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I want too build my own Cab...How?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by PurplePurple, Apr 19, 2006.


  1. So I want too build my own cab too save some $. My dad knows alot about electronics and I know some people who have made them befor that I could ask for help. Where can I find the information about how too go about building one? I only want too build the standers 410's, no 212 115 or anything like that. I tried seraching but too no avail. Can anyone post a link or give advice? I would greate appreciate it.

    Thank You for your time.
     
  2. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

    Sep 7, 2000
    Chicago
    To be honest, you'd be better off buying one...it will sound better and it will have resale value.

    Shop here Http://www.avatarspeakers.com

    NCI, just a big fan of Dave's products...

    With Avatar's prices, you probably couldn't build one with the same components for less...
     
  3. gwx014

    gwx014

    Dec 22, 2005
    I just recently built myself a cab. (With the help of a friend who is really knowledable). 1) You want good wood. Baltic Birch is what I used it's light and sturdy. 2) Put lots of bracing in, Along the corners and from front to back. This will help it be a solid cab that's not going to flex alot at high volumes. 3) Another thing we did was line the inside, except for the front baffle, with acoustic foam. (You can get some at Guitar Center) 4) We made the front baffle double thick on the wood. To make it more solid. My friend did most of it since he's done it before. But I learned alot by helping and watching what he did.

    Have fun!
    :bassist: :hyper: :bassist: :hyper: :bassist:
     
  4. vyse933

    vyse933

    Mar 31, 2006
    Grand Haven, MI
    I second that. I love my avatar delta 4x10
     
  5. So looking at avatar cabs....




    Could I get 2 210s and hook them up together? Would it sound like a 410 but be lighter and easier too carry, even if it is slightly more expencive. Or would it be best i just get one of the 410s?
     
  6. Check this out, if you are willing to forgo the 4x10 route.

    You can build two of these, and they will crush a 4x10. You and your Dad can do it... easy build.
     
  7. bassksun

    bassksun

    Mar 5, 2004
    Las Vegas,NV
    +1 or 2 O12's You may never need another cab again. :hyper:
     
  8. Ok so as it turns out avatar doesn't ship too alaska. I'm interested at the omni 10. I'm slightly confused though. Do you pay for the plans and have them emailed and then go buy speakers and wood and parts that are mentioned in the plans that will be emailed out or am I purchasing an actuall thing where all i have too do is buy speakers and insert them into a pre-made thing. I seam too think that it is the latter but I'm not sure. Any one clear this up for me? Thanks.
     
  9. You should be so lucky.:D

    He sends you the plans and you build them. Honestly, to get the most bang for your buck, you have to build an engineered cab like that; building a simple, direct radiator isn't going to save you any money, especially when you factor in the cost of your labor, even more so if you get into multiple-speaker cabs.
    If you take the time to build an engineered cabinet, you're getting features found in higher-end commercially available units for alot less money. That's where the value of building your own box is.
    Have fun if you do it, I enjoy building cabs, but it doesn't save me any money....:D
    C7
     
  10. The poster has to ask himself some hard questions:

    Is he actually willing to spend the time on DIY?
    Are all the tools and any kind of skills present to do this?
    Is he willing to wait for DIY to complete, or is instant gratification required?

    DIY is not the route to instant gratification. However, DIY provides tremendous gratification when the project completes. Buy pre-engineered plans because they are tested and work. Home rolled DIY is mostly disappointing.

    An alternative to DIY is contracting with a builder or designer for your plans. This again involves delays, and is certainly not cheap. You get best-of-breed products, but you are definitely going to pay for them.

    If your income is from AFDC or a paper route, buy a (used) mass produced box. This is the least expensive way to go. There is always somebody "upgrading" and willing to sell an expensive main stream product at a loss. It is the American Way. You have to be ready with cash-in-hand to pounce on these deal when they come along.
     
  11. oldfclefer

    oldfclefer low ended

    May 5, 2005
    Southern Ohio
    I run a frankencab in my rig.

    What I've done is:

    I found a rare vintage jbl speaker, but I could have bought a nice new emminence or or some other premium speaker to do the same thing.

    Next I found a used cab that took the same size speaker(s) and was the dimension that my rig requires.

    Then I put the premium speaker in the inexpensive used cabinet.

    Upgrade from there.

    It's a mutt.

    a frankencab.

    Lot's of musicians do this.

    And it's a way to make your own cab.

