unfinished is too susceptible to weather changes.

 

I've read the same thing on other forums, as well, but have never tried it myself.

Steel wool could possibly do the job as well, but it would be a good idea to seal off the entire body with a plastic bag and a careful tape job before starting with the steel wool. When you're all done, vacuum EVERYTHING before removing the bag.

I would proceed carefully in a small area and make sure you like the result before going at the whole neck.

 

I thought I had already mentioned this~! If you want to mask of an entire bass, by all means, use your precious steel wool . . . on YOUR bass, not mine bud.

 

I did this to my Sting PBass and it worked out really well. Going to do it to my G&L L2k. Dan Lakin from Lakland actually turned me on to this.

Key Point - you will not find the right Scotch Brite pads in the cleaning section. They are, appropriately, in the paint section of your hardware retailer, with the stain products. Which makes sense given what we're going to do with them.

JIM

 

If you HAVE to use something metallic, why don't you use bronze wool? It is available at most woodworking shops and will not stick to your pickups. If you use something metallic you run the risk of shorting out your electronics. I used a really fine scotch-brite pad on mine that I bought at t paint store. Taped off where I wanted to stop and used a light touch. Worked like a champ. Dan K.

 

Get one of those kitchen sponges with the green Scotchbrite on one side. Light, slow, and steady as Trevorus suggested.

You'll see the finish dulling to matte as you work. Clean dust with a cloth, inspect under good light, and repeat as necessary. Periodically, you may have to repeat the treatment.

Works great.

 

Can't say I've ever experienced such issues with my Wenge-neck Warwicks, which have been from the Alps to the Mojave to sunny, humid East San Diego. They aren't even oiled, either. Did you read that in a book somewhere or what?

 

I'm more talking about maple. Wenge has enough natural oils to not need it. I think Ovankol is also similar in that respect.

 

It's not such a dramatic situation as this. If it's a bolt on neck, just take it off.

 

I've used steel wool on necks and, yes get some of the residue sticking to the pickups but this hasn't caused a problem. I take the finish off all my necks with 600 grit sandpaper down to the wood or close to it.

 

Use a Scotch-brite pad. They should be in the same aisle, probably right next to the steel wool at your local Lowe's, Home Depot, Wal-Mart, etc. They are just as effective as steel wool at removing a finish.

 

I used to use a 1"x2" piece of emery cloth, as fine as I could find, soaked in a bowl of warm dishsoap. (Think Madge from the Palmolive commercials.) Take the piece out and very lightly sand little circles up and down the neck. Less is more - you can always repeat the procedure.

Breaks that shiny sticky gloss layer, maintains the wood lacquer and seal, and makes life much simpler. PLUS... if you ever want to sell the bass, it's easy to buff the finish back to gloss to make it look 'purty'.