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i set my inotation today...

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Casey C., Oct 28, 2000.

  1. Casey C.

    Casey C.

    Sep 16, 2000
    Butler, PA, USA
    took me atleast 5 hours to figure out...

    any how, i ended up raising my strings, BUT, i have a wilkinson style bridge on my carvin (the ones that are one the older models, you can move the pieces left to right). im not quite sure if i should have done this but there looks like there is 2 place to connect your strings to. i put it on the upper/ farther back one (because the notes were not matching up (it was sharp) when i raised it, no matter how far back the saddles were) but i put them there anyways, its seem fine. the only problem is that if i pluck it to hard the string comes off about 1/8 of an inch, but they go back to where they were. so was this a safe move? i thought i could do this because the strings fit well in there. im glad i fix the inotation, it sounds alot better.

    heres a pic of the brige, bad pic though:

    also should i raise the strings more? so the strings don't move...
  2. Casey, it sounds like you've got a lot of different issues here. Your setup doesn't sound like it's correct, even though the intonation appears to be. Your strings shouldn't move when played in any way (other than vibrate) and they should stay in the saddles of the bridge. Here's how I do my setups:

    1. Set the string height. All things being in correct repair and alignment, I use mostly the bridge for this adjustment. If I can't get it, then I investigate shimming the neck. Sometimes, a nut adjustment is necessary but unless it's a new nut, I will usually leave it alone. I always tune the open strings when setting the string height because I can get proper tension on the neck. Intonation isn't important so much right now.

    2. Set the intonation. Using a digital tuner, I will adjust the string length at the bridge and use a combination of open notes, fretted notes, and open harmonics for measurement. I will check it at various sections of the neck and adjust it accordingly.

    If you do this in order, you'll likely have a decent playing instrument. If your strings are slipping from their saddles, you might have to cut deeper grooves or lower the mounting point of the ball end to create more tension over the saddle. At any rate they should be next to impossible to slip from their seats.

    All of this might take about 2-3 hours to accomplish, even with some unforeseen conditions.

    Hope this helps
  3. eli

    eli Mad showoff 7-stringer and Wish lover Supporting Member

    Dec 12, 1999
    NW suburban Chicago

    I really don't think the higher, further back slots are for mounting the strings (though I'm not sure what they ARE for). You definitely need the downward pressure on the saddles that you get from hooking the string ends onto the little pins.

    But I'm perplexed by your statement that this changes the intonation! The only thing that should change that is the saddle position itself, not where the ball end of the string is. I have two Carvins with that same bridge, and I have no trouble getting good intonation.

    Did you loosen the set screw on each saddle before you tried the adjustment? It's a little Allen head screw in the little square on top of each little tail piece.

    Also, after each move, did you retune the open string to proper pitch before checking the octave?

    Beyond that, the only thing I can think of is that your strings might be shot. I'd recommend a new set.

    Hope I'm not telling you things you already know, but this one has me stumped...

  4. Casey C.

    Casey C.

    Sep 16, 2000
    Butler, PA, USA
    yes, i did loosen and moved the saddles before the adjustment. and i checked the octaves (thats why i changed them in hte first place) i think im gonna move them back down to the normal slot.
  5. eli

    eli Mad showoff 7-stringer and Wish lover Supporting Member

    Dec 12, 1999
    NW suburban Chicago
    Lemme know what happens, OK?


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