I Messed Up & I Need Your Help!! (BO Neck/Body Joint Involving Glue)

Hey TB Brothers

Man, did I screw up!! This is my first attempt at a building project; though it's actually only a parts bass. As some may know (because I occasionally mention it), I am blind. I mention this here because it is a factor in the troubles I'm already having with this project. Because of blindness, I do things a bit differently. Also, I really don't have what most would consider proper tools, but for various (unimportant) reasons, I'm doing much of this build myself anyway.

After straightening up the neck pocket with sanding block/paper and elbow-grease, I used epoxy to join the neck to the pocket to hold it steady while I drilled screw holes. I got it aligned side-to-side just fine, but... Once everything was clamped in place, I checked all the joined surfaces for proper contact; all except where the clamp was preventing me access (G side, where there's no pocket wall). This was a spring clamp that was about 1" wide.

Several hours later, I removed the clamp and realized it had been covering an ugly gap between the back of the heel and the front of the pocket. I used a thin probe and discovered that this gap prevented the last 2-1/2 inches or so of the neck from seating properly. For all practical purposes, that pocket is empty! Of course, I imeediately thought of how I could've done it differently and had virtual success, but AFAIK, it's too late now.

So (finally) here's my question.

Were I to find the least viscous CA glue available and seep it into that gap, I could fill up that empty space and have absolute contact between back of heel and front of pocket. Wouldn't that be better than the open air that is there now? I don't know how well CA transfers vibrations, but in this case, I know that air doesn't at all!

I'd appreciate all advice/information from anybody. Thanks guys.

 

Yes, that's true. Sorry, I should've been more clear. I originally intended it to be a BO, but I think I used too much glue.

Since I don't have the proper tools and I use my hands for eyes, I don't have another one or two hands to use as hands. This being the case, I opted to use glue to hold everything in place.

As I previously eluded, I should've thought things through a bit further. I then would've just gone for a set neck and done it differently.

 

Well...uhmm... (sighing with embarrassment) Actually, aside of shaping and redoing routes/cavities, this is the first 'attachment' of anything I've done to this one. I thought I'd ask for this help before I went any further.

I've still got to drill for bridge, lay in a nut, attach machines.

BTW, I forgot to mention the following: Laying a straight-edge along the frets, puts that edge at 7/8"-1" above the top, where the bridge is to be. That's probably going to take quite a "high"-mass bridge, eh?

 

radii06-24-2008, 05:29 PM
I have used potting epoxy for electronics that is the most viscous epoxy I have come across. It only comes in black though. Not water-thin, but it will eventually reach ALL corners. It's made by 3M and is available at McMaster-Carr. It comes in a mixing cartridge, so you would have to also buy the mixing gun and nozzle for it.

I'll check that out, though mixing epoxy is not my specialty. The epoxy I already used was that putty stuff.


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Phil Mailloux06-24-2008, 05:31 PM
That's way too high, you're not going to find a bridge that high. Your only option is to fix the neck pocket.

I kind of thought that, but, I also thought of laying a piece of maple or ebony or similar wood beneath the bridge as a riser. Surely it'd look stupid though. Not to mention the playability would be questionable.

 

Hey Marty (aka FD4)

That's very good of you man. Very good. Actually, I've got three bridges on hand already, or rather two on hand and one on the way. So I think I'll wait and see what other advice I get here before I decide how to proceed; that is whether to leave the neck as is or making an attempt at removing it.

So go ahead an keep ahold of that bridge, You never know when what you have will come in handy. Thanks much for your offer though.

Brett

 

O.K. Got any suggestions on how I would go about removing it? I was able to find out that acetone will soften this epoxy and I was able to get down into the seams about 1/8". However, any blade that's as thin as the tip of blades I have (to dig into the entire seam depth), would most probably be too pliable.

Also, this doesn't even touch the issue of digging out behind the neck heel. Which, IMO, is what caused the problem in the first place.

I'm stumped guys!

 

Completely by touch man. The ole eyes don't work at all. Uhh, well...I can see the sun if I look directly at it, but...

As far as taking it to a professional goes, I'll have to think on that one. My time is worth every minute I put into this thing (I'm cheap labor), but a pros hourly wage?? I'm not sure it'll be worth it. I've less than $175 into the body & neck and that wasn't even all in cash.

I'll certainly talk to someone about it though. I figure that initial consult woun't cost much.

Thanks