    You also get an upclose look at how these cabs are put together.
     
  12. fdeck

    fdeck Supporting Member Commercial User

    Mar 20, 2004
    Madison WI
    HPF Technology LLC
    This is an important point, because it means that you have to factor in the cost and time commitment involved in getting it right on your second or third try. You can see from my related post that a lot of us who think we understand things have one or two expensive drivers lying around from designs that proved not to be gig-worthy. OTOH, the 2x12 design described by bgavin in the other thread looks good and comes from a respectable source.
     
  13. ESP-LTD

    ESP-LTD

    Sep 9, 2001
    Idaho
    A lot of folk assume that if it has a 15" hole in the front, that any 15" speaker you install will 'work'. While it may accept current and provide some kind of sound, the diameter of the speaker is only one of many considerations that effect how the final product sounds.

    Most rigs work with any 3-dimensional cabinet that is of compatible impedance; I expect 2-dimentional ones would be pretty directional :D
     
  14. Linas

    Linas

    Jan 6, 2005
    Chicago
    Does anyone know how much the omni 10 costs for materials?
     
  15. Here is the parts list for the Omni 10

    ½” Plywood, one sheet per cabinet
    1” and 1.25” drywall screws
    Urethane construction adhesive
    Ten-inch woofers
    Model 1016 piezo tweeters (optional)
    Speaker carpet and 3M Super 77 Adhesive or Dura-Tex speaker coating
    Cabinet Corners/screws
    Handles/screws or bolts & T nuts.
    Cabinet Lining materials
    Pet Screen
    Speaker Wire
    Speaker Jack (s)
    PA Pole Top Hat (optional)

    I pay $26 per sheet for 1/2" baltic birch. You will most likely need two sheets. I am laying out a wide-body version of the O10 (24" vs 20") and I require two sheets.

    If you build from a quality (read: not Home Depot) 1/2" 5-ply, you can make do with a single 4x8 sheet. Hardware is available from www.partsexpress.com for reasonable prices. Nuts and bolts are available locally.

    I pay about $2.87 for a tube of PL Premium Polyurethane adhesive. This is *the* adhesive of choice. Messy, requires rubber gloves to prevent welding adhesive to skin, but perfect for speaker cabs. It produces Iron Man joints that do not fail or leak.

    The O10 can be built entirely with a hand circular saw and jig saw. The plans are very comprehensive and written for the newbie.
     
  16. I dunno about respectable...

    :D

    But... when I offer it up, it will have full measurements. Unless it sucks. Then it will never be released.

    Sacramento is a big area, so I shouldn't have any difficulty lining up various commercial cabs for testing and measuring. I have access to Chelsea's (www.aroarah.com) D410XLT anytime they are not on the road, plus my son-in-law's Ampeg 610HLF. It would be worth the daily rental fee on an Accugroove, just to get it into the database.
     
  17. oldfclefer

    oldfclefer low ended

    May 5, 2005
    Southern Ohio
    The point I was making is that you should gather some hands-on experience with cabinets i.e. disassembling and assembling, inspecting the interior(s), taking note of what fasteners are used, electronic hookups, you know, study up before you take the advice of a lot of know-it-alls who'll have you building birch cabs when you have no experience in the field at all.

    Loading one cab with another speaker is nothing new.
    Many times it's the only practical why to figure out what works and what doesn't.
     
  18. yamaha

    yamaha

    Apr 7, 2006
    Montreal
    I've also built a 115 JBL equipped cab. I talked to a sound engeneer about the ports, and the dimensions were close to most cab companies measurements 23 X 23 X 18. I love the sound, and it was really to be able to use the JBL 2226 I already had. If I did not have a speaker already, I would definately buy already built pro cabs. I think store cabinet prices vs speaker, wood, hardware, paint, corners, time is not an advantage. But I did have fun building mine, It sounds good (better than many), and i'm rather proud of it.
     
  19. Linas

    Linas

    Jan 6, 2005
    Chicago
    Can you guys compare the Omni 10, or 12 to any commercial cab out there? Also right now i own a 2x10, and i like the speakers fast response. Will i notice much of a decrease with the 12" in the omni 12?
     
  20. billfitzmaurice

    billfitzmaurice Commercial User

    Sep 15, 2004
    New Hampshire
    Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
    That's a question you should ask of people who have them, which would best be accomplished here:
    http://www.audioroundtable.com/BillFitzmaurice/
     

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