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Installing Wall Hangers

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by MobileHolmes, Mar 20, 2017.


  1. MobileHolmes

    MobileHolmes I used to be BassoP Supporting Member

    Nov 4, 2006
    Iowa
    Apologies if this isn't the right forum, mods feel free to move...

    So I've decided to rearrange the funk lab and want to hang all my basses and guitars (12) on the wall. I don't have enough stands, they stands are in the way, etc. I just ordered a few String Swings to check for fit before I get going (the regular ones are cheapest through sweetwater, but I'm not sure if they will fit my 6s or acoustic. String swing has spcialty models for these on their website if needed, but are more expensive).

    I have a mounting tweak, and am curious if this would work-

    I'd like to do two staggered rows, to more efficiently fit everything in. The rub with this is that I can't get everything into the studs that way. So I was thinking of installing 2 1x6s screwed into the studs (say 6 feet each), and mounting the hangers to these. The only concern I have is that, when mounting the hangers, they are only screwing into a little less than an inch of wood. Is that enough to hold them? It's in a basement, and I actually have access to the back of the wall, so I suppose I could put a 2x4 on the back of the wall to reinforce, but I"m not sure if that is necessary or not. Thoughts? Concerns?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Jeff Scott

    Jeff Scott Don't just TalkBASS - PlayBASS! Supporting Member

    You can do it either way but as you have access to the backside of the wall I would put 1x blocking (1x4, 1x6)there so it has a clean look on the frontside of the wall. Like this that we are doing for the wainscoting in the dining room (we did the same on other rooms for hanging cabinets and other heavy items.

    East Wall-CU-1200_1176.

    Put the blocking against the backside of the drywall and toenail them into the studs. In our case we nailed them in flush with the front face of the studs before installing the drywall.

    Stagger them up and down the wall as desired. 1x is plenty enough. Here is our rug hanger I made that has 1x6 blocking on the backside of the drywall, in three places (the ends and the middle of the rug hanger. The rug hanger is two pieces of 1" x 4" x 7' cherry and is fairly heavy.

    Rug-Hanger-Wall-Cropped-1200_0678.

    Hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017
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  3. justbass57

    justbass57 Supporting Member

    • If you have the access, I would prefer using a 2 x 4, either on it's side or flat against the drywall, then you can nail or screw easily into the 2 x 4 through the studs (I just prefer this method to toe nailing into a 1" dim. thickness towards the drywall).
     
    DavC likes this.
  4. mark beem

    mark beem I'm alive and well. Where am I? Gold Supporting Member

    Jul 20, 2001
    New Hope, Alabama
    This is what I did (think I used 1X4s though) and it's held for several years (installed in 2013) with no problems.

    931248_10200951028287453_2091114702_n.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017
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  5. MobileHolmes

    MobileHolmes I used to be BassoP Supporting Member

    Nov 4, 2006
    Iowa
    Thanks!
     
  6. MD

    MD

    Nov 7, 2000
    Marin Co. CA.
    Why are you limiting yourself here?
    2x6s into studs, room side.
    2x6,8,10, or pretty much anything you want in the stud bays on the open side. Toenail top/bottom corners into studs. Done.
    And, you can stagger the height of your rear blocking if desired.
     
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  7. MobileHolmes

    MobileHolmes I used to be BassoP Supporting Member

    Nov 4, 2006
    Iowa
    That is perfect, and I think exactly what I'll do. I can just run some 2x4s between the studs on the back to give the screws some extra bite.
     
    Jeff Scott likes this.
  8. BruceWane

    BruceWane

    Oct 31, 2002
    Houston, TX
    No harm in thoroughly supporting your hangers; your 1x6 plan is WAY more than enough. You could safely hang a couple hundred pounds from that.

    For the weight of a guitar, securing a neck-hang bracket with a pair of 1/4" toggle bolts through sheetrock is entirely adequate and safe. But you definitely want toggle bolts, the metal spring-loaded wing type things that pop open behind the sheetrock. 1/4" toggle bolts in 1/2" sheetrock are rated for ~70 pounds.

    I've got 6 basses and a guitar hung like this, and they're completely solid and secure under normal use. I don't just, like, drop my basses into any stand, whether wall mounted or floor-standing.

    Do not use any of the plastic wall anchors - not the expanding type, and not the type that "self-thread" into sheetrock. I wouldn't use those for anything heavier than a pound or two.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017
    joebar and MobileHolmes like this.
  9. MobileHolmes

    MobileHolmes I used to be BassoP Supporting Member

    Nov 4, 2006
    Iowa
    That's exactly what I want to do. Do you recall what the spacing is between your hangers? I'm trying to figure out if I can make this scheme work based on the size of my room and the other stuff that is in there. I have one nice long interior wall, but it is also where my amps live, etc so I have a finite amount of space.
     
