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Idea solicitation: preamp configuration and knob placement

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by .matthew e wengerd., Jul 18, 2005.

  1. mods: I'm not 100% sure this is the right forum...move if necessary, please.

    Every day, I am getting closer to having my Eshenbaugh BF6 completed! I want to get some opinions on preamp/knob configurations. As many of you know, Jay at BHB secured this gorgeous Koa top for me:

    It is a given that the knobs will be koa over ebony (the koa will be from the top stock). It is also a given that the hardware (switches) will be black and that the EQ will be three band. Other than that, I'm up for opinions.

    Roger at THG has agreed to do a custom stacked knob with a consistent diameter as such:

    I am planning a stacked treb/bass knob, but when I visited Mark this week, he got excited about a bunch of ideas including a rotary coil tap knob (bridge series - neck parallel, neck series, bridge parallel etc) and a bunch of other things.

    My thoughts thus far have been push/pull active/passive vol, blend, mid, bass/treb, coil taps, 3-way mid selector, and passive tone.

    Additionally, should the jack be top- or side-facing?

    Please post photoshops if possible. What would you get and how would you lay it out?

    Before anyone starts with "This is your bass, you should know how you want it....," I'm pretty open. I just want tonal options here while maintaining an eye for the aesthetic beauty of this instrument.

    Thanks in advance!
  2. Wilbyman


    Sep 10, 2003
    Parkersburg, WV
    I like the Nordy knob layout with the knobs following the body contour. I just think it makes the whole instrument flow better. I also like the switch placement on Leo's Nordy...however, I prefer the jack facing front without a doubt. It's tough to play sitting cross-legged on the floor with the jack on the side.

  3. Bryan R. Tyler

    Bryan R. Tyler TalkBass: Usurping My Practice Time Since 2002 Staff Member Administrator Gold Supporting Member

    May 3, 2002
    I agree- Elrick basses have their knobs following the body curve as well, and I find them very easy to locate and they also compliment the curve of the singlecut.

    I always prefer the jack on the side though. It looks better (less of the top gets hidden), and I always use a right-angled plug into my bass so playing seated isn't a problem.

    Flip this picture sideways for the best view:
  4. Wilbyman


    Sep 10, 2003
    Parkersburg, WV
    Right angle plug...oh yeah...LOL. Man, I feel kind of stupid right now.
  5. Bump for some help here. Any photoshoppers want to offer up some ideas?
  6. Wilbyman


    Sep 10, 2003
    Parkersburg, WV
    You want concentrics, so that leaves out the ever-so-cool Fodera setup, as seen on MP's old Nordy:

    PS, I love the look of this bass.

  7. truth be told, about the only thing I like on the electronics side is the placement of the jack. I'm thinking of a curved design like a lot of the other Nordies, but where would a front-facing jack go on a top like that?
  8. Wilbyman


    Sep 10, 2003
    Parkersburg, WV
    If you're using concentrics, it sounds like you'll only have 4-5 knobs or so. Just put it where the bottom knob is on Leo's Nordy (above).
  9. Furthest "south" or closest to the bridge?
  10. Wilbyman


    Sep 10, 2003
    Parkersburg, WV
    Now that you mention it, right next to the bridge would be kind of weird because you'd be reaching over the jack to get to the lower knobs. I dunno. I'd say that knob layout would be best with a side jack.
  11. knobs.

    I emailed this to Jay for forwarding to Mark. I've always liked this layout that Chis has used. The big white dot is the possible front-jack. The more I think about it, the more I think I may go with a side-jack. Keep in mind, the bass will have a floating bridge, so there will be no busy-ness in the bridge area, allowing me to get a little more complicated in the preamp area. Thoughts?
  12. If you're doing a two pickup bass have one 5-way switch

    100 Neck - 0 Bridge

    75 Neck - 25 Bridge

    50 Neck - 50 Bridge

    25 Neck - 75 Bridge

    0 Neck - 100 Bridge

    No pots....no tone, no volume

    If you use a pre-amp, have it only set up as a unity gain...

    Don't wreck the wood...let the amp do the work...

  13. I know a lot of people are into that, but I'm pretty happy with Mark's pre and am more than confident that I can get what I want with it. I actually even thought about a sweepable mid, but even I know when enough is enough.

    BTW - the two small dots are a series/parallel/single tap and a mid-selector switch.
  14. Akito


    Dec 1, 2003
    Just for fun
    33088462_3c4a819943_m. 33088461_16963fb2ec. 33088460_f2bbdde96a_m.
  15. JPJ


    Apr 21, 2001
    Chicago, IL
    Not that my vote counts or anything :p , but I think that either the Nordstrand-inspired layout OR the Benavente-inspired layout would be great. I've spent a lot of time playing basses with those two layouts and they both work extremely well, in my opinion. ;)
  16. I think I like Akito's layout on the far left...you can never have too many knobby's
  17. Akito


    Dec 1, 2003
    Funny how if you stare at the grain long enough you begin to detect patterns. Sort of like one of those old magic eye pictures.

  18. JPJ


    Apr 21, 2001
    Chicago, IL
    ...I see a butterfly! :D
  19. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    I also think that the control knobs would look great following the curve of the body. I did that on my Gecko fretless I put together and really like it. I'd also recommend that you use an electro-socket type input jack on the side. It allows the use of a standard 1/4" jack and would eleminate the potential of ripping the jack out of the face of the instrument. Definitely stay away from the barrel jacks in the side (very high maintenance).
  20. Akito got me in the GIMP mood (open-source PS). Here's what I'm imagining...ish.