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I sanded the neck on my bass!

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by PanteraFan, May 28, 2002.


  1. Well, I took some very fine sandpaper to the back of my bass neck. I used a system of six even up and down strokes, wipe with a damp cloth, wipe with a towel, repeats. After about 10 repetitions all the cruddy finish that had been applied by the Korean factory was removed. Bare wood on my bass neck now, and it's smooth as hell. I can play faster and I feel more connected with my instrument.

    I was going to tung-oil it, but then I thought about the used bass advantage - years of oils working into the neck and making it supple. Hell, I can play it well now, it should get better with age. I can really see the slight birdseye figuring near the neck joint now (how'sTHAT for a Korean bass?), and the neck just feels beautiful, like silk.

    I recommend the treatment to anyone, just get REALLY fine sand/glass paper, and wipe the neck thoroughly to remove the dust. You'll also notice that the neck feels better if you leave it overnight and pick it up the next morning. I also recommend you don't make any rapid humidity changes for a while, let your hand oils soak in for a while if you don't re-oil the neck.
     
  2. Listen

    Listen

    May 19, 2002
    did it make the neck narrow? If it did I'm gonna do the same
     
  3. PolkaHero

    PolkaHero Supporting Member

    Jan 5, 2002
    Michigan
    I did this to a Fender Jazz Plus I used to own. It made a big difference on how the neck felt. Highly recommend it for polyutherane finished necks.
     
  4. it is impossible for just 60 strokes up and down the back of the neck with 2000 grit sand paper to thin the neck out in any noticable amount (maybe .02mm probably less) all it does is removes the "gunk" that has built up over the years (months whatever floats cha boat) the gunk is what slows ya down.....

    my few cents
     
  5. rllefebv

    rllefebv

    Oct 17, 2000
    Newberg, Oregon
    All of that finish can get to feeling yucky after awhile, but remember that it is also helping to protect your neck from absorbing moisture... The idea of using tung oil on bare wood has merit in that it also seals the wood.

    Instead of using pure tung oil, you may want to mix the first coupla coats 50-50 with thinner to allow it to penetrate deeply. After that's dried, you can use straight oil, (or not...), rub 'er down with 4 ought steel wool to take the sheen off, and away you go!

    -robert
     
  6. Yeah, I didn't actually make the neck any thinner - that's why you get the neck shaved (NOT something I'd attempt myself). As for humidity changes, living here in Manchester I'm not really worried as it stays the same humidity all year around anyway :D.
     
  7. Oil from your skin will eventually turn the neck green if you remove all the finish. Been there, did that :D
     
  8. Monkey

    Monkey Supporting Member

    Mar 8, 2000
    Dayton, Ohio, USA
    That's gross, man! ;)
     
  9. ya and efter it stains the neck it is close to ipossible to get out, and ur stuck with a green smear after you do finish it, if you decide on it
     
  10. Makatak

    Makatak

    Apr 13, 2002
    New Zealand
    One part of the oiled body on my bass is slightly green , any suggestions on how to get rid of it , 1200 sandpaper reduced it , anything else ?
     
  11. Green neck? Cool!

    :D

    I'm really not bothered. When I'm rich and famous -yeah right :rolleyes: - it'll be getting a retrofit graphite neck anyway, Moses or Status custom. Might even get a Warmoth one with my exact wood choices, who knows?
     
  12. Monkey said...

    That's gross, man! ;)

    Gross, man - I never heard that one before.

    Now that's funny :D
     
  13. steve-o

    steve-o Guest

    Apr 17, 2002
    are school's jazz band bass is a Ibanez.
    well it is nice neckthrough and all.
    but last year someone spilt milk on it and left it over summer!!
    and now it has stuff growing off of it!! mildew i think.
    finish that wood!! tung oil it!!! it stills feels the same if you get the no gloss!!!

    steve
     
  14. What's the difference between Tung Oil and Gunstock Oil? I know Ernie Ball use Gunstock Oil, and Carvin use Tung. Does either have an advantage?

    Also, where would the best place to get these oils be?
     
  15. Tung oil and gunstock oil are both forms of Tung Oil. The "gunstock" oil referred to is actually a product by the Birchwood-Casey Co. that's called "Tru-Oil". It is a polymerized (hardening) tung oil that makes fabulous finishes. Remember, rifle and shotgun enthusiasts will pay $1000+ for exotic, figured stocks for their actions. They want the most beautiful and durable finishes on them. Rarely will they go for a Poly finish on these fine woods. The Tru-Oil really highlights the figuring, and is tough but reparable in case it gets dinged. Regular polymerized tung oil is also a good choice. It's just a little lighter in shade than the Tru-Oil.
     
  16. Thanks Hambone. The problem is that there aren't any specialist woodworkers around my town, i.e. no French polishers or anything like that. However, there are plenty of model and air rifle enthusiast stores, selling air rifles up to £1000. I would imagine that these stores sell gunstock/tung oil, no?
     
  17. Shops specializing in supplies for these might - I don't know for sure. An almost sure-fire source is a sporting goods store or try the web.

    I just saw that you are in the UK. I have no idea what special problems that poses :)

    Here's the url for Brownells - the largest supplier of shooting and gunsmith supplies:

    http://www.brownells.com/index.html

    They've got what you want in both liquid and aerosol forms
     
  18. I went to a gunsmiths nearby and asked for gunstock oil. They gave me English Walnut Oil Preparation. Here's the blurb on the back:

    "English Walnut Oil Preparation goes a long way and a very small amount is used at a time. The preparation is applied to the stock and fore-end and rubbed in, preferably with the palm of the hand as to produce some friction. The stock is then left to dry in a warm place for 24 hours. Repeated daily applications will produce a very fine finish which only needs occasional application after shooting, particularly after a wet day. Should a skin build up on the stock, it is easily removed without harm to the wood by gently rubbing with steel wool."

    The clerk told me that a freshly sanded piece of wood would need 2-3 applications per day if I wanted ultra-smooth, rather than just a hardened neck. I applied the first 'coat' at 9.30am yesterday, and it's now 11.53pm and the sixth coat is drying. My bass neck is now honey golden instead of pale maple, and is starting to feel and look very much like a Stingray neck. I can still feel a little roughness around the 3rd-9th frets, so I think I'll add a couple more coats and see how it goes. I'm also very gently rubbing the neck with the finest steel wool money can buy before each application. Sound good to all you experts?
     
  19. PhatBasstard

    PhatBasstard Spector Dissector Supporting Member

    Feb 3, 2002
    Las Vegas, NV.
    Well THAT answers a question thats been on my mind. Yuk!
     
  20. Showdown

    Showdown Supporting Member

    Jan 21, 2002
    Honolulu, Hawaii
    I bought Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil at Sports Authority, in the gun section. You should be able to find it in any good sporting goods store. It also makes an excellent finish for fretless fingerboards. Dries very hard and tough, and brings out the mwah. I believe it was Rick Turner in Bass Player that recommended it, and so I tried it and liked it.