  10. mark beem

    mark beem I'm alive and well. Where am I? Gold Supporting Member

    Jul 20, 2001
    New Hope, Alabama
    I don't remember but I can measure it when I get home this evening.
     
    MobileHolmes likes this.
  11. MobileHolmes

    MobileHolmes I used to be BassoP Supporting Member

    Nov 4, 2006
    Iowa
    If It's not too much trouble, I'd really appreciate it!
     
    penguineman likes this.
  12. mark beem

    mark beem I'm alive and well. Where am I? Gold Supporting Member

    Jul 20, 2001
    New Hope, Alabama
    :thumbsup:
     
  13. johnson79

    johnson79

    Jan 8, 2010
    Lancaster, PA
    I used some heavy toggle bolts behind each hanger and then installed the hangers after the oak board was on the wall.
    There is some paneling behind the drywall; I had no way of finding the studs. It's very secure.
    basses.JPG
     
    MobileHolmes likes this.
  14. Bullitt5135

    Bullitt5135

    Nov 16, 2010
    SE Michigan
    I'll add that I always use wood screws instead of drywall screws on my wall hangers. The wood screws are beefier and less likely to sheer off, IMO.

    Visual reference
     
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  15. Lo-E

    Lo-E

    Dec 19, 2009
    Brooklyn, NY
    I ended up using String Swing's rail system that they market to music stores. It's comprised of hardwood (poplar) moldings that capture aluminum tracks. The whole deal is anchored to the studs using long sheet metal screws (it came supplied w/ #6 but I used longer, stainless steel #8).

    It's extremely secure and I can easily slide the hangers around to where I want them.

    In your case I would definitely use the piece of lumber on the back of the wall as added security. The weight of several basses on the ends of those hangers could certainly cause a piece of 1x to warp, especially pine, if it's mounted on the front.
     
    MobileHolmes likes this.
  16. Plectrum72

    Plectrum72 Supporting Member

    I used a pine 1x 6 stained to match the wood furniture I have in my music room. Mounted the 1 x 6 to the studs, and hung the wall hangers from the board using wood screws. It currently holds 6 instruments without issue. If you're 1x4 is mounted to the studs and you use wood screws to mount your wall hangers, you'll be fine. Anything above and beyond that is unnecessary, but if it gives you peace of mind, have at it. :)

    **Edited to add: If you use 2 screws to mount your 1 x4 at every stud it crosses, you will be fine. The gravitational force on a handful of basses on essentially a 4" lever (wall hanger) is not nearly enough force to overcome the friction of the screws mounting the board to the studs (or individual wall hangers to the board).
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017
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  17. Roland GR 88

    Roland GR 88

    Sep 16, 2013
    Toronto
    If you're worried about a hanger screw biting into 3/4" of wood just add some PL2000 and they'll never come off.
     
  18. Chasarms

    Chasarms Casual Observer

    May 24, 2001
    Bettendorf, IA USA
    The added benefit of using a wooden rail attached at the studs rather than reinforcing the behind the drywall is that you end up putting FAR fewer holes through the drywall. Sure you want 12 basses on the wall right now, but if you choose otherwise or want/need to sell the home, you have 36 holes to repair (12x3) verses six or eight if you mount a rail and attach to the rail. It also extends the instruments a little further from the wall, making it a little less likely that you clang them into the wall when you hang them.
     
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  19. Wfrance3

    Wfrance3

    May 29, 2014
    Tulsa, OK
    I have 5 of mine on the wall and it looks similar to the pic provided by mark beem above. Has been that way for over 2 years now. I don't recall off the top of my head what I used, but I believe it's 1x6. I picked a harder wood because I felt that would be more substantial. I think it's 7' long. I hit every stud I could with 3 screws. Once it was up I installed the guitar holders. It's good, does not move, creak or do anything suspicious.
     
    Plectrum72 likes this.
  20. JoeWPgh

    JoeWPgh

    Dec 21, 2012
    Ix6 or 1x4 will be more than enough, if attached to each stud. It's not just about the "beefiness" of the board, but it's span, which is likely all of 16 inches. At that span, a 1x4 would support an SVT (not that I'd do that) There's nothing wrong with backing behind the drywall. That would allow the use of a longer screw. If that lets you sleep better at night, then do it. I would spring for clear (or select) pine as opposed to construction grade #2. It will take paint or stain better, and you won't have to worry about knots, which can be a fail point in that application. But it also depends on your room's decor. If your moldings are oak, I'd probably use oak. If you plan on painting it, clear pine.
     
    BrBss likes this.