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Installed Aguilar OBP3 today

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by JOME77, Mar 22, 2004.


  1. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    Georgia
    I finally got tired of all of the noise and harsh highs of my G&L so I installed an Aguilar OBP3 in it today. I've heard some say that they thought that the Aguilar pre's were a little noisy but compared to the G&L pre it's real quite. The slap tone is much better and the addition of the Mid control opened up the door to some real nice tones. The highs sound much better (more hi-fi sounding) and the pre's capable of much more defined lows. The pre seems pretty hot but it may just be the G&L P/U's. I wired the P/U's parallel since I didn't have room for the series/parallel sw. I think that I'll play it for a while and see how I like it. I can always drill another hole & install a 4th sw but I'm afraid that another sw would make things look real clutered.
     
  2. jivetkr

    jivetkr

    May 15, 2002
    NJ
    Whats the knob set up? Did you have to drill anymore holes?
     
  3. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    Georgia
    The bass was a G&L L-1505 and I added a neck P/U so I had to drill a hole to install the P/U selector sw. When I installed the Aguilar I wanted to install the blend control but there just was not room (without the controls looking clutered) so I kept the mini-P/U selector sw. and went with the master Vol, Mid, & Bass/Treble on a concentric. The switches are P/U select, Mid ctr freq sw, and active/passive. I may add a single/double coil or paralle/series sw later. I'll attach a pic of the front of the bass.
     
  4. jivetkr

    jivetkr

    May 15, 2002
    NJ
    In case you are interested. I think you could probably get a stacked vol/blend pot. I have one on my warwick. If you check with one of the parts websites...they should be able to hook you up.
     
  5. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    Georgia
    That might would work since the Vol pot for the G&L P/U's is 250K and the Blend ctrl with the Aguilar is also 250k (the wiring diagram with the Aguilar states that the ohm value of the Vol and Blend pot is dependent on the type P/U's used). I could replace the P/U selector sw with the parallel/series sw.
    Good idea! I'll have to see if I can find one.
     
  6. jivetkr

    jivetkr

    May 15, 2002
    NJ
    I had this preamp installed in an old bass of mine & due to lack of holes & no desire to drill, I used a push/pull pot for the mid. In the down position it was 400hz & up was 800hz. The only downside was that there is no center detent, but it really never bothered me.

    If I was going to install this in another bass I would go for the mid sweep option. I think its the last page of the wiring diagram on aguilars website. That diagram is NOT included with the preamp.
     
  7. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    Georgia
    I've got the same Mid pot in my Roscoes (50K) but they do have the center detent. I guess that I could use that in lieu of the current micro-sw for Mids (that would give me room for the parallel/series sw). I'm still not sure if I really need the P/S sw. I guess that I need to play it out a few times and see how it goes (although I am considering trading the bass for a Gecko 5).
     
  8. sheepdog

    sheepdog

    Feb 20, 2003
    Birmingham, AL
    from your current setup, you should be able to use a push/pull volume knob to allow for series/parallel switching

    or

    vol/vol, bass/treble, mid/mid frequ pots with series/parallel/single coil(optional 3rd choice) neck pup, series/parallel bridge pup/singe coil(optional 3rd choice), active/passive switches. Only decision here is having a 2 way or 3 way switch for the pups.

    just a thought...for flexibility, I would try #2
     
  9. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    Georgia
    I think I will try the Vol pot with the push/pull. I have a 250K with a DPDT sw that should work. The G&L uses a 3P2P Sw. (9 pin) with their parallel/series circuit. Apparently in series they ground one coil for each P/U to ground with a capacitor in series (to ground). Maybe to lessen the potential for a "pop" when the sw. is used. It should work with the DPDT.
     
  10. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    Georgia
    I installed the new Vol push/pull pot and it works great. I went with the wiring that provides either both P/U's wired in series or both P/U's in a single coil configuration . It provides some good useable sounds.
     
  11. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    Georgia
    Well I played the G&L out on a couple of gigs this weekend and although it sounded much better with the Aguilar pre, the P/U's area still just too hot for my taste. :meh: I guess I just don't fit into the G&L club! :crying: I've posted the bass for sale or trade but I figured while I waited for a deal to develop I'd try one more change. I ordered a couple Bart soapbar P/U's. Hopefully that will warm it up and smooth out the sound. :hyper: If that doesn't convince me to keep the bass, I'll put the MFD P/U's back in, sell it, and use the Bart's for a Gecko project I have planned.
     
  12. JOME77 you must REALLY like the feel of that bass to go through all the modifying you have/will have done. I tweak a bit but can't imagine going to that extreme on one particular bass.

    In 1980 I bought a new G&L L-2000 and played it exclusively for ~12 years and no one could sell me on another bass. But as my taste mellowed I also found it to be a bit harsh. I have since sold it but would still like one back in the collection cuz I do miss it at times. Replacing the MFD's w/Barts will almost certainly warm you up - there's nothing like the bright attack of the G&L MFD's.

    Hope you like the results.
     
  13. JOME77

    JOME77 Supporting Member

    Aug 18, 2002
    Georgia
    I installed the Bartolini 72M45C pickups this weekend. They really warmed up the sound of the bass. I wired the volume push/pull pot so that I get either both P/U's in series or the outer single coils of each P/U (great J bass sound). Much cleaner sound. I guess that I'll play the bass at a few gigs this week to see how it really sounds. Here's a picture of the bass now.